Clutch pics & video, before and after cleaning affect

[NOS-PRO]

Here are 2 pics of aquaticlaker's primary clutch before cleaning. Notice the belt residue by the sliders on the spider. This is actually less than most I see, I've seen some that you don't even see the aluminum. His sled has run the 8DN belt since brand new, but because his secondary was binding up and not shifting open enough from the casting flash, his belt was slipping and causing his clutching to do crazy stuff. This was why his COTC setup was hitting the rev limiter no matter how much weight (rivets) we put in his primary weights.

OK, back to the primary..... Look for evidence of large amounts of powder from the belt, if its in your bellypan....it's stuck in your clutching also. I know for a fact that aquaticlaker cleaned his clutches a couple times and still had problems with engagement, hitting the rev limiter all the time and couldn't pull anymore mph no matter what we did to the clutching. This is with over 2,000 miles on the sled.

1) Take the primary clutch off of the sled (if you have the correct Yamaha clutch puller), this is the best way to clean the clutching is outside cause you WILL have a black cloud if you do it indoors.....especially in the sled.

2) Take the top cover off of your primary (6 10mm bolts) and start your air compressor. Under high pressure, blow the snot out of the clutch, getting into every nook and cranny. Yes, that is all belt dust!!!!
This is a good time to check your rollers and weights to see if they move freely, if not....the whole weight and rollers need to come out and get cleaned, but most will be ok.

3) take a rag and wipe out the pockets where the spider pads ride. This is where the gunk really gets trapped. Blow out once again and check for binding or to see if the clutch moves freely. If not, more cleaning is needed.

4) when putting the primary back together, look for the "x" inside the cover and on the spider, they must match up as this is how the clutch was machined so you want it back that way for balancing.

Here is a video of how the clutch was before cleaning and after....much more free.

 

[weasel33]

Good write up and video terry.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Thanks bud!

 

[cannondale27]

Stickied that in Facts. Nice!

 

[yamahaguy]

Thanks Terry. This is going to be done this weekend before the sleds are put away for the summer. Keep you're eyes open for the UPS guy next week, he will have a spring in a box for you.

 

[RTX]

View attachment 107491 View attachment 107490

Here are 2 pics of aquaticlaker's primary clutch before cleaning. Notice the belt residue by the sliders on the spider. This is actually less than most I see, I've seen some that you don't even see the aluminum. His sled has run the 8DN belt since brand new, but because his secondary was binding up and not shifting open enough from the casting flash, his belt was slipping and causing his clutching to do crazy stuff. This was why his COTC setup was hitting the rev limiter no matter how much weight (rivets) we put in his primary weights.

OK, back to the primary..... Look for evidence of large amounts of powder from the belt, if its in your bellypan....it's stuck in your clutching also. I know for a fact that aquaticlaker cleaned his clutches a couple times and still had problems with engagement, hitting the rev limiter all the time and couldn't pull anymore mph no matter what we did to the clutching. This is with over 2,000 miles on the sled.

1) Take the primary clutch off of the sled (if you have the correct Yamaha clutch puller), this is the best way to clean the clutching is outside cause you WILL have a black cloud if you do it indoors.....especially in the sled.

2) Take the top cover off of your primary (6 10mm bolts) and start your air compressor. Under high pressure, blow the snot out of the clutch, getting into every nook and cranny. Yes, that is all belt dust!!!!
This is a good time to check your rollers and weights to see if they move freely, if not....the whole weight and rollers need to come out and get cleaned, but most will be ok.

3) take a rag and wipe out the pockets where the spider pads ride. This is where the gunk really gets trapped. Blow out once again and check for binding or to see if the clutch moves freely. If not, more cleaning is needed.

4) when putting the primary back together, look for the "x" inside the cover and on the spider, they must match up as this is how the clutch was machined so you want it back that way for balancing.

Here is a video of how the clutch was before cleaning and after....much more free.

Can you please post more info about what you found (casting flash) in his secondary and what you dit to fix it please
Pictures would also be helpful if you took any.
Thanks

 

[aquaticlaker]

View attachment 107491 View attachment 107490

Here are 2 pics of aquaticlaker's primary clutch before cleaning. Notice the belt residue by the sliders on the spider. This is actually less than most I see, I've seen some that you don't even see the aluminum. His sled has run the 8DN belt since brand new, but because his secondary was binding up and not shifting open enough from the casting flash, his belt was slipping and causing his clutching to do crazy stuff. This was why his COTC setup was hitting the rev limiter no matter how much weight (rivets) we put in his primary weights.

OK, back to the primary..... Look for evidence of large amounts of powder from the belt, if its in your bellypan....it's stuck in your clutching also. I know for a fact that aquaticlaker cleaned his clutches a couple times and still had problems with engagement, hitting the rev limiter all the time and couldn't pull anymore mph no matter what we did to the clutching. This is with over 2,000 miles on the sled.

1) Take the primary clutch off of the sled (if you have the correct Yamaha clutch puller), this is the best way to clean the clutching is outside cause you WILL have a black cloud if you do it indoors.....especially in the sled.

2) Take the top cover off of your primary (6 10mm bolts) and start your air compressor. Under high pressure, blow the snot out of the clutch, getting into every nook and cranny. Yes, that is all belt dust!!!!
This is a good time to check your rollers and weights to see if they move freely, if not....the whole weight and rollers need to come out and get cleaned, but most will be ok.

3) take a rag and wipe out the pockets where the spider pads ride. This is where the gunk really gets trapped. Blow out once again and check for binding or to see if the clutch moves freely. If not, more cleaning is needed.

4) when putting the primary back together, look for the "x" inside the cover and on the spider, they must match up as this is how the clutch was machined so you want it back that way for balancing.

Here is a video of how the clutch was before cleaning and after....much more free.

