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Excessive primary clutch rattle

i have just over 1000 miles on my sidewinder and the rattle from the clutch is getting worst ! Is there a way I can fix this ? Thanks in advance !
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Just add a plastic washer

Envoyé de mon SM-T705W en utilisant Tapatalk
 

ca393cd703f5db7c1712cd4035bf2413.jpg


Just add a plastic washer

Envoyé de mon SM-T705W en utilisant Tapatalk
That is not where all the rattle is coming from. Very little comes from there. I have carefully ground the bushings down so there is no play and mine still rattles like crazy just saying.
 
Aren,t you worried about all the extra weight you are adding to these lightweight machines ? LOL
Actually, great info, the rattling clutch just gives the other brand lovers more ammo to trash talk these otherwise great machines.

add poly washers to bolts to take away the hammering of metal to metal...take ultr thin washers and add between flyweights and stock poly washers...
 
they still use the same stub shaft assembly as the Nytro 8GL-11406-00-00 they rename it 8KJ-11406-00-00 most of the noise come from the excessive backlash in the spline between the crank and the stub shaft guy have try all kind of thing from silicone to loctite it work but only last a few ride then the hammering come back . this topic is well documented in the Nytro section i know how annoying this is but i had to learn to live with it there no fix for it .......... sucks they didnt fix something that obvious its loud !!!
 
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That is not where all the rattle is coming from. Very little comes from there. I have carefully ground the bushings down so there is no play and mine still rattles like crazy just saying.

If you say so!
 
Have any of you had any success replacing the stub shaft, bearing and seal? I have a similar situation where my machine is noisy at idle, grinding sound at a slow creep. The loctite on the stub shaft has been tried by my dealer but it only lasted 45 km before the noise returned. Any thoughts? How would someone determine if a new stub shaft would fit any tighter on the spline without physically trying it? The noise drives me crazy (ier)!
 
Have any of you had any success replacing the stub shaft, bearing and seal? I have a similar situation where my machine is noisy at idle, grinding sound at a slow creep. The loctite on the stub shaft has been tried by my dealer but it only lasted 45 km before the noise returned. Any thoughts? How would someone determine if a new stub shaft would fit any tighter on the spline without physically trying it? The noise drives me crazy (ier)!

its the nature of the beast learn to live with there is no fix for it
 
I have a nytro and my clutch is loud. I have tried everything and the noise is still there. I have 3000 miles on the machine now and there are no signs of anything wearing out. I have learned to just deal with it. I know thats not what people want to hear but I would take a clutch rattle over an engine rattle any day haha.
 
some guy switch the stock yamy clutch for the power block 80 and they notice the stub shaft rattle almost got away thats the only thing iam aware to help with this problem
 
some guy switch the stock yamy clutch for the power block 80 and they notice the stub shaft rattle almost got away thats the only thing iam aware to help with this problem

The motor and power sports giant that Yamaha is, along with their reputation of producing quality products, this should have been addressed already on existing machines. And should definitely be FIXED for 2018!! That's rediculous to keep having this problem year after year. There's no excuse for that!! PERIOD!
 
The motor and power sports giant that Yamaha is, along with their reputation of producing quality products, this should have been addressed already on existing machines. And should definitely be FIXED for 2018!! That's rediculous to keep having this problem year after year. There's no excuse for that!! PERIOD!
The clearance (noise) in the splines of stub shaft/crank connection is there by design. It protects the Babbit Crank bearings by isolating them from the Side forces of the belt and clutch.
 
The clearance (noise) in the splines of stub shaft/crank connection is there by design. It protects the Babbit Crank bearings by isolating them from the Side forces of the belt and clutch.


That makes sense. However, there should be a remedy for the rattling from Yamaha (or at least something to reduce it) with this type of design.
 
Man, not sure what's going on with your sleds but mine barely rattles at all. I certainly don't hear it when I ride and stopped it's barely noticeable

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