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Finally made it to the game...

JT,
You can't just tighten those clamps to the stock bushings, they will still leak. Not near enough clamping force using the stock spacers. You need to pull the throttle body boots out clamps and all. Take the spacers out and cut them in half so they tighten up on the rubber boots tighter.

And you don't need to remove the fuel rail or anything, just the the regulator off the end so you can pull the throttle bodies up high enough to access the boots.

The Allen wrench needs to be cut much higher than you did. Like 3-4" or so long, not just that little stub you made. You wont be able to use that little short stub to access the screws decent with the socket that close.

The top bushing comes apart on the steering shaft so you can push the shaft up and get it out of the way to remove turbo intake tube and access the throttle bodies.
 

Mike....i understand. I made a 4" version of stubby. I was afraid of the part about spinning the clamps downward so once I got them loose, there's no way I'd get the barrels & nuts out without losing them.
I had to face that fact. Gave up, quitter, etc.
I can easily get back to were I was in 30-45mins.
 
jtmetal said:
Mike....i understand. I made a 4" version of stubby. I was afraid of the part about spinning the clamps downward so once I got them loose, there's no way I'd get the barrels & nuts out without losing them.
I had to face that fact. Gave up, quitter, etc.
I can easily get back to were I was in 30-45mins.
Click to expand...


Pull the throttle bodies up, remove the clamps and boots all in one, take each one to the bench one at a time. Easy Peasy.
 
snowdust said:
I’d check the wires under the fuse box for rubbing. Easy quick check.
Click to expand...
earthling said:
Just jam some rubber under the fusebox. I used a piece of innertube. It will be months before my wife tries to ride her bicycle so all good.
Click to expand...
I can see rub marks on the wire casing. No penetrations. But I found a roll of flex tape. Should do the trick.

Thanks guys!!
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Also, you can remove the left side chassis tube by the clutch cover. Two bolts, cut he zip ties holding the wiring harness to the tube. It makes getting the intake tube out easier.
Once you have done one, they aren't really that bad. Power steering sleds are even easier.
 
STAIN said:
Also, you can remove the left side chassis tube by the clutch cover. Two bolts, cut he zip ties holding the wiring harness to the tube. It makes getting the intake tube out easier.
Once you have done one, they aren't really that bad. Power steering sleds are even easier.
Click to expand...
Stain, I've invested more time than I care to talk about. Still not done. But I see your point. Probably 3hrs +/- should be enough time, once you get the hang of it.
 
Mike, I quit but didn't give up. Was exactly as you say. Barrels measure .250
IMG_20221211_092934559_copy_2048x1536.jpg
IMG_20221211_093337083_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
Mike, ty for your all your support. Both mentally & your experience.
I was definitely going to give up. For at least a month or two. Lol
IMG_20221211_100134245_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
Finished clamps & made a boost leak tester. I'll blow this up this week, just to see. Wait, that didn't come out right. Lol
IMG_20221212_092738229_copy_2048x1536.jpg

Made a patch to insulate wires from metal plate.
IMG_20221212_074642114_copy_2048x1536.jpg

Not finished with ROV delete. Any ideas on an exit strategy. Other than the foot well area. Just asking. I'd like to do a bulkhead fitting with a smooth finish dumping out the bottom. But I know how that goes.....
IMG_20221211_122144432_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
jtmetal said:
Finished clamps & made a boost leak tester. I'll blow this up this week, just to see. Wait, that didn't come out right. Lol
View attachment 170095
Made a patch to insulate wires from metal plate.
View attachment 170096
Not finished with ROV delete. Any ideas on an exit strategy. Other than the foot well area. Just asking. I'd like to do a bulkhead fitting with a smooth finish dumping out the bottom. But I know how that goes.....
View attachment 170097
Click to expand...
This is a pic that Knapp posted long ago. Most guys run the return to the outside like this to get it out of the way and to the far right of the footwell.
image1-jpeg.135444
 
Hey Mike, do you have any problems with that tape around hose, coming off?
The reason I ask is I have an interior headliner spray, that once applied it will never come off. Super tacky....
 
jtmetal said:
Hey Mike, do you have any problems with that tape around hose, coming off?
The reason I ask is I have an interior headliner spray, that once applied it will never come off. Super tacky....
Click to expand...
Sorry....cleaned rubber with detergent. It's a wrap....
 
Buy the wrap with adhesive backing - clean rubber w lacquer thinner/acetone/brake clean. Stays on very well for years.
 
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