sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
donut test
If anyone can remember or not I was trying a little experiment where I didn't reinstall the bracket/heatshield which bolts the y-pipes to the tunnel. I simply hung the y-pipes from the muffler to the flex pipes off the motor. I did this thinking that the y-pipes were too rigid and weren't flexing with the flex pipes thus the cracking under heat. Well to post my results, I checked them tonight after putting near 3000 miles on last year. They all four looked brand new. There was even silicon/antisieze left around the clamp and outside of the donuts. Mind everyone that I also shaved a little more than 1/8" off the clamps for a tighter seal/clamp. I don't know if anyone has been getting more or less mileage on a new set of donuts but I thought I would post my results. Just for kicks the picture is my sled's current state. Hopefully we don't get dumped on anytime soon!
If anyone can remember or not I was trying a little experiment where I didn't reinstall the bracket/heatshield which bolts the y-pipes to the tunnel. I simply hung the y-pipes from the muffler to the flex pipes off the motor. I did this thinking that the y-pipes were too rigid and weren't flexing with the flex pipes thus the cracking under heat. Well to post my results, I checked them tonight after putting near 3000 miles on last year. They all four looked brand new. There was even silicon/antisieze left around the clamp and outside of the donuts. Mind everyone that I also shaved a little more than 1/8" off the clamps for a tighter seal/clamp. I don't know if anyone has been getting more or less mileage on a new set of donuts but I thought I would post my results. Just for kicks the picture is my sled's current state. Hopefully we don't get dumped on anytime soon!
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duste
Extreme
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- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
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- 2007 Attak
I have replaced my gaskets for the second time, the sleds has 11,000kms on it. The last time I had to replace a Y pipe because the clamp wore a hole in it after the original gasket went and I waited too long to replace it. When I replaced them this time I seen where it was about to wear another hole in the pipe, so as a precaution I mixed up some JB weld and put a thin coat around the area where the clamp sits , so if it gets loose again it can wear on the JBweld a bit before it gets to the pipe.
Just an idea to prevent wearing the pipe and costing big bucks.
Just an idea to prevent wearing the pipe and costing big bucks.
zoomzoom
Extreme
I just want to let everyone know that there is a revised part number for the new style exhaust donuts.
Part# 99999-03989-00 replaces 8FA-14623-00-00
Apparently not every dealer is aware of this. I found this out because when I was searching for someone that had the donuts in stock, I called several dealers. They eroneously told me there was no such part. Not the case because all you have to do is google the part number to find out this is an updated part number. I found some dealers charging as much as $18 and others charging as little as $11.
Good Luck to all and Ride hard Play hard!
Part# 99999-03989-00 replaces 8FA-14623-00-00
Apparently not every dealer is aware of this. I found this out because when I was searching for someone that had the donuts in stock, I called several dealers. They eroneously told me there was no such part. Not the case because all you have to do is google the part number to find out this is an updated part number. I found some dealers charging as much as $18 and others charging as little as $11.
Good Luck to all and Ride hard Play hard!
pknapp
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2005
- Messages
- 13
Had to give my dealer the new part number and they had to enter it into their
system so that they could order them. Any idea what the difference is? Hope
they last longer than the old ones.
Part# 99999-03989-00 replaces 8FA-14623-00-00
Apparently not every dealer is aware of this. I found this out because when I was searching for someone that had the donuts in stock, I called several dealers. They eroneously told me there was no such part. Not the case because all you have to do is google the part number to find out this is an updated part number. I found some dealers charging as much as $18 and others charging as little as $11.
Good Luck to all and Ride hard Play hard![/quote]
system so that they could order them. Any idea what the difference is? Hope
they last longer than the old ones.
Part# 99999-03989-00 replaces 8FA-14623-00-00
Apparently not every dealer is aware of this. I found this out because when I was searching for someone that had the donuts in stock, I called several dealers. They eroneously told me there was no such part. Not the case because all you have to do is google the part number to find out this is an updated part number. I found some dealers charging as much as $18 and others charging as little as $11.
