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Clutching on the cheap

Kerrdog - That's what is awesome about the guys on this site....we want to help! Simple things to make the Viper run better, handle better and even get better fuel mileage. :)

I noticed the coil bind back in February when a member broke his secondary spring. I put a new one in and when it didn't work, I thought "hmmmmm, why is the paint gone on the coils?" After that it was clear certain springs do not have the clearance on the secondary clutch. The stock pink spring is one of them. hence, the extra washer under the helix when I was testing clutching.

Now....doing a lot of thinking here..... this coil bind issue could be why the 8JP did not last and the 8DN is doing so well. Think about this, the 8JP is shorter than the 8DN....if the shorter belt would go down into the secondary "without" machining done to the secondary, it would try to open the secondary more than the 8DN in which the coil bind issue would really kill top end by not letting the secondary move through the entire movement, hence coil binding and slipping the belt causing the belt to create a bunch of powder and burn the belts to a crisp....creating the black residue! BY GEORGE!!!! I FIGURED IT OUT!!!! The 8DN is a longer belt that would climb more on the primary (more rpms and shift) and not getting to the coil bind area as fast as the 8JP :) This is why the 8DN went faster and then adding the washers under he helix made the top mph numbers show :)

Do you think the 8JP belt will still work in this set-up if the helix is shimmed with the washers? I have a spare 8JP belt already and don't really feel like spending money on another belt!

I know Dalton makes a secondary spring for the yamaha's and say that they are 1/2 inch longer then the silver yamaha spring..Does this give you any ideas?
 
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Do you think the 8JP belt will still work in this set-up if the helix is shimmed with the washers? I have a spare 8JP belt already and don't really feel like spending money on another belt!

I know Dalton makes a secondary spring for the yamaha's and say that they are 1/2 inch longer then the silver yamaha spring..Does this give you any ideas?

Yes, you can use that belt with the same setup with shims
 
Is anyone still selling the 45/39 helix that has the spring pocket machined? I just saw the link to Pioneer performance and was going to call them until I saw that they had closed down
 
I have done the mod listed below but i'm still not able to go faster then 150km/h (93mph). Anyone can help me?

-Stingray Airbox mod
-MBRP trail can
-COTC clutch kit (soft start spring + 2 x 1mm glide washers +4.5g rivet on tip)
-46/40 secondary helix (6-1 wrap / pink spring)
-8DN belt with OSP adjuster)

RPM at WOT = 8900
Gearing = 24 / 50

Thanks!
 
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Is anyone still selling the 45/39 helix that has the spring pocket machined? I just saw the link to Pioneer performance and was going to call them until I saw that they had closed down
Check Dalton.
 
I have done the mod listed below but i'm still not able to go faster then 150km/h (93mph). Anyone can help me?

-Stingray Airbox mod
-MBRP trail can
-COTC clutch kit (soft start spring + 2 x 1mm glide washers +4.5g rivet on tip)
-46/40 secondary helix (6-1 wrap / pink spring)
-8DN belt with OSP adjuster)

RPM at WOT = 8900
Gearing = 24 / 50

Thanks!
Conditions? 6-1 on 46-40 and pink spring is not the ideal set up for top speed. I was faster with stock helix at 3-3 than I am with 46-40 and 6-1. Right now you have better backshift, and it will hold your RPMs better in heavy snow, but it is too much helix and wrap to pull to the bottom of the secondary in anything but perfect conditions. With that helix and spring, try it at 3-3, or even 3-2 and it will help a bit on speed. Your RPM will drop some but the torque in the 1049 can pull it. To get the speed, you need to get full shift from the clutches. All depends on what you like.
 
I have done the mod listed below but i'm still not able to go faster then 150km/h (93mph). Anyone can help me?

-Stingray Airbox mod
-MBRP trail can
-COTC clutch kit (soft start spring + 2 x 1mm glide washers +4.5g rivet on tip)
-46/40 secondary helix (6-1 wrap / pink spring)
-8DN belt with OSP adjuster)

RPM at WOT = 8900
Gearing = 24 / 50

Thanks!
Find some ice with just enough snow for lube and traction. Suck up limiter straps. DuPont slides. Right conditions it will hit 100mph.
 
Find some ice with just enough snow for lube and traction. Suck up limiter straps. DuPont slides. Right conditions it will hit 100mph.
Do that and it will hit 106....
 
Conditions? 6-1 on 46-40 and pink spring is not the ideal set up for top speed. I was faster with stock helix at 3-3 than I am with 46-40 and 6-1. Right now you have better backshift, and it will hold your RPMs better in heavy snow, but it is too much helix and wrap to pull to the bottom of the secondary in anything but perfect conditions. With that helix and spring, try it at 3-3, or even 3-2 and it will help a bit on speed. Your RPM will drop some but the torque in the 1049 can pull it. To get the speed, you need to get full shift from the clutches. All depends on what you like.
Conditions are almost perfect, hard packed snow with low temperture of -20 to -25C (-4 to -13F) Also I already have dupond slides. Then I will try my helix at 3-3 and if needed put back the stock helix at 3-3.

Envoyé de mon Galaxy S7 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
You are using gps right? Try the limiter straps. Even one hole helps.
I don't want to play with limiter strap, I already try that and lost a lot of comfort.
I have a PC5 on the way and I will try to add some power before playing with the limiter strap.

Envoyé de mon Galaxy S7 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
I am running the 8dn belt & cotc Iam getting belt slip when I first take off from a stop if sled is moving at all everything seems fine. What could be the problem?
 
Too tight belt? Did you adjust your belt deflection correctly? Or simply not enough weight (put heavier rivets)

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