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Phazer misfire and code 34 code 33

LEE337 said:
I am still experiencing the exact same thing you all have covered here. Same stumbling. Thanks for this thread and all the info in it.

Things i have tried:

Swapped Coils
Checked pins at coils
swapped ECUs
Checked pins at ECU
Retied the wiring at ECU
Cleaned airbox
Checked TPS in diagnostic mode.

All electrical connection/pins look good. Seems like it will be good for a little while then it will fall back into it. It is throwing no codes but history had 13&25 at on time. I cleared them an they have not come back.

I have put 100 miles on it so I thought I would have burned out any remnant fuel from last year. I will dump it tonight and try another set of plugs.

Is there anything I am missing?
Click to expand...
You're are checking the wrong pins. Find the 'finger' connector blocks located in multiple places along the wire harness. They are identifiable because they have he same colour wires going into them.
 

Is it only after it’s been running for awhile or does it just do it all the time?

This particular misfire I’m leaning towards a coil. It hasn’t done it for awhile now, 5-600kms. BUT what I did notice is if I let it idle on trail for a minute or two then go again it would have the misfire. But clear our after a little run. Seems to me it’s when it gets hot. To replicate that when ohming the coil, it’s always cold so it may read in spec.
It’s never done it right out of the shop.
I pull it out. Let it stand outside for awhile then do a cold start outside. Basically not pulling it out of a 85* building and into the cold. I don’t know why but thought maybe the computer reads air temp and adjust fuel settings based on that. Then you ride based on that initial start up until you stop and start again. Where it would get the much colder reading. Then run better. Might just be in my mind, I’m unsure it it adjusts “live” or not.

I can always get up to speed with that misfire.

Doesn’t seem to pop/backfire out the air box like tha main big wiring harness issue I had.

I can feel the odd one while at cruising speed. Intermittent. Can be anytime. Bumpy or smooth trail.

Paying attention to it best I can to try and figure it out to help point in a solid direction.

This misfire seems to be the big troublesome one for many because so many variables.
 
on my 09 rtx, the coil is working fine for just moving the sled around but as soon as it gets up to temp it starts miss firing. it also has the most finicky tors switch i have ever seen on a sled as it will fire off if you shift your hand at a steady throttle position cruising at 65-70 mph. i thought it was the tors firing off until i smelled the raw gas after a 70mph run.
 
Put new plugs, emptied the tank and put fresh gas in. Still stumbled. Then i let it idle for 2-3 minutes and after that it was fine. Seemed opposite of what you stated ATV PRO and maim. I let it cool and cleaned the shop, then tried again. Stumbled yet again, so i let it idle for 2-3 min. Then it ran fine.

I do not get it. It acted the same on a different pair of coils i took off a good running sled and ecu off a good running sled.
 
Maybe the air/fuel ratio needs to be adjusted? Since you tried two different ECU's, I would assume they were both set the same to stock values. Those more knowledgeable can chime in on that.

Since ignition is practically eliminated, could the injectors cause this? You mentioned that the TPS checked out in diagnostic mode.
 
Surely you are waiting for the warm up light to go off before driving it.
 
Mooseman said:
Maybe the air/fuel ratio needs to be adjusted? Since you tried two different ECU's, I would assume they were both set the same to stock values. Those more knowledgeable can chime in on that.

Since ignition is practically eliminated, could the injectors cause this? You mentioned that the TPS checked out in diagnostic mode.
Click to expand...

Yes both are at stock values. I would find it odd though that it now needs to be adjusted I have put 8000 miles on this sled. Maybe injectors?? Yes TPS did check out.
 
Without a code,
With machine running good at times (warmed up for you, cooler for us)
Fresh plugs I would lean towards a coil or weak link in harness.

Coils can ohm out fine but then heated up can show signs of failure. I still find it difficult as to why it would NOT throw a code for a mechanical failure. EVEN if it goes back in range and functions fine.

I had a very small 2-300’ of misfiring in trail other day. Brushing trail. Sat running for 1 min while i lopped a branch. Went away and fine for remaining day and following day small ride.
 
Come to think of it. I did a gear change.
Knowing my past wiring issue when I unbolted harness I very carefully bend outward (warm shop) and propped up on a jack stand. Didn’t twist, or bend hard. Was very carefull not to move around much.
Having said that, it was after that I had that misfire creep back up. Hmmmm
o_Oo_Oo_O
 
ATV PRO #11 said:
Come to think of it. I did a gear change.
Knowing my past wiring issue when I unbolted harness I very carefully bend outward (warm shop) and propped up on a jack stand. Didn’t twist, or bend hard. Was very carefull not to move around much.
Having said that, it was after that I had that misfire creep back up. Hmmmm
o_Oo_Oo_O
Click to expand...
Wiring sucks!
 
Went for a ride yesterday, ran great when it was cold but misfire above 9500 rpm. Changed one coil ordered another to change the other side as it only seems to do it when warmed up. Brainstorm today went for a small ride (above freezing out) misfire is worse hmmm. 10 years ago maim had a misfire on his rx1. Only happened after it had ran awhile(bars got warm) turned out to be water had gotten into the kill switch. when cold and water frozen ran great, once the bars heated up and melted the ice the water would cause a short and backfire/misfire even a not run condition. Pulled apart the throttle side bar switches and behold water on the surfaces inside. Cleaned it out and letting switches air dry before dielectric greasing them and reinstalling. Hope this fixes it.
 
maim said:
on my 09 rtx, the coil is working fine for just moving the sled around but as soon as it gets up to temp it starts miss firing. it also has the most finicky tors switch i have ever seen on a sled as it will fire off if you shift your hand at a steady throttle position cruising at 65-70 mph. i thought it was the tors firing off until i smelled the raw gas after a 70mph run.
Click to expand...

The TORS / Kill switch can be removed, opened up, and the contacts cleaned. I did mine - it was making poor contact when checked with an ohm meter, although the diagnostics always showed it as closed. But now that I have cleaned the contacts, I have solid continuity. I recommend taking the throttle lever off the sled so you can work on the switch on a bench rather than trying to do it on the sled and losing some small parts from the switch assembly.
 
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