Good Luck to all and Ride hard Play hard![/quote]
Super Sled
Lifetime Member
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- Summit X
pknapp said:
My dealer was unaware here in Duluth, so be sure to bring the new part #. The fiches do not reflect the new part # either. But there is such a part.
duste
Extreme
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- Nov 25, 2008
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- 55
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- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
duste said:
DIDN"T WORK. Do not try this idea with the JB weld, after 800km's the gaskets are fine but both Ypipe's are F'd,
the JB weld MAY have added to heat retention and helped crack the flanges off all 4 connections. This is the 3rd go round at this and to say I'm more than not happy is an understatement 
. Snow is great and trails are great and sled is down again for parts . Is thier a Y pipe out there that does not fail or will I just go to work and figure out how to eliminate this POS part from my sled.? 
2006 Apex GT Back Firing
I have a 2006 Apex GT with 6,000 miles. I have had the exhaust donuts replaced but within the past 200 miles or so I have noticed a slight quiet back fire that has progessively but slowly gotten worse. The past ten miles of me riding it I had one loud back fire but only after running it hard through the trails then backing off the throttle. Does this sound like the Y pipe and Exhaust Donuts? I have a trip planned this up coming weekend If I dont fix them before I go could I cause alot of harm to the engine or sled by riding it?
I have a 2006 Apex GT with 6,000 miles. I have had the exhaust donuts replaced but within the past 200 miles or so I have noticed a slight quiet back fire that has progessively but slowly gotten worse. The past ten miles of me riding it I had one loud back fire but only after running it hard through the trails then backing off the throttle. Does this sound like the Y pipe and Exhaust Donuts? I have a trip planned this up coming weekend If I dont fix them before I go could I cause alot of harm to the engine or sled by riding it?
2006 Apex GT back firing.
have a 2006 Apex GT with 6,000 miles. I have had the exhaust donuts replaced but within the past 200 miles or so I have noticed a slight quiet back fire that has progessively but slowly gotten worse. The past ten miles of me riding it I had one loud back fire but only after running it hard through the trails then backing off the throttle. Does this sound like the Y pipe and Exhaust Donuts? I have a trip planned this up coming weekend If I dont fix them before I go could I cause alot of harm to the engine or sled by riding it?
have a 2006 Apex GT with 6,000 miles. I have had the exhaust donuts replaced but within the past 200 miles or so I have noticed a slight quiet back fire that has progessively but slowly gotten worse. The past ten miles of me riding it I had one loud back fire but only after running it hard through the trails then backing off the throttle. Does this sound like the Y pipe and Exhaust Donuts? I have a trip planned this up coming weekend If I dont fix them before I go could I cause alot of harm to the engine or sled by riding it?
duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
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- 122
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- 55
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- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
Well, I have come up with another much cheaper solution for cracked pipes. Due to the cost of parts being double here in Canada (new titanium pipes are 380 ea) and I didn't get a price on stainless yet and with the best conditions in years here I didn't want to wait the 2 weeks for shipping from the States so I came up with a fix.
I cut 4 pieces if regular automotive exhaust pipe about 2-2.5 inches long ,had the 4 pieces flanged at a muffler shop,I cut what was left of the flange on the titanium pipes and then fitted the pieces over the ends of the pipes. Took them to a welding shop that had titanium filler rods and had them welded on. Total cost was 60 bucks, I put the pipes back on and went for a 150kms hard ride and all is great. Nice and quiet again. The big part of this fix is finding a shop that has the titanium rods, they are rare and expensive and there's not a lot of work out there that requires them but they are the only thing that will work, These pipes CANNOT be mig , arc, soldered or bronzed. We tried them all and only titanium will work. This SHOULD be a good solid fix that is fast and cheap for us who have wifes that monitor the costs os snowmobiling closely.
