Handlebar Warmer problem solved!

[ralger]

I agree. I really like the concept, but it isn't something I would be able to build myself without very detailed instructions.

 

[Bradford]

Brad,

No problem, just a small observation on my part. You did all of the hard work designing the circuit. I would add however that you may need another relay to switch the high current from the battery to the NO contacts of K1 unless you can find an existing "switched" wire with enough capacity.

How are you connecting all of the components? If you made a PC board and an enclosure for this I would bet you could sell these, especially if you had the OEM connectors to make it "plug & play".

I'm getting my constant source from the same power that supplies my heated shield which is witched but I had replace the 3 amp fuse with a 5 amp. Other guys are using power from the head lights.

I built mine on a small perf-board and enclosure that I found in the ol tickle-trunk. As for selling these, I'm a kitchen-table-hobbiest. I don't really have the time or the facilities for manufacturing and distribution. My wife likes to have the table back for meals and stuff...

 

[Blue Dave]

Brad,

Understood. Have you been able to put some testing miles on your circuit yet?

Rockmeister,

I like the simplicity of a purchased time delay relay like you described if it could accomplish the same result. Have you found one yet and been able to test it?

 

[Bradford]

I agree. I really like the concept, but it isn't something I would be able to build myself without very detailed instructions.

If anyone wants to take the project and run with it, go for it. I'll help any way I can

Brad

 

[Bradford]

Brad,

Understood. Have you been able to put some testing miles on your circuit yet?

Garage miles only! There's only 3" of snow here...

 

[Bradford]

Rockmeister,

I like the simplicity of a purchased time delay relay like you described if it could accomplish the same result. Have you found one yet and been able to test it?

Agreed! That would be ideal. Question still remains, will it make enough of a difference...

Has anyone tried a manual means of supplying the heaters with full time power? Did it make a big difference??

Brad

 

[Rockmeister]

Rockmeister,

I like the simplicity of a purchased time delay relay like you described if it could accomplish the same result. Have you found one yet and been able to test it?

Agreed! That would be ideal. Question still remains, will it make enough of a difference...

Has anyone tried a manual means of supplying the heaters with full time power? Did it make a big difference??

Brad

I have run them directly from 12v, they get very hot!
This was when it was really cold, -10 or so in actual riding conditions.
Was sick of cold hands and just temporarily wired them.

The wattage rating of your warmers really hasn't changed in 15 years or so.
They are about the same wattage as the Vipers etc.
Just HOW the power is supplied has changed.

Seeing what connectors I can get for the plug and play right now.

Will try it on the trail and see how it goes.
Not sure if I will have enough time before this weekend to get it wired for a trail test, but will try.

Still have a skid, shafts, track, hood, and lots more to do before the weekend!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698

 

[Bradford]

Still have a skid, shafts, track, hood, and lots more to do before the weekend!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698

Holy $%!& Batman! That's quite a project! I'm surprised that you find time to ride at all... I thought I did a lot when I replaced my slides and wheels.

 

[Blue Dave]

I apologize if this has already been covered, but will the ECU throw a fault code if you were to simply wire in a double pole switch to manually disconnect the ECU and apply 12 vdc directly to the grips with the ECU completely out of the circuit?

An "override" switch like this would be so simple to flip when you need extra heat (like first thing in the morning) and then you could flip the switch back to normal ECU control.

If the open ECU circuit will cause a fault code, what if you used a DPDT switch so that you could also connect a "dummy" load of some sort to the ECU while you are in "override" mode?

 

[Rockmeister]

I apologize if this has already been covered, but will the ECU throw a fault code if you were to simply wire in a double pole switch to manually disconnect the ECU and apply 12 vdc directly to the grips with the ECU completely out of the circuit?

An "override" switch like this would be so simple to flip when you need extra heat (like first thing in the morning) and then you could flip the switch back to normal ECU control.

If the open ECU circuit will cause a fault code, what if you used a DPDT switch so that you could also connect a "dummy" load of some sort to the ECU while you are in "override" mode?

I believe, and I will check this when I get a chance, that the ECU only checks for the load at start-up and when the warmers are on.
Do know that when the ECU checks, it doesn't check for the exact load, only A load.
So you can use a pretty high resistance as a dummy load.
Will check this out once my sled is back together! lol

 

[RacerDave]

I apologize if this has already been covered, but will the ECU throw a fault code if you were to simply wire in a double pole switch to manually disconnect the ECU and apply 12 vdc directly to the grips with the ECU completely out of the circuit?

An "override" switch like this would be so simple to flip when you need extra heat (like first thing in the morning) and then you could flip the switch back to normal ECU control.

If the open ECU circuit will cause a fault code, what if you used a DPDT switch so that you could also connect a "dummy" load of some sort to the ECU while you are in "override" mode?

Isn't that why MrRXL was useing a resistor in his setup?

 

[Rockmeister]

Still have a skid, shafts, track, hood, and lots more to do before the weekend!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698

Holy $%!& Batman! That's quite a project! I'm surprised that you find time to ride at all... I thought I did a lot when I replaced my slides and wheels.

Lol Thanks!
Did u check out the link?

Assuming I am able to ride this weekend, will be trail testing the cap mod again.
Last time it wasn't very cold.
It did make a big difference at idle.
Will report back my experience.

After I trail test the cap mod again, I will test the relay mod in this link.

The cap mod is the simplest fix I have seen that still uses the existing controls.
If it works out well, the relay mod may be even better using the existing controls.

Whatever I come up with, I want it to be fast, easy for people to do (low skill level required), work well, Definitely use the existing controls, and not cost a friggin mint!

The warmers are the single biggest complaint on these sleds and shouldn't be.
You shouldn't have to spend hundreds trying to fix it!
Overall, they are amazingly dependable machines and shouldn't have the hassle of cold hands.

Give me a couple weeks and I will get it tested.
(Maybe sooner, if possible)
Will try to make a unit that is plug and play.
10 minute install kind of thing.

PS Snowdog & Blubyou(think that's right!) are making the remote starts and have been helpful in finding factory connectors to make it Plug and Play, if I can get the cost down and it works well, I will make a bunch for you guys.

 

[ralger]

From the millions of threads I have read on this subject, the ECU won't check for anything if the warmers are off. So, a switch between the ECU and 12V source with the handwarmers "off", should work with no error codes. Sounds too simple to be true.

 

[Blue Dave]

If that is true then this could be as simple as a SPDT switch. If you want full heat then you would just turn off the factory handwarmers and flip the switch.

As long as you flipped the switch to "override mode" after turning off the factory controls, and then flipped the switch back to "normal mode" before turning on the factory controls you would get no fault codes.

Ideally however I would prefer the DPDT switch with a "dummy" load so that you could flip the "override" switch at any time no matter where the factory controls are set to.

Can anybody confirm what the maximum resistance the "dummy" load would have to be and how many watts would be drawn if the factory controls were set to high at high RPM's when the "dummy" load was inserted into the circuit?

Rockmeister, what is the "cap" mod?

 

[SLEDSTART]

I agree. I really like the concept, but it isn't something I would be able to build myself without very detailed instructions.

If anyone wants to take the project and run with it, go for it. I'll help any way I can

Brad

I could check with the guys making the PCB for the remote start I'm working on. They even waterproofed it. Very nice board...and all surface mount stuff...
If it's a good detailed schmatic with the part numbers of the components I am sure it can be done by them.
PM me if you want this to happen. Not like I don't have anything else to do...HA HA!