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Right on yamamarc!
aquaticlaker
Extreme
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- SIDEWINDER L‑TX LE 50TH
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Here is the video of the clutch running after they have been cleaned and the flashing taken care of. As you can see the clutch is very snappy.
Jeepjklabrador
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- 2015 sr viper mtx
2014m8000
2012 skandic swt
Why is it squeeling on disengagement
- Joined
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Why is it squeeling on disengagement
My clutch does that also Jeep, so does our Phazer. Listen to the clutch. It's because there is no load on the track and the clutch is releasing right away.
Jeepjklabrador
Extreme
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2014m8000
2012 skandic swt
My bad i never ran mine with the track up i guess lol
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No worries bud
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Checked my buds Viper and the flashing was causing scratches in the towers. All cleaned up and hopefully will run better than 92 now. I also checked my 13 Nytro XTX and that was good. Looked like it was cleaned up at the factory.
- Joined
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Checked my buds Viper and the flashing was causing scratches in the towers. All cleaned up and hopefully will run better than 92 now. I also checked my 13 Nytro XTX and that was good. Looked like it was cleaned up at the factory.
That's what I am finding also on the newer ones and not the older ones. Seems like to cut down on cost, they (Yamaha and Cat) needed to cut cost somewhere and left the casting company to handle the deburring. Since I work in quality at a machine shop where castings come in the door for us to machine, I see this on a daily basis where deburring a part (especially on Datum points to locate the part on the fixture) is very critical.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
I caught alot of flak last year saying these are not the same clutches we had in the past. I also believe the long break in time is not engine but clutch related.
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I agree.... lots of symptoms pointing back to clutching
yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2019 zr9000 Ltd
I was thinking the same thing the other day!!! Once I'm done summarizing my viper I will be checking my wife's zr 7000 also to see if it has the same casting flashes!I caught alot of flak last year saying these are not the same clutches we had in the past. I also believe the long break in time is not engine but clutch related.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Guess I'm going to take my secondary apart and check this as i can feel an flashing edge there. Guess I could use my dremel tool?
yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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by no means am I a expert but a round file worked perfectly! not sure if a dremel bit will fit in the slot???Guess I'm going to take my secondary apart and check this as i can feel an flashing edge there. Guess I could use my dremel tool?
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have some very small sanding bits for my dremel. Or if not I have round files as well.by no means am I a expert but a round file worked perfectly! not sure if a dremel bit will fit in the slot???
Rich Kay
TY 4 Stroke Guru
This is NOT for starting a great debate on perfect clutch condition but... the movable sheave really should never be too free to fall with no resistance if all parts are in like new or good condition. The pucks in the spider are two pieces a left and right part. The one is "preloaded" with a small o-ring behind it to retain a tolerance until worn beyond spec (which is when you start to hear the proverbial clutch rattle at idle) and has a fare amount of friction in all three towers. Plus if you where to install just the clutch cover with no spring (that holds the spring in) you will likely see even a different reaction as the torquing of the six cover bolts change the towers in this condition. The primary spring is loaded enough to easily to negate these factors which exist. The tips given are awesome for a clean clutch and DO make a big difference in how happy things are... again great advise. I have not only been taught this but have rebuilt a few yamaha clutches. This may sound strange but over the years back when I was a drag racer a somewhat "worn" not loose clutch in this area was free HP! And so is a clean clutch in the nice tip given..
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