View attachment 107491 View attachment 107490

Here are 2 pics of aquaticlaker's primary clutch before cleaning. Notice the belt residue by the sliders on the spider. This is actually less than most I see, I've seen some that you don't even see the aluminum. His sled has run the 8DN belt since brand new, but because his secondary was binding up and not shifting open enough from the casting flash, his belt was slipping and causing his clutching to do crazy stuff. This was why his COTC setup was hitting the rev limiter no matter how much weight (rivets) we put in his primary weights.

OK, back to the primary..... Look for evidence of large amounts of powder from the belt, if its in your bellypan....it's stuck in your clutching also. I know for a fact that aquaticlaker cleaned his clutches a couple times and still had problems with engagement, hitting the rev limiter all the time and couldn't pull anymore mph no matter what we did to the clutching. This is with over 2,000 miles on the sled.

1) Take the primary clutch off of the sled (if you have the correct Yamaha clutch puller), this is the best way to clean the clutching is outside cause you WILL have a black cloud if you do it indoors.....especially in the sled.

2) Take the top cover off of your primary (6 10mm bolts) and start your air compressor. Under high pressure, blow the snot out of the clutch, getting into every nook and cranny. Yes, that is all belt dust!!!!
This is a good time to check your rollers and weights to see if they move freely, if not....the whole weight and rollers need to come out and get cleaned, but most will be ok.

3) take a rag and wipe out the pockets where the spider pads ride. This is where the gunk really gets trapped. Blow out once again and check for binding or to see if the clutch moves freely. If not, more cleaning is needed.

4) when putting the primary back together, look for the "x" inside the cover and on the spider, they must match up as this is how the clutch was machined so you want it back that way for balancing.

Here is a video of how the clutch was before cleaning and after....much more free.

Thanks for the help Terry I can't wait to try it out.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Thanks for the help Terry I can't wait to try it out.

You are very welcome Mike

 

[NOS-PRO]

Can you please post more info about what you found (casting flash) in his secondary and what you dit to fix it please
Pictures would also be helpful if you took any.
Thanks

I will do that, in fact I was working on getting something going the first time I saw weasel's clutch and thought...."oh, maybe just a fluke", but now this is the 2nd time that has caused an issue.

Will post pictures and a video of how to remove the flash and where it's binding.

aquaticlaker's sled was the weirdest because if you remember the post from Mr. Sled about a clutching test and fun day, I worked on aquaticlaker's sled and could not figure out how to get the sled off of the rev limiter.....no matter how much weight I threw his COTC kit. It was like the sled ran 94/95/96 with no improvement over stock. The secondary was already machined for the 8DN and thought....well, there is nothing wrong with the secondary....must be all in the primary. I was soooo wrong. The secondary would get to a point and stop movement or shift, causing the belt to slip and the engine hitting the rev limiter. All the testing on Vipers now, I needed to figure out what was going on so after 2 really good days of testing, the secondary was the problem and now aquaticlaker has a stock 2015 (except for clutching) running 101 on GPS on snow that was wet, crumbly and ice underneath.

 

[yamamarc]

Hey Terry!! thanks for the write up and video!!! When I installed my cotc kit my spider did not move freely at all like your video!! I thought it was just the tight tolerance of the bushing on the shaft. Thanks I will be doing a proper cleaning after seeing the thread! I've only ran 8jp belts from new but have all the proper shims to change to 8dn for next season! Any info of what to pay attention of in the secondary would be greatly appreciated??? do you guys use brake clean on your clutches?? Here is a pic to give you a idea of how much belt dust was accumulated with under 1000km

 

[cannondale27]

Soap and water usually does the trick. Acetone works well also for anything baked on. Toothbrush and scrub.

 

[stingray719]

Hey Terry!! thanks for the write up and video!!! When I installed my cotc kit my spider did not move freely at all like your video!! I thought it was just the tight tolerance of the bushing on the shaft. Thanks I will be doing a proper cleaning after seeing the thread! I've only ran 8jp belts from new but have all the proper shims to change to 8dn for next season! Any info of what to pay attention of in the secondary would be greatly appreciated??? do you guys use brake clean on your clutches?? Here is a pic to give you a idea of how much belt dust was accumulated with under 1000km
View attachment 107548

Some if not all the bushings are fiber, don't use anything caustic in there.

 

[buddah]

Soap and water usually does the trick. Acetone works well also for anything baked on. Toothbrush and scrub.

And if the wife is not around a quick trip through the dishwasher will "get it" too.........be especially careful about the 1st part of that statement.......

 

[yamamarc]

Thanks guys for the info it's always greatly and mean greatly appreciated!!!
Buddah if my wife ever found out the I put the clutches in the dishwasher I'd be castrated on the spot!!!lol

 

[RTX]

I will do that, in fact I was working on getting something going the first time I saw weasel's clutch and thought...."oh, maybe just a fluke", but now this is the 2nd time that has caused an issue.

Will post pictures and a video of how to remove the flash and where it's binding.

aquaticlaker's sled was the weirdest because if you remember the post from Mr. Sled about a clutching test and fun day, I worked on aquaticlaker's sled and could not figure out how to get the sled off of the rev limiter.....no matter how much weight I threw his COTC kit. It was like the sled ran 94/95/96 with no improvement over stock. The secondary was already machined for the 8DN and thought....well, there is nothing wrong with the secondary....must be all in the primary. I was soooo wrong. The secondary would get to a point and stop movement or shift, causing the belt to slip and the engine hitting the rev limiter. All the testing on Vipers now, I needed to figure out what was going on so after 2 really good days of testing, the secondary was the problem and now aquaticlaker has a stock 2015 (except for clutching) running 101 on GPS on snow that was wet, crumbly and ice underneath.

Great. Thank you.
Looking forward to that post