Chain Case Failure?

[sk-rx1]

Cars are recalled all the time when something is detected that can cause a vehicle to slow unexpectedly. It's considered a serious safety hazard if it was to happen in traffic. Imagine riding in a line of 5 or 6 sleds at say 50-60 mph and having the sled ahead of you suddenly come out of gear. Of course these are not cars, and the manufacturers are clearly not as concerned with these things. I wonder who is legally responsible, AC or Yamaha?

 

[moremilesray]

I started this thread and here is what they said," it came out of gear". Why, we don't know yet. It damaged two gears, replaced same and it's running again. Put on over 800 miles on a trip and it has been running ok. Waiting for Yamaha to come up with a answer and a permanent fix. It's no fun wondering if/when it will fall out of gear again.

 

[freelance]

F*#k it !!

I got 0 Miles on my XTX. Been sick for 3 weeks and it's been -34 C with a winchchill of -51 C. All this reading is making me nervous.

F*#k that !!

I got a 200 + mile ride planned for Saturday. I'm just gonna get on it and ride and let my 3 year warranty take care of any failures !!

I'm done reading......I'm going riding !!!

I'll let you know how it works out !!

 

[cannondale27]

Thats what I have been doing every weekend lately. No regrets. Ride it like you stole it! Make anything that may happen worth it. You are going to have a blast!

 

[TLiddicoat]

Just have to chime in on this chaincase issue. I went into the dealership to take a close look at the viper to possibly trade up. There are 2 key factors that stood out to me and maybe make the case I made to the dealership after reading these posts. I saw a HUGE problem with where the brake was mounted. Why on earth would they mount it on the clutch side of the driveshaft? You have power transfering from the secondary through the jackshaft into the chaincase and onto the driveshaft only to be stopped at the last possible point. To me, there is a lot of built up energy here transfering through the chaincase. If you have all the torque piling up and stop it with the brake at the end of the driveshaft, the chaincases components are taking up a huge amount of the energy and with the length of chain they used, thats doomed to be the weak point. What do you guys think?

 

[NOS-PRO]

The brake is mounted on the drive axle as that is the best place for it. I asphalt race and ice drag race, they are recommending a brake be installed on the drive axle for safety if the chain would happen to break. I've seen too many instances and close calls.

The reason for in on the left side is to balance weight evenly I would guess....not to mention probably for room.

freelance - Just pull your exhaust, tighten up your chain and you will be fine.

 

[DeerHuntr]

The chaincase shouldn't be under much if any load when you're on the brake, it should be free wheeling at that point unless you left the parking brake on. To me I like the Idea of having the brake on the drive shaft vs the jack shaft because if you do shell out the chaincase you still have brakes. I do however wish it was isolated a little more. We all know what kind of hell can happen when you blow a belt and it's just sitting there pretty much open to the belt. Glad to see we aren't having belt issues, it was one of my biggest concerns going in given the problems cat has had keeping belts on this chassis.

 

[Sportsterdanne]

What about all the force from the rotating track thats being stopped through the chain when you have the brake on the secondary shaft, alot more built up energy there.
It makes more sense to have the brake on the drive shaft and a busted chain wont make you loose the brake.
Ski doo have the same brake setup with a even longer chain.

Just have to chime in on this chaincase issue. I went into the dealership to take a close look at the viper to possibly trade up. There are 2 key factors that stood out to me and maybe make the case I made to the dealership after reading these posts. I saw a HUGE problem with where the brake was mounted. Why on earth would they mount it on the clutch side of the driveshaft? You have power transfering from the secondary through the jackshaft into the chaincase and onto the driveshaft only to be stopped at the last possible point. To me, there is a lot of built up energy here transfering through the chaincase. If you have all the torque piling up and stop it with the brake at the end of the driveshaft, the chaincases components are taking up a huge amount of the energy and with the length of chain they used, thats doomed to be the weak point. What do you guys think?

 

[berge75]

Heres some FYI on these chain cases.
There is not a timing procedure when installing the accuator motor. The acccuator will spin into foward every time you turn the key on start up.
The reverse gear is tied to the shaft via spline which it has to slide back and forth to engage the foward top gear, which idles on the drive shaft. The teeth on the two gears are very fine and once it grines the will not slide together properly, and will pop out of gear and so on.
What it see is that if there are any burrs or roughness on the shaft splines the gear will not slide properly.
IF there is alot of belt tension, there will be pressure on the drive shaft not allowing the gear to slide all the way into gear. Rock the sled side to side when going into forward it will help shift better. Holding the brake will not help since the brake is holding the track drive.

