Clutch servicing

[jpilk99]

Best way to test belt is take it off and just set it in the sheaves. If it sits where we think it should then yes you need to spin it to get it up top. If it sits in the same place then there is an adjustment needed.
It’s possible there are shims or washers between the sheaves preventing them from closing more or maybe the clutch is stuck like the primary was and won’t fully close.
Stock these secondary’s have a bit of float, or loose back and forth to self align. I think with your set up the knurled knob needs to take up the loose you are seeing and the clutch needs to be aligned perfectly with the primary. Otherwise the adjuster would serve no purpose except for belt removal.

So, I am back at the 2ndary clutch/belt and it's still loose as a goose. Rear of sled completely off the ground. Spun track... belt sitting a good quarter inch below top of sheaves.

There are no spacers between sheaves. When I had it on the bench they were like a couple of kisser fish, smacked right up against one another. I am spinning the knurled knob counter clockwise as I believe that the spring inside the helix will push that "setup" (adjuster, collar with the 3 allen headed bolts, rollers, etc.) which - and I may be wrong here - is bringing the inner sheave out away from the engine and closer to the outer sheave, thus tightening. But that isn't happening. I've actually got this black adjuster knob so loosened that the whole clutch is sliding back 'n forth about an 1/8" to 1/4" inch. That can't be right, to be that loose, right? So when I snug that adjust knob in, to take up this 1/4" slide ...then the spring can't push that "helix setup" further away from engine to tighten...

Last thing I'll say is when I took the mounting/securing bolt off, then removed the black knob, there was a very thin washer/spacer (guessing here, but, maybe 1/32" thick) and about an inch & 3/4" outside diameter sitting just along the inner surface of the black knob ...and then a much thicker washer, about 1/8" to 3/16" thick and 3/4" outside diameter that sat down inside toward the splined shaft.

I'm thinking it's one of two things:

1). That those "washers/spacers" are impacting my ability to tighten sheaves together, thus tightening belt. Or.
2). The secondary clutch overall is a sticky/gummy mess and the is not functioning properly to allow the spring to push that outer collar out and taking the inner sheave with it...

Sorry folks if I just am a moron here. I can't figure this "easy to use" clutch out. I'm thinking I might be a lot better off with a stock Yammagucci. Seeing a few on ebay for $188 and less, under a $100....

Thank you.

Jay

 

[74Nitro]

Don't you have anyone around that's maybe a bit handier with this stuff....no offence intended.

 

[jpilk99]

If it helps make sense of the my immediate previous post:

The red is the "setup collar"
The green arrow points to the thin 1 & 3/4" diameter washer
The yellow arrow points to the thick 3/4" washer

I'll also not that the rollers are way at the top of those 3 gold helix fingers while the secondary is on the bench. On the sled, the rollers are almost 1/2" down those fingers.

 

[jpilk99]

Don't you have anyone around that's maybe a bit handier with this stuff....no offence intended.

I just don't understand how the clutches work. I do a ton of small engine repair, automotive repair, etc. (No offense taken). I'm very handy - just have no idea how these clutches work, other than the primary squeezing in to grab to belt and the secondary opening up to allow greater speed(s).

 

[tsiceman]

In one of previous pics, there is spacers or nuts in between clutch tower and helix, I assume that could be the problem for clutch not closing enough when installed.
Not sure why they would be there anyway.

 

[72Gran]

Ok try this. If the clutch is kissing fish on the bench where does the belt sit in the clutch on the bench? If the belt is high thats ok. Then install the clutch without the bolt or the adjuster. Just slide it on the spline and install the belt and see where it sits. If the belt is sitting high then you need to play around with those spacers to see what they actually do, don’t be scared to remove the big one or add another one just to see what differences they make.

If the belt sits low then your spring may be to soft and you will need to adjust the tension.

 

[jpilk99]

In one of previous pics, there is spacers or nuts in between clutch tower and helix, I assume that could be the problem for clutch not closing enough when installed.
Not sure why they would be there anyway.

The clutch came to me with 2 spacers, an ultra thin 'washer' that is about 1 3/4" wide and then a thicker one, the size of a ring for your finger.

As well, there's a ~ 2" collar down in further towards the shaft/engine. See pic here. The order they appear, left to right, is how they came off the sled.

 

[jpilk99]

If it helps, here's the clutch shaft after pulling off bolt/adjustment knob/washer/spacer/collar...

 

[jpilk99]

Oddly (or maybe not) I thought I was able to get the sheaves a little closer, and the belt to sit a little higher (tighter) when I added another spacer - about half the thickness of the initial one that was in there... See pic, original one is behind, the one I added is in front. (Yesssssss it's a lockwasher that I flattened out).

 

[jpilk99]

Ok try this. If the clutch is kissing fish on the bench where does the belt sit in the clutch on the bench? If the belt is high thats ok. Then install the clutch without the bolt or the adjuster. Just slide it on the spline and install the belt and see where it sits. If the belt is sitting high then you need to play around with those spacers to see what they actually do, don’t be scared to remove the big one or add another one just to see what differences they make.

If the belt sits low then your spring may be to soft and you will need to adjust the tension.

Here's the clutch on the bench, sheaves (to me) incredibly close to one another ...and likely can't get any closer. Belt seems to sit almost perfect, though maybe just a little bit high. I'll have to see how it sits when I just slide clutch back on without bolt or adjuster. As mentioned above, I did add a spacer that seemed to help. I think I should add another, but, concerned to may run out of thread for the bolt to grab onto

 

[jpilk99]

THANKS GUYS!

 

[74Nitro]

If you have the clutch installed without anything on the end of the shaft what happens when you give it a spin?
Does the belt come right up?
Note- normally the belts will sit about .5-1mm above the sheave.

 

[74Nitro]

Also, you were able to spin the outer threaded portion of that adjuster?

 

[74Nitro]

Here's the clutch on the bench, sheaves (to me) incredibly close to one another ...and likely can't get any closer. Belt seems to sit almost perfect, though maybe just a little bit high. I'll have to see how it sits when I just slide clutch back on without bolt or adjuster. As mentioned above, I did add a spacer that seemed to help. I think I should add another, but, concerned to may run out of thread for the bolt to grab onto

In pic 2293 the belt is a bit high, it should be about half that amount.

 

[jpilk99]

If you have the clutch installed without anything on the end of the shaft what happens when you give it a spin?
Does the belt come right up?
Note- normally the belts will sit about .5-1mm above the sheave.

Thanks for your post, Nitro. Not tryin to be a complete dolt here, but, what do you mean "give it a spin"? Fire up sled and rev it, or just try to turn it by hand? I can go out right now, slide clutch back on shaft, put belt on ...I'm assuming - just like with the clutch on the bench - the sheaves will be smacked right up against one another and the belt sitting pretty high.

Please let me know what you mean by "give it a spin" and I'll go do it