I cut 4 pieces if regular automotive exhaust pipe about 2-2.5 inches long ,had the 4 pieces flanged at a muffler shop,I cut what was left of the flange on the titanium pipes and then fitted the pieces over the ends of the pipes. Took them to a welding shop that had titanium filler rods and had them welded on. Total cost was 60 bucks, I put the pipes back on and went for a 150kms hard ride and all is great. Nice and quiet again. The big part of this fix is finding a shop that has the titanium rods, they are rare and expensive and there's not a lot of work out there that requires them but they are the only thing that will work, These pipes CANNOT be mig , arc, soldered or bronzed. We tried them all and only titanium will work. This SHOULD be a good solid fix that is fast and cheap for us who have wifes that monitor the costs os snowmobiling closely.
donut replacement
Here is a little side note for when you try to loosen the allen screws on the Y-pipe. They strip very easily so I would suggest that with a friend helping that you grasp the screw from the thread side with a pair of vise grips then turn both the allen wrench and vise grip together to break the screws loose. When you get the screws out can them and purchase new socket head screws that are stainless steel and coat with anti-seize compound to make future donut replacement a far easier tasks...I strip the head and had to drill out the screws, retap and replace with stainless steel...not fun
Here is a little side note for when you try to loosen the allen screws on the Y-pipe. They strip very easily so I would suggest that with a friend helping that you grasp the screw from the thread side with a pair of vise grips then turn both the allen wrench and vise grip together to break the screws loose. When you get the screws out can them and purchase new socket head screws that are stainless steel and coat with anti-seize compound to make future donut replacement a far easier tasks...I strip the head and had to drill out the screws, retap and replace with stainless steel...not fun
My Y pipes are cracked and need to be replaced. After diconnecting the hanger bolts will the exhaust and y pipes slide out of the sled to the rear. And then are they replaced through the rear of the sled as well?
Thank you.Mike
Thank you.Mike
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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Are the SS y-pipes by excell any better than the TI pipes that are cracking,they are pricy at 550 bucks,but it has got to be better than replacing with stock parts every 2-3000 miles.mcullin1 said:
redrx1rkt
Expert
My sled has the Yamaha SS pipes from the RX-1. Half as much ($97 each) and supposedly way stronger and less brittle. Better peace of mind for when the gaskets do blow, you won't destroy these pipes as easily.
Y pipe replacement
Regarding y pipe replacement one of your (ROCKERDAN)steps is: 15- now you want to remove 4 rubber grommets from tunnel...two are round and two are oval in shape,pop all 4 out of tunnel.....the two closest to the motor are allen bolts that bolt the Y pipes to tunnel,and loosening these will allow entire Y pipes to slide back(loosen them off now).....the other two further back on tunnel are where the clamps hold the Y pipes to remaining section of exhaust...you also need to loosen these off to allow the sliding rearward of Y pipes....
I need to remove and replace the left Y pipe. To do this do I remove the rear exhausts first so I am able to slide the y pipe out? You mention that the allen bolts should be loosened, should they be removed entirely to remove the y pipe. Do the allen bolts go into a threaded frame piece or is there a nut that will drop down onto the top of the track? Do the exhaust and y pipe seperate easily or is there a trick to that also? Is it neccesary to drop the rear suspension to get the y pipes out?
Thank you very much for your information and your help.
Regarding y pipe replacement one of your (ROCKERDAN)steps is: 15- now you want to remove 4 rubber grommets from tunnel...two are round and two are oval in shape,pop all 4 out of tunnel.....the two closest to the motor are allen bolts that bolt the Y pipes to tunnel,and loosening these will allow entire Y pipes to slide back(loosen them off now).....the other two further back on tunnel are where the clamps hold the Y pipes to remaining section of exhaust...you also need to loosen these off to allow the sliding rearward of Y pipes....
I need to remove and replace the left Y pipe. To do this do I remove the rear exhausts first so I am able to slide the y pipe out? You mention that the allen bolts should be loosened, should they be removed entirely to remove the y pipe. Do the allen bolts go into a threaded frame piece or is there a nut that will drop down onto the top of the track? Do the exhaust and y pipe seperate easily or is there a trick to that also? Is it neccesary to drop the rear suspension to get the y pipes out?
Thank you very much for your information and your help.
granto211
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nvr mind went to man store an got a $2 hand pump syphon. Worked great emptyed tank in 10 min
