Excessive body roll and heavy steering?

[MXD]

My Apex ER only has 150 miles on it and all of the suspension is stock. The only mods are 144 studs, shims, and 8 in carbides. The steering is very heavy and the machine is tippy. I have the Suspension Tuning guide that Yamah gives to dealers but it doesn't shed much light. I'm thinking I should loosen the limiter strap to reduce ski pressure and tighten up the preload in the front. Am I going the right direction?

Any suggestions?

 

[Iceman57]

Leave the limiter strap where it’s at. Loosen the preload on the front shocks about 1" from stock and reduce the transfer to half way between the factory setting and minimum.

 

[zipclean]

And put on a 13mm torsion bar,much better!

 

[NB-NYTRO]

the guy I bought my GT from loosened the limiter strap and installed 8"shaper carbides. He said it made aot of difference.. Also get your control rod and 35-37mm range. I don't know about reducing the pre-load on the front shocks. They come pretty loose as it is.. What is the stock pre-load measurement for clarification?

 

[sledheadgeorge]

The 13mm bar will help with role but is not a must. Because everyone has differnt skis and carbides, best way to set up ski presure for trail riding is to.... raise front end,.......remove spring preload and try it. if it is too loose start to tighten your spring presure 1/2 turn......try it. If you need more then go 1/2 turn more. Do one adjustment at a time and try it. Once you get ski presure were you like it then reduce transfer to limit ski lift in corners. Again do one adjustment at a time. It takes a little time but once you set it up you are good to go for the season.

 

[welterracer]

The apex only really needs 6 inch carbides..

also add a 13mm swaybar.. No more ski lift..

Raising the front shocks will make it more tipppy not less...(higher center of gravity)

 

[MXD]

I figured if I tighted up the preload in the front, the outside ski would "dip" less in the corners and not get too far into the stroke.

 

[SledFreak]

I figured if I tighted up the preload in the front, the outside ski would "dip" less in the corners and not get too far into the stroke.

Yep, that's right.... Half turn won't notice #*$&@. Turn a Least 2 threads at a time, then when you think it is close, then half a turn once it gets close.

 

[Iceman57]

The stiffer your springs are the harder it is for the sled to get on the sway bar. MR sled told me to soften the springs on my RX-1 when i was running Ohlins to get on the bar quicker to eliminate ski lift. It works

If you tighten the front shock preload you will most likley get inside ski lift.

 

[YammiMoose]

Re: Excessive bdy roll and heavy steering?

My Apex ER only has 150 miles on it and all of the suspension is stock. The only mods are 144 studs, shims, and 8 in carbides. The steering is very heavy and the machine is tippy. I have the Suspension Tuning guide that Yamah gives to dealers but it doesn't shed much light. I'm thinking I should loosen the limiter strap to reduce ski pressure and tighten up the preload in the front. Am I going the right direction?

Any suggestions?

What kind of carbides are you running.

I had the 6 inch woodys Doolys and the steering was easybit pushed a bit in the corners at high speed. I changed over to the Stud Boys ones and the steering was much harder but no push and a bit more top end. Haven't done any readjustment but was going to start with the transfer rod.

 

[SledFreak]

The stiffer your springs are the harder it is for the sled to get on the sway bar. MR sled told me to soften the springs on my RX-1 when i was running Ohlins to get on the bar quicker to eliminate ski lift. It works

If you tighten the front shock preload you will most likley get inside ski lift.

How do you figure? If he tightens the preload, it stiffens the the shock, which will notallow the sled to roll coming out of a corner.

 

[cmall531]

i have an er with simmons skis and six inch carbides the thing steers incredibly hard i have no experience with suspension set up, is part of the problem the excessive amount of carbide up front im also running 144 studs and my transfer is set about stand and it looks like my strap is in the longest position where should i start to limit ski lift and hard steering in the corners and still have good bite up front im alittle confused it seems like alot of people have different opinions i also weigh 220 with gear on

 

[snowbeast]

The apex with stock ski only needs 6" and i would loosen the shock preload some and set my transfer toward the min. but get your rear shock set up for 40-45mm of sag and stiffen up the back some it will help with the tippyness.

 

[Iceman57]

The stiffer your springs are the harder it is for the sled to get on the sway bar. MR sled told me to soften the springs on my RX-1 when i was running Ohlins to get on the bar quicker to eliminate ski lift. It works

If you tighten the front shock preload you will most likley get inside ski lift.

How do you figure? If he tightens the preload, it stiffens the the shock, which will notallow the sled to roll coming out of a corner.

Im adding a 13mm this season...however,the biggest factor for me for flat cornering was LOWERING my fox floats,down to where the A arms are slightly LOWER then horizontal.....I ride GROOMED trails,so I have no probs running mine low...the lower center of gravity makes a huge difference,even with my transfer rod set loose,it stays flat....

not quite as low as my radaring pic in avatar...but lower then most run theres....


Ill post more on my findings with the 13mm bar this winter..hoping it is even flatter!

Dan

Your right sledfreak, it won't allow the sled to roll so the whole sled will tip. If you let the sled roll a little it will give the sway bar and the outside shock a chance to absorb some of the transfer from one side to the other. Besides it lowers the center of gravity. You can disagree all you want, but with my sled, that adjustment helped to cure my inside ski lift.

 

[mnf7sp]

12 mm sway bar is great!