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dragonfly weights how good are they

snowbeast

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OK i have used all kinds of weights in my yammis in the past,how do you guys like the new dragonfly weights,do they pull harder top speed than dalton,supertips or modified stock weights??
 

I have yet to dial mine in to out perform Ulmer Stage III....
 
Drag and fly

I had proline with the dalton weights. Switched to the dragnfly and was a definate improvement. In my testing they are much better in about the first 600 to 700 ft after that they didn't gain much over proline. Been testing all winter with the dragnfly with turks setup. Very good but with the low gears i am running need more top end pull. One thing I did notice about these weights is the middle tip and overdrive holes will effect how much you can put in the shoulder. I very close to getting it dialed in I needed to put some weight in the tip. But with doing this I had to back off in the middle and a little in the shoulder. Once you test enough you get a feel for how changes in each hole effect the other holes and it pretty easy to dial in. I personnaly found working from the tip first and getting the rpms and pull you need on top is the best. Then tune middle hole for responce and pull then finally adjust shoulder weight. Like I said before with no tip weight and low gears no tip weight after about 85mph didn't have the pull. Once you get used to how to tune them there very strong. Different weight in different holes seems to work about the same as long as you are pulling the right rpms all the way through the shift curve.
 
SledFreak said:
Thanks freak,thats a lot of reading lol,alot of info,i have been playing w/randys version of the dfw on a doo,it works great except for top end,and this is what i want the most is top end,we have long straight trails like ontario cand. and run big lakes,i may even keep the track bare for the remainder of this year,or not lol,i will try,but i am an animal so its hard to do. The dfw sounds good but i still have not seen a flyweight that outperforms the yammi stock weight for top end past a 1/2 run.
 
Re: Drag and fly

Woodysattack said:
I had proline with the dalton weights. Switched to the dragnfly and was a definate improvement. In my testing they are much better in about the first 600 to 700 ft after that they didn't gain much over proline. Been testing all winter with the dragnfly with turks setup. Very good but with the low gears i am running need more top end pull. One thing I did notice about these weights is the middle tip and overdrive holes will effect how much you can put in the shoulder. I very close to getting it dialed in I needed to put some weight in the tip. But with doing this I had to back off in the middle and a little in the shoulder. Once you test enough you get a feel for how changes in each hole effect the other holes and it pretty easy to dial in. I personnaly found working from the tip first and getting the rpms and pull you need on top is the best. Then tune middle hole for responce and pull then finally adjust shoulder weight. Like I said before with no tip weight and low gears no tip weight after about 85mph didn't have the pull. Once you get used to how to tune them there very strong. Different weight in different holes seems to work about the same as long as you are pulling the right rpms all the way through the shift curve.
Thanks for the reply,i need more info about top mph from the dfw vrs stock weight,the stock weight is about as good as they come for all out mph past 1/2 mile run,what i need to know is does this weight out perform the stock weight on top end mph. thanks
 
Re: Drag and fly

Woodysattack said:
I had proline with the dalton weights. Switched to the dragnfly and was a definate improvement. In my testing they are much better in about the first 600 to 700 ft after that they didn't gain much over proline. Been testing all winter with the dragnfly with turks setup. Very good but with the low gears i am running need more top end pull. One thing I did notice about these weights is the middle tip and overdrive holes will effect how much you can put in the shoulder. I very close to getting it dialed in I needed to put some weight in the tip. But with doing this I had to back off in the middle and a little in the shoulder. Once you test enough you get a feel for how changes in each hole effect the other holes and it pretty easy to dial in. I personnaly found working from the tip first and getting the rpms and pull you need on top is the best. Then tune middle hole for responce and pull then finally adjust shoulder weight. Like I said before with no tip weight and low gears no tip weight after about 85mph didn't have the pull. Once you get used to how to tune them there very strong. Different weight in different holes seems to work about the same as long as you are pulling the right rpms all the way through the shift curve.

What gearing are you running?
 


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