Donut replacement does muffler need to come off

Kevin64

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Location
Iowa
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USA
Snowmobile
09 Yamaha Nytro XTX
Hi guys/gals. Going to replace the donuts on my 09 XTX. Trying to remove muffler and heat shield. I've removed all the bolts including those three under the rubber plugs. Shield won't come off and muffler seems to be not attached to it. Just rusted on? Does the muffler even need to come off to replace the donuts?
 
Not at home to see mine, and has been two yrs since I installed my Full Hindle Kit, but yes I do belive muffler needs to come out in order to separate it from the 3 pipes that lead to ur flex pipes...but its been a while.

I think the reason you are having trouble pulling of ur big heat shield may be the bolt holding the collar around the front of your muffler pipe. If you look straight down through one of those holes on your shield, you'll see it. It is attached to a brace on the underside of your shield, and that shield will not lift up while that bolt is still holding it to the muffler. Point a light down that hole, and you will see the bolt. Removing it will "unlock" your shield.

#17 is the bolt.
Screenshot_20191001-011249_Chrome.jpg
 
X2 Yes you will need to remove muffler can from the rear to allow the header pipe to slide back a few inches once the clamps are removed. Just keep working it back and forth and it will come off. There are 2 small alan bolts at the very back that hold can on as well make sure those are removed. Next remove gas tank and remove the heat shield by removing the 4 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts under the 2 rubber plugs these are red locktighted so will have to add heat to them to remove will have to do this from under the sled. Undo the 3 clamps holding the donuts again heat and PB blaster will help. Slide header pipe back a few inches and this will give you enough room to install copper dounts. Install clamps back on, reinstall 2 bolts under rubber plugs. Install muffler can at the rear of sled back on. 2 HR job
 
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No, Just remove the flex joints at the head.
 
I did remove all the bolts. The one on the muffler collar was quite rusty so I'm thinking the muffler has rusted itself to the pipe. I'm going to soak in it in PB and see if that will free it up. Just pulling a twisting seemed to make the whole tunnel twist with the muffler.
 
No need to separate the muffler from the header to do exhaust donuts. I drilled out the rivets that hold the bracket for the header so it will slide aft. Just rivet bracket back on when done.
 
You don't HAVE to remove the muffler or collector pipe. Just remove the engine.
On second thought, you better do it the easy way, and remove the exhaust. Drill out the rivets holding the front collector mount, and you'll have the room you need.
 
Thank you. I will give it a try without removing the muffler.
 
Let us know how u make out.

Replace your donuts with the Coppper ones...not oem. Will last much longer.
 
Will do. I did buy the copper donuts. Finally got that SOB shroud off the muffler. Used a flat nail puller pry it up off all the bolts then slide it a bit forward out from underneath the front tabs on the muffler. A grommet washer is missing on the muffler tabs so previous owner must have been in it before. At least things are moving forward.
 
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Hopefully you made out ok. As an FYI if your still working on it, get yourself some new 5mm allen bolts for the donut brackets. I had to use a dremel and cut a slit in them, then use a screwdriver and wrench to get them off.
 
Sorry folks. Been busy with work. I made out just fine. I removed the allen bolts on the pipe bracket which gave enough slack to slide the pipe back and used channel locks and a third hand to slip the new donuts in place by squeezing the accordion portion back a bit. Original donuts were toast. Came a part in pieces of fiber like material. I did soak the clamps overnight in PB blaster then they loosened nicely. Worst struggle was getting the trail tank back in. All buttoned up now. New hyfax going on next and a oil change. Then ready for snow!!
 
Worst struggle was getting the trail tank back in.

Use a ratchet strap from one foothold to the other run along the back edge of your fuel tank. Tap with a rubber mallet. May have to pry the studs in with a bigger screwdriver. Buy a couple long nuts and grind one half of each one down to a straw size so you can get the threads started through the tank. Grind down a couple fender washers to fit in the slots on the tank. The long nut trick is an awesome hack, I have had my Trail Tank off too many times.
 


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