 

[TLiddicoat]

I do understand it from a safety standpoint but still feel that the force coming through from the secondary is greater than that of the track. The track will lock up on snow and just slide and the energy being transfered from the secondary will definitely travel through the chaincase putting stress on the chain no matter what the track is doing. So in essense, you could be coming to a panic stop with the brake applied, track sliding, and give it throttle with the track still locked up. What will this be doing to the chaincase and chain? I understand that the belt may slip and you will probably start smelling it, but this action repeated will definitely stress that silent chain. Also, has there been anything verified that tightening the chain a little will prevent failure?

What about all the force from the rotating track thats being stopped through the chain when you have the brake on the secondary shaft, alot more built up energy there.
It makes more sense to have the brake on the drive shaft and a busted chain wont make you loose the brake.
Ski doo have the same brake setup with a even longer chain.

Just have to chime in on this chaincase issue. I went into the dealership to take a close look at the viper to possibly trade up. There are 2 key factors that stood out to me and maybe make the case I made to the dealership after reading these posts. I saw a HUGE problem with where the brake was mounted. Why on earth would they mount it on the clutch side of the driveshaft? You have power transfering from the secondary through the jackshaft into the chaincase and onto the driveshaft only to be stopped at the last possible point. To me, there is a lot of built up energy here transfering through the chaincase. If you have all the torque piling up and stop it with the brake at the end of the driveshaft, the chaincases components are taking up a huge amount of the energy and with the length of chain they used, thats doomed to be the weak point. What do you guys think?

 

[cannondale27]

I agree with you but as long as the components can take the stress its fine. As far as I have read there have been NO failures of the chains or even gears. The problem is getting caught between the gears.

 

[freelance]

Well.....add my XTX to the list of chaincase failures. It never ever jumped out of gear....had no issues with reverse. Other than a few small jumps and a couple of wheelies, I absolutely babied this machine through the break-in period.

At around the 370 mile mark on the odometer I heard a ratcheting sound that I thought was coming from under the tunnel. Assumed that the track had stretched and that it was loose.

Took it to the dealer today. Not sure if I got all the info correct cuz as the story unfolded my knees buckled and I was sick to my stomach.

Apparrently my chain tensioning bolt fell completely out and all the chaincase oil leaked out of the chaincase. Gears and chain are apparently ok but due to the heat build up, the chaincase is all burnt and melted and now the sled will require a brand new chaincase. I did not see any oil leaking, none on the side of the sled, none underneath the sled in my trailer or on the garage floor. Mechanic couldn't find any either until he discovered it was all pooled up in the belly pan under the engine. The one part on the sled I was so worried about and sure enough it failed. Going in tomorrow to look at it and take some pictures. They assure me that warranty will cover it. I certainly hope so as I did the engine break-in by the book and was taking it in today for it's first service.

The toughest part is that my dealership has no parts to fix it and it could be 3-4 weeks before I get the sled back. I'm so sick I could puke.

And what will really make you guys all puke is that for the next 4 weeks I have to pull out the old reliable Arctic Cat so I can still ride. Not bashing but have 4000+ trouble free miles on my 2011 Z1.

I'm completely deflated. After falling in love for the 2 first rides, the third ride leaves me feeling like I've been kicked in the groin. At least it didn't leave me stranded.

 

[STAIN]

Did you check or adjust your chain at all before this?

 

[freelance]

Did you check or adjust your chain at all before this?

No.....why would I ??

Despite what is being said on these forums I expected that the machine would come from the factory, through my dealership and PDI, ready to ride like it should be.

I rode it 3 times.....by the book.........and at 383 miles it was going in for it's first service and adjustments......... just like the manual says.

Unfortunately, it didn't make it as far as the manufacturer's specs says it should.

Are u suggesting that the muffler should be removed after every ride (no gaskets available by the way) and the chain tensioner checked or maybe I should have done this before I rode it for the first time ?? Would you tear apart your truck engine as soon as you drove it off the lot to make sure all was well from the assembly line ??

Where does it start......where does it end ?? What am I paying for ?? Do I need to service it at 0 miles ??

I'm sorry....your question irritates me.

 

[sgauthier]

that sucks but after hearing all of these issue with the chain adjustments you should have taken it back to the dealer ASAP before even riding it or after 100 miles or so. i know it's not you're fault but now your unable to ride for 3-4 weeks and a little preventive maintainence on you're part would have saved you a lot of frustration. i know it sucks and I agree with you that it should have been ready to roll right from the dealer. there has been posts about this since Dec. i don't own one (this is the reason why, not bashing, but there are always issues with first year models) but i know i would have taken it right back to the dealer ASAP to have it checlked out after reading all of this for almost a month.

sucks big time.