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Handlebar Warmer problem solved!

I must say that not everyone is complaining. I for one find the 07 warmers on my GT work fine. Not as hot as the old 03 RX-1 though. They would burn your hands! I do wear a good glove, and this year am trying new Gortex ones. Hope it work out for you!
 

Mr RXL, a quick ? . Why not run a relay for power from the battery, switched on by the feed at the 12volt power point plug in. Very little draw to turn on a relay. Leaves more usuable power there?
 
Racer Dave. That will work also. The accessory conection is nice because it is right there( beside where the warmers plug in) and it is factory fuse protected.

First field test.
Broke in the new LTX this weekend. Put on 50 mile in minus 10 Celcius. With the warmers set on high, the bars are almost too hot. After about 10 minutes of riding I had to shut them off. After my hands cooled off, I rode with them on low and that was the ideal temp.

I only had a 3 amp fuse in the accessory outlet and it did not blow. The check engine light did not come on, and the warmer switch operated the shock exactly as it should.

The factory thumbwarmer, that I left factory, seemed to work good as is.

I will post a picture of the hi/low switch I installed. I am ordering some connectors and see if they match the factory conectors.

I am still going to put a kit together. There will be about $30.00 worth of pieces to put the kit togther.
 
Me too...I dont know.

Personally I dont recall any reall cold hands. I ride with a thin gloce, but its mechanized on the back sides so no wind gets to my skin really. then the gloves are thin enough to feel some warmth.

I definatly can say I have never had HOT hands.... my wifes old Vector gave her blisters one time. She does complain of cold hands on her LTX
 
mr rxl said:
It does seen rediculous that we have to resort to these kid of measures on a $12,000 snowmobile. Yamaha always had the best warmers.

With the sled idleing in the garage, the warmers are at a temperature that you can just hold them with bare hands. They will be too hot on warm days.

I am going to add a 8 ohm,20 watt resistor to the low side of the switch to make the warmers half as warm when the switch is in the low position.

Hey Rxl!

It is cool that you are trying something rather than just complaining or afraid to try anything.

I would suggest wiring the warmers in series for low and parallel for high setting with your set-up.
That way, you don't have a resistor to mess with and don't have the power loss (that is still supplied by the magneto) caused by the resistor.

Overall, as a major add-on/mod etc, I like the idea of a separate heating system IN ADDITION TO the factory system, wired in the manner I suggest above.
Either in the bar, or over the grips.
The separate system would have a high/low/off position on the switch, with the factory warmers/control providing the adjustment as Mr Sled suggested.
Better yet for adjust-ability, add the rheostat crew suggested also.

Pretty cool. ;)!
 
You said the warmers shut off when they get below 4,000 RPMS,But I find this not to be true. as I was warming my sled up today by letting it idle I turned on the warmers and they got warm,Never went anywhere near 4,000 rpms.
 
They don't fully shut-off, they run about 10% on mine at idle.
It is very possible they could be very different from sled to sled even with-in the same model as this is a programmed function inside the ECU.
 
rockmeister said:
They don't fully shut-off, they run about 10% on mine at idle.
It is very possible they could be very different from sled to sled even with-in the same model as this is a programmed function inside the ECU.
If this is a programmed function of the ECU, is it a reprogrammable function, can a remapping edit that function?
 
2008 Nytro RTX said:
You said the warmers shut off when they get below 4,000 RPMS,But I find this not to be true. as I was warming my sled up today by letting it idle I turned on the warmers and they got warm,Never went anywhere near 4,000 rpms.

I read in SNOWTECH that if you hit the brakes they SHUT OFF
 
mr rxl said:
Sceptical crewchief
The reason I have not posted instruction on this was, I have only worked on this for one evening. I read what seems like 100 pages on theories. Some of the people that posted information in the Nytro thread said they are engineers and I have verified some of the information. There were alot of knowlegeable people posting great information.
My goal was to make a fool proof plug and play solution so the average joe could easily install it.


Count me in....I want Plug and play...
 
I have all the parts but have yet to try this repair I mentioned... sorry but if you add poly heaters along with the existing, they work really well. I will try and get the Nytro done in the next week or so and post the results.

Thanks
Tom
 


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