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Clutching on the cheap


So I did some testing today!! Weather was warm +3 degrees Celsius(warm) and my testing was done on approx. 1000 feet start, slow down and stop to turn around included on a hard packed road!
I started by replacing the rivets in the tip with the 4.5 gram weights Yamaha part #90261-06033-00. Then went for a test run and was whacking the limiter
So I decided to add the 3.1 gram yamaha part #90261-06019-00 to the center hole and took a test run and max rpm was 8890! seems spot on! I didn't have the room to do all long wot run but
I'm going for a ride Monday morning to do the real world testing hopefully it's right on the money!

Another thing with playing with the rivets I found that compressing them in a vise then hitting the jaw with a hammer then retightening worked well for install

All this testing was done in warm weather on Monday we are going back to -8 degrees Celcius hopefully in the colder weather I'm not back on the limiter

The sled is also not as jumpy of the start

incase you haven't read my previous posts I have a sandales pipe and airbox mod
 
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So I did some testing today!! Weather was warm +3 degrees Celsius(warm) and my testing was done on approx. 1000 feet start, slow down and stop to turn around included on a hard packed road!
I started by replacing the rivets in the tip with the 4.5 gram weights Yamaha part #90261-06033-00. Then went for a test run and was whacking the limiter
So I decided to add the 3.1 gram yamaha part #90261-06019-00 to the center hole and took a test run and max rpm was 8890! seems spot on! I didn't have the room to do all long wot run but
I'm going for a ride Monday morning to do the real world testing hopefully it's right on the money!

Another thing with playing with the rivets I found that compressing them in a vise then hitting the jaw with a hammer then retightening worked well for install

All this testing was done in warm weather on Monday we are going back to -8 degrees Celcius hopefully in the colder weather I'm not back on the limiter

The sled is also not as jumpy of the start

incase you haven't read my previous posts I have a sandales pipe and airbox mod
tomorrow will be -10 and will be doing a big run so hopefully it's clutch perfect I'll report when I get back
 
Just got back from a ride! The trails and lake are hard from being +3 degrees Celsius to -10*C
On the lake wot for the length I hit 166km/h with a max rpm of 9273 I did not feel my self hit the rev limiter so it may have been on take off
20160222_113832.jpg


Next I tried it out on a hard flat groomed trail and out of 3 trys I was hitting 9158 to 9191 rpm
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20160222_134557.jpg


Now the trail and lake were hard as rock I'm just wondering if I should get the rpms down a touch or leave it at is? I never felt the sled hit the limiter once! Thinking in a little softer conditions it may drop a bit!
Thought of maybe trying a gates belt(some claim it drops the rpm by 200)
 
If you didn't hit the limiter then leave it. As the snow gets softer it will pull the rpms down from there. Jmo


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If you didn't hit the limiter then leave it. As the snow gets softer it will pull the rpms down from there. Jmo


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I didn't feel the limiter but my rpm's are showing above the max 9250 on the lake run? I am out again tomorrow and there will be warmer temps so soften the snow!
I'll try again and give more feed back! My buddy with a totally stock 16 viper mentioned that he was hitting his limiter to too so it must be the hard conditions
 
I was just reading some of this again. Must be bored. Has anyone ever found an aftermarket helix with a deeper pocket and/or another secondary spring that is not as thick, but is close to the same force?

I had my sled set up pretty well last winter, but I read the posts about the shimming out the helix possibly causing issues. I agree with Cannondale the edge of my ramp was up on the buttons.

Anyway, I took out my washers and definitely lost some top end and want to get it back.
 
You can get your helix machined so that the secondary will shift more and so that eliminate the coil binding of the stock spring. I gained a few mph top end just by doing that on my sled.
just curious how much did you machine out of the pocket?
 
just curious how much did you machine out of the pocket?

I do remember that I had .080" taken out of the spring pocket, but I also had the actual neck on the helix machined too, if u take the spring out of the secondary and fasten the helix back on and open the secondary as if it's in full shift out you'll see that the neck of the stock helix limits the amount of travel. I'll double check later on how much got taken off there. You can't go much otherwise the secondary will open too much and the belt will hit the center hub which definitely wouldn't be good. I had a dalton helix which I just used as a guideline and had the stock helix machined to the same specs as the dalton one since they come already setup with a deeper spring pocket and a shorter neck.
 
Maybe I will just buy another helix from dalton. Anyone know of a good place to get one?
 
Order right from dalton. That's what I do.


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I purchased my 46/40 helix with a 0.080" cut out of the spring pocket for $69.95 plus shipping and tax from a vendor here in MN.

I am not sure if I am allowed to post the vendor name because they are not a paid advertiser on this site. What is the policy on posting information on products from vendors that are not paid advertisers on this site?
 
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you could also order a secondary spring from thunder products $35 plus shipping, they are a vendor on here. They say this spring will not coil bind, so no machining of the helix is necessary. I installed this spring in my sled on my last trip of the season last winter and thought it worked great!
 


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