Phazer misfire and code 34 code 33

[Old Thumper]

My wifes Phazer had a misfire / stumble at mid throttle / cruising speed. I serviced the TORS switch, I replaced both coils, I did the ground block update, I checked wires in the main harness - no improvement.
Then I found what I believe is the problem. The throttle position sensor has a bad spot right where the throttle usually is while cruising. I found it by looking at the throttle angle display in diagnostic mode. Fully closed angle was good & fully open angle was good. But when I opened the throttle very slowly while watching the angle display, it dropped to zero when the throttle was actually half open. A bit more throttle and the angle readout was back but fluctuating. Closer to fully open and the angle readout was steady and correct again. I am waiting for a new sensor to arrive so I can test it out, but I am pretty confident that this was the issue. It has been idling fine, and it would run strong at open throttle. Just stumbled at mid range. It makes sense - if the throttle is half open, but the sensor tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, the ECU is going to shut the fuel supply down, and it is going to feel just like an ignition misfire.
I wonder if more of the "misfires" that have been discussed here are actually related to the throttle position sensor rather than the coils or wire harness.

 

[Mooseman]

If it's throwing an actual code 33/34, there is a problem with the coil or the wiring. Misfires without codes could be a lot of things.

 

[Old Thumper]

If it's throwing an actual code 33/34, there is a problem with the coil or the wiring. Misfires without codes could be a lot of things.

I had no codes

 

[2stroken]

I had a misfire issue as well, it seemed to be throttle position related. I looked at the throttle position on the display and could see no issue, however I had to tear the sled apart to fix the starter issue, I went through the and cleaned all of the connections. The few times I had it out this year, I noticed zero issues.

 

[Old Thumper]

My new TPS arrived last Wednesday. When I installed it and checked the throttle positions angles with the diagnostics it looked solid. Yesterday I did a short test ride and the sled ran good. Today my wife did 70 miles on the trails and it ran great. Ya-hoo! This issue is finally resolved for us.

 

[THEPASMAN]

How do you look at the throttle angle position on the display. My kids phazer has symptoms that act the same as what yours was. It’s driving me nuts trying to figure it out

 

[Old Thumper]

How do you look at the throttle angle position on the display. My kids phazer has symptoms that act the same as what yours was. It’s driving me nuts trying to figure it out

Instructions are in the Fuel Injection of the service manual. There are manual download links in the Frequently Asked Questions thread at the top of the Phazer page. If those no longer work you can probably get a downloadable manual on Ebay.

 

[THEPASMAN]

Thanks I got it. I started a thread” 2014 phazer diagnostics “ I’m thinking I have the same issue as what you had what do you think.

 

[maim]

glad you got it. brother thinks he just got them all on my 09 phazer. had water in the tors handle bar switch and he just replaced the aftermarket coil that was on it with the second coil for it this season as it was arcing out bad.

 

[THEPASMAN]

Very much appreciate all the discussion on this site. It’s always great when stuff f’s up and I’m not the only one that it’s happened to. Like my dealer usually says “never seen that before “ been reading for two years finally signed up after three days of searching and reading about diagnostics on the phazer but nobody explaining how to get there. All you have to do is ask right. Glad I did. Thanks for the help to all that chimed in.

 

[Dynomax666]

Well I've had my first problem in 18,000kms of riding phazers.
5000 on the 14 I ride now. Today, slowly started missing here and there. Stopped, checked everything I could. Started ok (cold already as its -37 with wind chill today) once moving it really started breaking up. Being out on the trail I pulled out my phone (iPhone 6) and it was frozen. Inside pocket with a hand warmer as its second time it's happend. Crap, gotta get at least to a Hwy.

Anyway, limped home with no codes bucking and popping all the way. Approx 30kms away!! Hey, it got me home. Says a lot!! Fmf pipe on there took a pounding. 2 rivets and some packing snuck out.

Checked fuel and no seperation when set my jar outside to confirm it wasn't bad fuel.

I'm assuming it's plugs but haven't pulled them out to confirm. I will be changing anyway and 71rdrnr pointed me to "Brisk" high performance plugs. Anyone have any feedback on those??
Some feedback on similar situations without a code??





EDIT ....... problem solved after multiple troubleshooting, thinking I had it, ride and it crept up again and again. Couldn’t replicate. Diagnosed many times. To sum it up, diagnosis always lead me to variables during wire testing and ohming (mainly harness from ecu to circuits they lead to). Every time it happened results were different. PROBLEM SOLVED with completely new wiring sub harness.

Hey I'm having the same intermittent problem giving code 33 only. Seems like every time I get it I run to the plugs and by removing coils I must be making it work for awhile. Im having trouble finding this sub harness you're talking about. Is it just a lead to each coil or what am I looking for?

Such a strange and common problem it seems

Thanks

 

[cannondale27]

Mine it was connector at coil itself. Corrosion. Cleaned best I could and carefully made connectors tighter with pick been good for years now.

 

[Dynomax666]

Well I've had my first problem in 18,000kms of riding phazers.
5000 on the 14 I ride now. Today, slowly started missing here and there. Stopped, checked everything I could. Started ok (cold already as its -37 with wind chill today) once moving it really started breaking up. Being out on the trail I pulled out my phone (iPhone 6) and it was frozen. Inside pocket with a hand warmer as its second time it's happend. Crap, gotta get at least to a Hwy.

Anyway, limped home with no codes bucking and popping all the way. Approx 30kms away!! Hey, it got me home. Says a lot!! Fmf pipe on there took a pounding. 2 rivets and some packing snuck out.

Checked fuel and no seperation when set my jar outside to confirm it wasn't bad fuel.

I'm assuming it's plugs but haven't pulled them out to confirm. I will be changing anyway and 71rdrnr pointed me to "Brisk" high performance plugs. Anyone have any feedback on those??
Some feedback on similar situations without a code??





EDIT ....... problem solved after multiple troubleshooting, thinking I had it, ride and it crept up again and again. Couldn’t replicate. Diagnosed many times. To sum it up, diagnosis always lead me to variables during wire testing and ohming (mainly harness from ecu to circuits they lead to). Every time it happened results were different. PROBLEM SOLVED with completely new wiring sub harness.

Did you get that subharness right from dealer? I haven’t found it listed as a part I ordered new connectors for the coils with leads on them. Hate chopping up factory harness though

 

[74Nitro]

Did you get that subharness right from dealer? I haven’t found it listed as a part I ordered new connectors for the coils with leads on them. Hate chopping up factory harness though

I don't think the Nyrto or Phazer offer a sub harness for the coils.
The newer Apex does however. You could buy one and cut and soder as required.
#15 in this picture.

2015 Yamaha APEX SE (RX10PSFB) Electrical 1

Shop online for OEM Electrical 1 parts that fit your 2015 Yamaha APEX SE (RX10PSFB), search all our OEM Parts or call at 269-385-1540

www.cyclepartsnation.com

 

[Dynomax666]

Mine it was connector at coil itself. Corrosion. Cleaned best I could and carefully made connectors tighter with pick been good for years now.

Yes I ordered new connectors. I can’t seem to find the whole subharness. But as you were doing I was cleaning them out with a pick and noticed the #1 had more gap than #2 for whatever reason. I was getting the code for #1. In the process I noticed a broken wire on the injector. While I was at it I ordered new connectors for those as well. That one was just a matter of time before it became a problem.