rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Kinger - that bleed bolt on the left of the exhaust is only accessable on the motorcycles that uses the same head. This head goes into several different Yamaha engines like MCs, Watercrafts and sleds.
Have you tried cranking the engine on the starter while adding pressure at the same time, if the pump rotates oil and air will get past it. Yes there is a check valve inside the oil pump if I remember it right. I was able to blow oil thru the pump by takeing a deep breath and blow in the hose, so I would say something must be blocking the flow if you can't get anything thru at 5 lbs of pressure.
Good luck, and hope you get it fixed soon
Have you tried cranking the engine on the starter while adding pressure at the same time, if the pump rotates oil and air will get past it. Yes there is a check valve inside the oil pump if I remember it right. I was able to blow oil thru the pump by takeing a deep breath and blow in the hose, so I would say something must be blocking the flow if you can't get anything thru at 5 lbs of pressure.
Good luck, and hope you get it fixed soon
we had it running with preasure applied, and suction on the return, and no oil. It is oiling the top of the head, like it is pumping oil, just not returning to the tank. Maxdlx
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Weird
kinger
VIP Member
Your telling me! Weird and damn frustrating!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
As I said, been there done that. Yes it is scary and frustrating. Hope you can figure it out soon.
kinger
VIP Member
How many builders have had to use the bleed screw? That is my next step, or just dump the oil and start from scratch again.
wheeline
Extreme
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2006
- Messages
- 104
I used the bleed screw. But I don't remember it being that hard to see?
kinger
VIP Member
Do you remember if you had to have that alumn shield off to reach it easily? Maybe I can get creative and get that off with everything in place it doesn't appear so but I haven't tried that hard yet.
Kinger
I just had mine running, and you need to get up to around 4000 rpm to see it circulate. But you can definatly see it. Did you talk to your dealer yet. Paul
I just had mine running, and you need to get up to around 4000 rpm to see it circulate. But you can definatly see it. Did you talk to your dealer yet. Paul
kinger
VIP Member
I talked to him this morning, he said he didn't lock or block anything. He called Yamaha and called me back and they said I need to do the bleed screw no matter what. So I guess I will try to get to that fricken bolt.
So at idle you can see little bubbles just sitting stanionary in your tank? I haven't revved mine that hard yet. Mmm
He also said the oil we were seeing spraying out from the valve cover plug may have been from the cam chains going through the oil in the crank case and back up to the top.
Does anybody know if the RX has a oil pressure sensor??? I have no codes or anything.
So at idle you can see little bubbles just sitting stanionary in your tank? I haven't revved mine that hard yet. Mmm
He also said the oil we were seeing spraying out from the valve cover plug may have been from the cam chains going through the oil in the crank case and back up to the top.
Does anybody know if the RX has a oil pressure sensor??? I have no codes or anything.
yes at idel just air bubblesfloating. 4 grand and circulation. I also got no oil fron return until 4000. just hate to see you rev it that hi if no oil preasure. Maxdlx
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
There is no oil pressure sensor on the RX-1. At Idle you can barely see the oil moving around even if it pumps as it should. Try giving it a little wack on the throttle, if it pumps you will know cause it pumps lots of oil around at 4-5k rpms.
I hope you did oil everything really well at assembly, hate to see you wrech you engine running it too long with no oil pressure.
I hope you did oil everything really well at assembly, hate to see you wrech you engine running it too long with no oil pressure.
Sapling
Extreme
Are these steps that I should be doing on start up after installing a head shim?? There is no way I am getting to the galley bolt with all the turbo heat sheilds in place!!! I put 2 quarts in the oil tank and planned on starting it up. I guess I will put some suction on the big black hose on the top of the oil tank first. This is on an Apex. I never had the bottom apart or out of the sled.
I would hate to have this kind of issue. Glad I used lots of assembly lube!!
Sap
I would hate to have this kind of issue. Glad I used lots of assembly lube!!
Sap
kinger
VIP Member
Yes anytime you disconnect the engine from the oil tank I think it applies.
The correct procedure that 'should' work is to fill the oil tank with 2 qts and note your oil level. Then with 3-5 psi remove the smallest hose on the tank and BLOCK it, then take a air attachment and through the nipple of the small hose you just removed give it a shot for 2-4 seconds. Now check your lever it should have dropped, if not repeat until it does. What your doing is opening a check valve from the tank to the oil pump and making sure oil gets to the pump and once it starts up should create suction to suck it from the tank.
from there top off the tank and make sure its full.
rxrider - I didn't oil anything because I didn't assemble the engine it was removed just to work on the water pump, the engine was not opened up. I'm sure it has oil in the crank case I'm just worried about the head.
Now that you say you cannot see oil cirulating at idle I did see mine move occasionaly but I was looking for big swirls and definitive movement! I will rev to 4K and see what happens, I coudl have not had a problem this entire time!!! (fingers crossed)
The correct procedure that 'should' work is to fill the oil tank with 2 qts and note your oil level. Then with 3-5 psi remove the smallest hose on the tank and BLOCK it, then take a air attachment and through the nipple of the small hose you just removed give it a shot for 2-4 seconds. Now check your lever it should have dropped, if not repeat until it does. What your doing is opening a check valve from the tank to the oil pump and making sure oil gets to the pump and once it starts up should create suction to suck it from the tank.
from there top off the tank and make sure its full.
rxrider - I didn't oil anything because I didn't assemble the engine it was removed just to work on the water pump, the engine was not opened up. I'm sure it has oil in the crank case I'm just worried about the head.
Now that you say you cannot see oil cirulating at idle I did see mine move occasionaly but I was looking for big swirls and definitive movement! I will rev to 4K and see what happens, I coudl have not had a problem this entire time!!! (fingers crossed)
snowy1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I had the same thing on mine last year, I finally just pulled the oil return line from the turbo and had plenty of oil there, so I reved her up all was good.
