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Clutch pics & video, before and after cleaning affect


Here is the video of the clutch running after they have been cleaned and the flashing taken care of. As you can see the clutch is very snappy.

 
Why is it squeeling on disengagement
 
My bad i never ran mine with the track up i guess lol
 
No worries bud :)
 
Checked my buds Viper and the flashing was causing scratches in the towers. All cleaned up and hopefully will run better than 92 now. I also checked my 13 Nytro XTX and that was good. Looked like it was cleaned up at the factory.
 
Checked my buds Viper and the flashing was causing scratches in the towers. All cleaned up and hopefully will run better than 92 now. I also checked my 13 Nytro XTX and that was good. Looked like it was cleaned up at the factory.

That's what I am finding also on the newer ones and not the older ones. Seems like to cut down on cost, they (Yamaha and Cat) needed to cut cost somewhere and left the casting company to handle the deburring. Since I work in quality at a machine shop where castings come in the door for us to machine, I see this on a daily basis where deburring a part (especially on Datum points to locate the part on the fixture) is very critical.
 
I agree.... lots of symptoms pointing back to clutching
 
I caught alot of flak last year saying these are not the same clutches we had in the past. I also believe the long break in time is not engine but clutch related.
I was thinking the same thing the other day!!! Once I'm done summarizing my viper I will be checking my wife's zr 7000 also to see if it has the same casting flashes!
 
Guess I'm going to take my secondary apart and check this as i can feel an flashing edge there. Guess I could use my dremel tool?
 
Guess I'm going to take my secondary apart and check this as i can feel an flashing edge there. Guess I could use my dremel tool?
by no means am I a expert but a round file worked perfectly! not sure if a dremel bit will fit in the slot???
 
by no means am I a expert but a round file worked perfectly! not sure if a dremel bit will fit in the slot???
I have some very small sanding bits for my dremel. Or if not I have round files as well.
 
This is NOT for starting a great debate on perfect clutch condition but... the movable sheave really should never be too free to fall with no resistance if all parts are in like new or good condition. The pucks in the spider are two pieces a left and right part. The one is "preloaded" with a small o-ring behind it to retain a tolerance until worn beyond spec (which is when you start to hear the proverbial clutch rattle at idle) and has a fare amount of friction in all three towers. Plus if you where to install just the clutch cover with no spring (that holds the spring in) you will likely see even a different reaction as the torquing of the six cover bolts change the towers in this condition. The primary spring is loaded enough to easily to negate these factors which exist. The tips given are awesome for a clean clutch and DO make a big difference in how happy things are... again great advise. I have not only been taught this but have rebuilt a few yamaha clutches. This may sound strange but over the years back when I was a drag racer a somewhat "worn" not loose clutch in this area was free HP! And so is a clean clutch in the nice tip given..
 
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