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Clutching on the cheap

Blue Dave, I have the exact same setup except I added .85g to centre and base hole and now it does not hit the rev limiter anymore
 

I went ahead and put the 3.1 g rivets in the middle hole. I was concerned that this may be too much weight but it actually is about perfect now. I ran several miles on the lake today and only hit the rev limiter a few times. It launches nice at around 8500 rpm then climbs quickly to 9000 rpm eventually topping out at 9100 rpm. I picked up several mph on top end with a top speed of 97.3 mph on GPS.

Here is my current COTC set-up as of tonight which I am happy with for now. If the motor keeps getting stronger as it continues to break in I can always add more weight.

8FP weights with 4.5 g rivets in the outer hole and 3.1 g rivets in the middle hole.
GWG primary spring with three 1 mm shims.
46/40 helix with the stock pink secondary spring wrapped at 6-1. (The helix has the spring pocket machined 0.080" deeper to prevent spring coil binding without the need for placing washers under the helix.)

Thanks again for all of the help!
 
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I don't see a 2.1 g rivet in the list of Yamaha rivets. Is this an aftermarket rivet? I also noticed that because the 8FP weight is 11.5 mm thick the rivets that are shorter than 13.3 mm (11.3 & 10.3) will not be long enough to peen over to secure gem.

Where did you find the 2.1 g rivet and how long is it?

I have some 3.1 g rivets that are 13.3 mm long that I could put in the middle hole. Might be worth a try?
Use a Yamaha 2.44g part# 90266-06002-00. 13.3mm long with a hole in it. Or drill a hole thru the 13.3mm solid one like stingray said. To use the 10.3 mm rivets you just take a center punch and put 3 punch marks in the non flared end to hold them in.


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Anybody have any testing/feedback on the OSP clutch kit?
 
Anybody have any testing/feedback on the OSP clutch kit?

Sorry for the late post. After several weekends of testing we really like the OSP and would happily recommend them. Our red viper ran them before turbo and after and I have no complaints. I run the OSP weights with Barn Of Parts soft start spring with 6mm of shims but the GWG will work fine just not as smooth a take off. Happy to help with info on them
 
Hey so stupid question probably but if you have the magnetic weights how exactly do you tune, like what do you do to adjust it with the clutch still on the sled ? Or on the trail?

I've been doing a lot of adjusting thus year and it is most definitely a pain taking it apart then re loctiting everything / leaving it for a bit for the loctite to set before you can test it out
 
Hey so stupid question probably but if you have the magnetic weights how exactly do you tune, like what do you do to adjust it with the clutch still on the sled ? Or on the trail?

I've been doing a lot of adjusting thus year and it is most definitely a pain taking it apart then re loctiting everything / leaving it for a bit for the loctite to set before you can test it out

For ease I pull the 6 clutch cover bolts, take off drive belt. Then you can access the magnets and pull out or push in as needed.
 
Sorry for the late post. After several weekends of testing we really like the OSP and would happily recommend them. Our red viper ran them before turbo and after and I have no complaints. I run the OSP weights with Barn Of Parts soft start spring with 6mm of shims but the GWG will work fine just not as smooth a take off. Happy to help with info on them

Thanks Stingray for the reply. What spring and helix are you running in the secondary, stock? I'm looking for something that is easy to adjust without having to physically take the weights out every time as it is becoming a PITA. Did OSP have the weights set up for you based on your different mods?
 
Thanks Stingray for the reply. What spring and helix are you running in the secondary, stock? I'm looking for something that is easy to adjust without having to physically take the weights out every time as it is becoming a PITA. Did OSP have the weights set up for you based on your different mods?

I am at 10k altitude and above so I had to do a special setup. But all stock secondary, and I was pleased at how quick and easy weights changed. Only down side was those magnets are STRONG and everything in your weight box sticks to them!
 
Hey so stupid question probably but if you have the magnetic weights how exactly do you tune, like what do you do to adjust it with the clutch still on the sled ? Or on the trail?

I've been doing a lot of adjusting thus year and it is most definitely a pain taking it apart then re loctiting everything / leaving it for a bit for the loctite to set before you can test it out
I Just use this tool to compress the clutch and same allen wrench used for clutch setscrews to pop the magnetic weights out. Once compressed the clip holds clutch closed. Can even do the tip weight easy.Gravy!
tool.JPG
 


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