• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Handlebar Warmer problem solved!


I'm no EE but would a heating element work? Like one that would fit inside the handle bar.(like a kettle if that makes any sense) For eg. Leave the factory ones alone. And add to the 12V power supply a totally separate element/s. Any one have any insight on elements that could fit inside the handle bar to help radiate heat to the grips, this would be added heat to the factory ones. I know they make a hole bunch of stuff that can plug into you 12V power outlet in your car? Just a thought. I'm not a big fan of cutting wires before my warranty runs out or putting added stress on the factory ECM.
I will also post this in the nytro forum.
 
Bamboo. You could add to your bar warmers. I considered buying Ski doo elements and taping them over my factory grips. You could then plug those grips into the accessory plug.
It does seen rediculous that we have to resort to these kid of measures on a $12,000 snowmobile. Yamaha always had the best warmers.

I plugged my visor into the accessory plug with the warmers on high. The current draw remained at 3.4 amps. I tried measuring the draw from just the visor and it is so low my meter would not register it. Anyone know what the draw is on an electric visor?

I ran the sled with both the warmers and the visor and the bars are perfect. It did not blow the 3 amp fuse. I am going to carry a 4 and 5 amp fuse when I field test, just in case the 3 amp won't hold.

With the sled idleing in the garage, the warmers are at a temperature that you can just hold them with bare hands. They will be too hot on warm days.
I am going to add a 8 ohm,20 watt resistor to the low side of the switch to make the warmers half as warm when the switch is in the low position.
 
Amazes me that a company with such great technology can't come up with a good handwarmer setup. I fixed my Apex a couple of years back by wiring my grips in parallel instead of series. A year later Yamaha came out with a kit that used my wiring setup but lower power grips. Last year on my Nytro they were better but I had to run handguards and wear mitts on the trail up.
 
mr rxl said:
The reason you can not use the current handwarmer switch is because it is an input to the ECM.
You could connect directly to the battery. The only problem is it wouldn't be switched.( if you forgot your hand warmers on it would kill the battery)
I am connecting a hi/low switch on my sled because the dial (potentiometer) was $80.00.
I will post more info later tonight.

How about a relay off the ignition?? ;):D , We have done this many times on sleds, but we chose to buy in the bar heaters and add them inside. You can leave the in the bat heaters on low and use your main Yamaha heaters as your control.... the in the bar heaters will retain the heat and maintain the voltage. Your hands will get so hot you will have to leave both heaters on low. In my eyes this is the only solution. I am in the process of trying the Doo heaters that rap the bar but they have a isolater between the element the bar. From what I have heard this work really really well.

As far as offering these to guys on the site.... lets hear the price and I will then determine if you are making something on them. I have no problem helping out my fellow TYer.
 
MrSled said:
mr rxl said:
The reason you can not use the current handwarmer switch is because it is an input to the ECM.
You could connect directly to the battery. The only problem is it wouldn't be switched.( if you forgot your hand warmers on it would kill the battery)
I am connecting a hi/low switch on my sled because the dial (potentiometer) was $80.00.
I will post more info later tonight.

How about a relay off the ignition?? ;):D , We have done this many times on sleds, but we chose to buy in the bar heaters and add them inside. You can leave the in the bat heaters on low and use your main Yamaha heaters as your control.... the in the bar heaters will retain the heat and maintain the voltage. Your hands will get so hot you will have to leave both heaters on low. In my eyes this is the only solution. I am in the process of trying the Doo heaters that rap the bar but they have a isolater between the element the bar. From what I have heard this work really really well.

As far as offering these to guys on the site.... lets hear the price and I will then determine if you are making something on them. I have no problem helping out my fellow TYer.

Do you have more info on " in the bar heaters" are they something that can be added and keep my OEM grips and heater elements? link??
 
MrSled said:
mr rxl said:
The reason you can not use the current handwarmer switch is because it is an input to the ECM.
You could connect directly to the battery. The only problem is it wouldn't be switched.( if you forgot your hand warmers on it would kill the battery)
I am connecting a hi/low switch on my sled because the dial (potentiometer) was $80.00.
I will post more info later tonight.

How about a relay off the ignition?? ;):D , We have done this many times on sleds, but we chose to buy in the bar heaters and add them inside. You can leave the in the bat heaters on low and use your main Yamaha heaters as your control.... the in the bar heaters will retain the heat and maintain the voltage. Your hands will get so hot you will have to leave both heaters on low. In my eyes this is the only solution. I am in the process of trying the Doo heaters that rap the bar but they have a isolater between the element the bar. From what I have heard this work really really well.

As far as offering these to guys on the site.... lets hear the price and I will then determine if you are making something on them. I have no problem helping out my fellow TYer.

MrSled. Do have any more info on the "in the bar heaters" make, model, specs, where you bought them. I really like this idea. So far to me its sounds like the best solution, with out tampering the ECM.
 
SledderSteve said:
Bamboo said:
MrSled. Do have any more info on the "in the bar heaters" make, model, specs, where you bought them. I really like this idea. So far to me its sounds like the best solution, with out tampering the ECM.
This looks like it'll do the trick: http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph200.htm
Very interesting. Two questions though. Do they work with the newer bars with the integral hook, and where do the wires run?
 
coyotekid said:
Very interesting. Two questions though. Do they work with the newer bars with the integral hook, and where do the wires run?
My own experience comes from the '06 Apex where the hooks are removable so I don't know if the cartridge will fit past the bend or not. As for the wires, a hole was drilled to pass the wires through.

Somebody else will have to take it from here. :flag:
 
coyotekid said:
SledderSteve said:
Bamboo said:
MrSled. Do have any more info on the "in the bar heaters" make, model, specs, where you bought them. I really like this idea. So far to me its sounds like the best solution, with out tampering the ECM.
This looks like it'll do the trick: http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph200.htm
Very interesting. Two questions though. Do they work with the newer bars with the integral hook, and where do the wires run?

Just went and looked at my bars and I do not think it would be possible to get them in the bars, I looked at some on www.hiperf.com and they showed drilling a hole in the bar and fishing them through. Their kit drew 4.5 amps witch seems like alot to add.
 
You have to use the flat band stlye and stuff them in with a piece of round foam for the newer style bars.

Also Yes the idea of this system is to keep the stock system stock.
 
Those would work perfect. There is enought power in the accessoy outlet to power them. Only problem is getting them in the bars.
 


Back
Top