

Turboflash
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#1 - IMO, NEVER hit the clutch bolt with a hammer. If your primary won't come loose with your puller, use the grease/oil method to get it off.
#2 - my bearing had moved in housing. To date, I have never heard of a stub shaft moving in bearing; always bearing moving in housing. Not saying it couldn't happen but I haven't seen/heard of it yet.
#3 - I warmed up the housing with a heat gun and once it got hot enough (150+ degF?) it came right out. Cleaned everything very well. Put stub and bearing in freezer, again heated the housing up, applied green loctite to housing, and a little on bearing, it dropped right into the housing. No pressing needed.
#4 - always check your clutch alignment after doing this. I had to re-shim my secondary outward.
#2 - my bearing had moved in housing. To date, I have never heard of a stub shaft moving in bearing; always bearing moving in housing. Not saying it couldn't happen but I haven't seen/heard of it yet.
#3 - I warmed up the housing with a heat gun and once it got hot enough (150+ degF?) it came right out. Cleaned everything very well. Put stub and bearing in freezer, again heated the housing up, applied green loctite to housing, and a little on bearing, it dropped right into the housing. No pressing needed.
#4 - always check your clutch alignment after doing this. I had to re-shim my secondary outward.
Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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custom
#1 - IMO, NEVER hit the clutch bolt with a hammer. If your primary won't come loose with your puller, use the grease/oil method to get it off.
#2 - my bearing had moved in housing. To date, I have never heard of a stub shaft moving in bearing; always bearing moving in housing. Not saying it couldn't happen but I haven't seen/heard of it yet.
#3 - I warmed up the housing with a heat gun and once it got hot enough (150+ degF?) it came right out. Cleaned everything very well. Put stub and bearing in freezer, again heated the housing up, applied green loctite to housing, and a little on bearing, it dropped right into the housing. No pressing needed.
#4 - always check your clutch alignment after doing this. I had to re-shim my secondary outward.
On my sled, both had moved.
stub shaft ~1mm and the bearing ~ 2mm (exact total movement is 2,85mm IN)
i suspect it was not perfectly bottom in ... right from factory . After putting it back where it should be, i have ad 1mm shim behind secondary.
SideHogger
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Turboflash, I think some guy's hammer while guys like me TAP! Lol.#1 - IMO, NEVER hit the clutch bolt with a hammer. If your primary won't come loose with your puller, use the grease/oil method to get it off.
#2 - my bearing had moved in housing. To date, I have never heard of a stub shaft moving in bearing; always bearing moving in housing. Not saying it couldn't happen but I haven't seen/heard of it yet.
#3 - I warmed up the housing with a heat gun and once it got hot enough (150+ degF?) it came right out. Cleaned everything very well. Put stub and bearing in freezer, again heated the housing up, applied green loctite to housing, and a little on bearing, it dropped right into the housing. No pressing needed.
#4 - always check your clutch alignment after doing this. I had to re-shim my secondary outward.

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View attachment 156704
On my sled, both had moved.
stub shaft ~1mm and the bearing ~ 2mm (exact total movement is 2,85mm IN)
i suspect it was not perfectly bottom in ... right from factory . After putting it back where it should be, i have ad 1mm shim behind secondary.
View attachment 156704
Ditto, some are moving on both the shaft and housing.
Here is a quick tip.....take your clutch bolt, find a socket that the primary bolt slips through, thread the primary bolt in and use the socket as a small slide hammer....works slick.

- Joined
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- www.thunderproductsclutching.com
#1 - IMO, NEVER hit the clutch bolt with a hammer. If your primary won't come loose with your puller, use the grease/oil method to get it off.
#2 - my bearing had moved in housing. To date, I have never heard of a stub shaft moving in bearing; always bearing moving in housing. Not saying it couldn't happen but I haven't seen/heard of it yet.
#3 - I warmed up the housing with a heat gun and once it got hot enough (150+ degF?) it came right out. Cleaned everything very well. Put stub and bearing in freezer, again heated the housing up, applied green loctite to housing, and a little on bearing, it dropped right into the housing. No pressing needed.
#4 - always check your clutch alignment after doing this. I had to re-shim my secondary outward.
Very good tips here!


Geeze that’s all it takes!Ditto, some are moving on both the shaft and housing.
Here is a quick tip.....take your clutch bolt, find a socket that the primary bolt slips through, thread the primary bolt in and use the socket as a small slide hammer....works slick.
johan
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i had problems with this to on my viper, i used loctite 270 to lock it in place and it has never moved after that
it will be little of a pain to get it a part when i change bearing but little heat and a good press it will come apart.



I am buying a new bottle of loctite green mines pretty old and this makes me nervous!
SledFreak
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Bringing this back to the top! TEAM CLUTCHES. I noticed a lot of heat in my clutches after new exhaust and tune! Check my offset on my TCAT and it should be 62.5mm. Well mine was at 67mm. So I pulled shims right out of the secondary in between the sheaves. I got it better but only 2mm which gave me 64mm. So I talked to Yamamarc and he said to remove the primary clutch and look at the stub shaft. So I did and it looks like it has moved! Is this thing easy to remove or should I just try the slide hammer trick with the clutch bolt. Is anything go to come flying apart if I pull it apart? Oil leaking out the case? I am just not sure the slide hammer trick will move the shaft and bearing if they both need to be done! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
NYTurbo
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Remove assembly and do it right. Oil won't come out
SledFreak
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Do I have to worry about anything when re-installing?
Fords4life
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Stub shaft has a flat inside on splines that lines up with crankshaft as i remember, press bearing onto stub shaft tight, then press stub shaft assembly into retaining housing flush towards clutch side, i used green bearing retaining compound on both inside and outside of bearing. Also i uesed this bearing which is much tighter on tolerance than oem. This bearing took away much of the sidewinder clutch rattle or chatter we hear, bearing supplier said its good to 10000 rpm and grease was in temp range of what i figured the clutch area would see.
Attachments


STAIN
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Really? That would be pretty cool. You may have just found a cure to a source of frustration here on these forums that has been around since the 3cylinder 4stroke came out.bearing took away much of the sidewinder clutch rattle or chatter we hear
I wonder if the weight of that bearing is more than the stocker.
where did you order it?
Fords4life
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Went to my local bearing supply house we went thru some of his bearings on hand, china, japan, and i settled on the skf made in america!! Cost me about 40 bucks a piece, installed one in my cat 9000 and one in my sidewinder, night and day diffrence in clutch chatter for me, wrked well so far, all last season and one trip this season. Oh ya he had these in stock on shelf so they should be common.Really? That would be pretty cool. You may have just found a cure to a source of frustration here on these forums that has been around since the 3cylinder 4stroke came out.
I wonder if the weight of that bearing is more than the stocker.
where did you order it?
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
Please post manufacturer and part number
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