EXUP!

[dmaxx]

While adjusting the cables per Mr. Sleds video, the lower cable snapped before my eyes. Read lots of posts on replacement cable or exup delete. Any new input on power loss or no difference on those that removed the valve assembly or wired the valves open? If I delete it appears that I could pull this while still mounted in the sled. All input is appreciated, don't want to replace this every other year.

 

[MrSled]

While adjusting the cables per Mr. Sleds video, the lower cable snapped before my eyes. Read lots of posts on replacement cable or exup delete. Any new input on power loss or no difference on those that removed the valve assembly or wired the valves open? If I delete it appears that I could pull this while still mounted in the sled. All input is appreciated, don't want to replace this every other year.

We removed ours last year on my 2011 and did not notice any difference.

 

[dmaxx]

We removed ours last year on my 2011 and did not notice any difference.

Did you Ulmer header improve performance?

 

[MrSled]

Did you Ulmer header improve performance?

Really hard to tell it’s very slight horsepower increase it didn’t hurt it any of that’s for sure.

 

[Winderallday!]

I removed the valve assembly entirely and made up a 1/4" thick square stainless steel close out plate to mount where the valve goes into the Exup chamber with 4 screws, re-used the gasket as well. This way you can pull the cables out back to the servo motor. I have a drawing of the plate somewhere if you are interested in making one up.

 

[dmaxx]

I removed the valve assembly entirely and made up a 1/4" thick square stainless steel close out plate to mount where the valve goes into the Exup chamber with 4 screws, re-used the gasket as well. This way you can pull the cables out back to the servo motor. I have a drawing of the plate somewhere if you are interested in making one up.

Sure, that would be a help. Did you remove while still in the sled?

 

[Winderallday!]

Sure, that would be a help. Did you remove while still in the sled?

Yes, no need to remove the whole EXUP, the valve assembly pulls out easily from the side after removing the bolts. Remove cables from Servo motor and leave servo wiring harness installed, ecu doesn't doesn't know the difference.
Will PM you the sketch I made up.

 

[Stubbs]

Anyone notice any RPM difference either way? Back in the day I thought Dyno tech noted a pretty big drop off in torque (midrange) with the valve locked in the open position. Big time torque = the ability to load the engine really hard, and in turn, have fantastic acceleration. Some of this should be lost with the valve gone, no? Thoughts? Theories? Or better yet, proven experience and data to back it up?

 

[whitedust1]

Mine broke mid season and I didn't notice any performance loss. I know exactly when it broke and could feel it in the throttle cable when it snapped and my trouble light flashed the engine stalled. So I sat there and wondered wtf? I was getting ready to enter no mans land Frs so I was concerned. The engine started right up no lights no problems for 2000 miles rest of the season. In Spring my dealer found the broken cable and fixed under warranty. I won't fix it again if breaks not worth it imo.

 

[dmaxx]

Yes, no need to remove the whole EXUP, the valve assembly pulls out easily from the side after removing the bolts. Remove cables from Servo motor and leave servo wiring harness installed, ecu doesn't doesn't know the difference.
Will PM you the sketch I made up.

Well I started to remove last night and 2 of the bolts holding the plate are froze and started to strip. Had sprayed penetrating oil earlier in the day and tried a little heat from a hand-held torch. Right now I have it rigged open with a bracket I made though I would like to remove it.

 

[Winderallday!]

Well I started to remove last night and 2 of the bolts holding the plate are froze and started to strip. Had sprayed penetrating oil earlier in the day and tried a little heat from a hand-held torch. Right now I have it rigged open with a bracket I made though I would like to remove it.

Couple of suggestions, give the bolts a good crack with a drift punch in the socket head, this shock can break up the resistance of the head to the plate. Also, grind the end of your Allen wrench or Allen socket so it is sharp, tap it into the bottom of the allen head bolt for maximum engagement. These frozen bolts seem to respond better to a "shock" force rather than brute turn/twist force. I generally "bump" the wrench with the heel of my hand or use a low speed impact driver to crack it free. In a pinch, you could grind the heads off with a zip wheel/dremel wheel, typically the threads aren't seized and the bolt backs out easily, but that would be a last resort.

 

[dmaxx]

Couple of suggestions, give the bolts a good crack with a drift punch in the socket head, this shock can break up the resistance of the head to the plate. Also, grind the end of your Allen wrench or Allen socket so it is sharp, tap it into the bottom of the allen head bolt for maximum engagement. These frozen bolts seem to respond better to a "shock" force rather than brute turn/twist force. I generally "bump" the wrench with the heel of my hand or use a low speed impact driver to crack it free. In a pinch, you could grind the heads off with a zip wheel/dremel wheel, typically the threads aren't seized and the bolt backs out easily, but that would be a last resort.

I did punch the allen socket with a hammer, usually works well. Bottom one will be tough while still mounted. I will try the other suggestions. Thanks