Handlebar Warmer problem solved!

[Rockmeister]

What a great idea dude!

I love the simplicity!

 

[BETHEVIPER]

Thanks rockmeister. Mine is all built and tested. Maybe I should have waited...

I don't know what the total functionality of your timer is but I assume the 1~45 second delay is an entry delay that gives you a chance to turn the alarm off before it trips. If so, what you're proposing would power the relay at some given time interval after the first pulse was detected from the ECU. I don't see how this would work. Also, how is your timer reset once it trips? The idea is to have the relay fire when there are no pulses for 1 second and to de-energize the relay once pulses are detected again. If I'm missing something here, let me know.

Brad

It is a self-resetting one-shot timer. (Think of it as a pulse stretcher.)
When it is pulsed, it makes an output pulse of the duration it is set to (1-45 seconds), no matter how long the input pulse is.
If it gets another pulse after it times out, it will do it again.

So if you wire it as I mentioned above, and set it to basically anything, it will provide a minimum one second pulse, the ECU sends out pulses faster than that, so it keeps the warmers connected to the ECU, and controlled by the ECU.

If you turn the warmers down to "off" it will time out and connect the warmers directly to 12v
Your switch will be able to over ride this full blast heat mode.

The big advantage of this that I see, is to be able to control your WARM hands with the current controls on the bars.

PS This and above is a quick off the top of my head wiring. Let me have a chance to think the failure modes through, and do a circuit test on it.

if this above switch is what he says it is, this is a way simpler, cheaper way to fix these sleds. i have a friend that has an apex that the heaters hardly work, he wont stop riding it long enough to take a look at it and figure out a bypass. i might talk him into this one though.

 

[ralger]

Bradford:

Could you please post that schematic larger. I saved the PDF and when I blow it up I can't read it. Also, any detail like the color of the wires or relays for a switched power source would be a great help. Sorry - I am an ME not a EE.

 

[Blue Dave]

Brad,

Are the transistor, resistors, and capacitors acting as a time delay to convert the wave pulse into a constant 12vdc signal to keep the relay coil energized?

If so, wouldn't you want the the ECU signal going through the normally open contacts of the relay?

 

[Kevin Garceau]

blah.... how does this sound simple to some of you folks

One thing I have never really understood is electronics. I can wire a car an do what I need to do. But Im always struggling and taking way longer to figure the stuff out than I should be.

I usually just called the old man....LOL

 

[Bradford]

Bradford:

Could you please post that schematic larger. I saved the PDF and when I blow it up I can't read it. Also, any detail like the color of the wires or relays for a switched power source would be a great help. Sorry - I am an ME not a EE.

The previous image was a JPEG. This one is a PDF.

I can post the wire colors on my sled but I'm not sure if they're the same as other models. I'm getting the constant power from the same source that feeds my electric shield. It's a plug located by the gas tank fuel level gauge wires. I replaced the 3 amp fuse with a 5 amp.

 

[Bradford]

Brad,

Are the transistor, resistors, and capacitors acting as a time delay to convert the wave pulse into a constant 12vdc signal to keep the relay coil energized?

If so, wouldn't you want the the ECU signal going through the normally open contacts of the relay?

No. I wanted the unit to be fail-safe. That's why the ECU goes through the normally closed contact. Here's the theory:

The transistor is a PNP type. The base (the connection at resistor R2) must be near 0 volts for it to turn on.

When the ECU is is sending pulses to the heaters, those pulses charge capacitor C1 through diode D1. During the off period of the pulse, C1 begins to discharge through resistor R1. By the time the next pulse arrives, C1 has only discharged to about 7~8 volts and the transistor remains turned off.

When the heaters are turned off, the ECU stops sending pulses to the heaters. C1 continues to discharge through R1. When this voltage nears 0 volts (about 1 second), the transistor switches on and energizes the relay. The relay sends the 12 volts to the heaters.

R2 protects the transistor base from excessive current

D2 and C2 form a filter that supplies clean power to the transistor.

D3 absorbs the voltage kick-back from the relay coil when it is de-energized.

 

[SLEDSTART]

Does anyone have any information on who supplies connectors to Yamaha. The are so many suppliers out there that it is like lookng for a needle in a hay stack.
I hard wired my sled, but it would be nice to have factory connectors to make it easier for anyone to install.

What connector are you looking for?
PM me...I am ordering a boatload of OEM Ignition, Brake and Fuel Injector connectors. You can use the 12V off the brake light connector from the lever. It should be fused and have some spare room. (amps)

SD

 

[Bradford]

Does anyone have any information on who supplies connectors to Yamaha. The are so many suppliers out there that it is like lookng for a needle in a hay stack.
I hard wired my sled, but it would be nice to have factory connectors to make it easier for anyone to install.

Yes... if anyone comes up with a part number for those plugs, OEM or otherwise, pass it on. They would be nice to have

 

[Blue Dave]

Brad,

Are the transistor, resistors, and capacitors acting as a time delay to convert the wave pulse into a constant 12vdc signal to keep the relay coil energized?

If so, wouldn't you want the the ECU signal going through the normally open contacts of the relay?

No. I wanted the unit to be fail-safe. That's why the ECU goes through the normally closed contact. Here's the theory:

The transistor is a PNP type. The base (the connection at resistor R2) must be near 0 volts for it to turn on.

When the ECU is is sending pulses to the heaters, those pulses charge capacitor C1 through diode D1. During the off period of the pulse, C1 begins to discharge through resistor R1. By the time the next pulse arrives, C1 has only discharged to about 7~8 volts and the transistor remains turned off.

When the heaters are turned off, the ECU stops sending pulses to the heaters. C1 continues to discharge through R1. When this voltage nears 0 volts (about 1 second), the transistor switches on and energizes the relay. The relay sends the 12 volts to the heaters.

R2 protects the transistor base from excessive current

D2 and C2 form a filter that supplies clean power to the transistor.

D3 absorbs the voltage kick-back from the relay coil when it is de-energized.

Thanks for the explanation Brad. If I understand you correctly then the 12v source must be switched at the ignition rather than being supplied directly from the battery in order to prevent the grips from being on full when the sled is shut off and your "over ride" switch is closed. Correct?

 

[Bradford]

Thanks for the explanation Brad. If I understand you correctly then the 12v source must be switched at the ignition rather than being supplied directly from the battery in order to prevent the grips from being on full when the sled is shut off and your "over ride" switch is closed. Correct?

Wow, missed that one! You're absolutely right. Thanks Blue Dave...

 

[ralger]

Brad:

If the sled is on and the hand warmers are shut off, then the 12V source will feed the handwarmers. Don't you need a on/off switch or variable control in order to be able to ever shut "OFF" the handwarmers?

 

[Bradford]

Brad:

If the sled is on and the hand warmers are shut off, then the 12V source will feed the handwarmers. Don't you need a on/off switch or variable control in order to be able to ever shut "OFF" the handwarmers?

Yes you do. There's a switch on the ground side of the circuit

 

[ralger]

I see it - sorry, I can read any kind of mechanical drawing, but not electrical.

 

[Blue Dave]

Brad,

No problem, just a small observation on my part. You did all of the hard work designing the circuit. I would add however that you may need another relay to switch the high current from the battery to the NO contacts of K1 unless you can find an existing "switched" wire with enough capacity.

How are you connecting all of the components? If you made a PC board and an enclosure for this I would bet you could sell these, especially if you had the OEM connectors to make it "plug & play".