How many have bought the Hurricane alignment tool ,and used it .?

[WinterWolf]

Yes,that is the tool,its simple to use.

Thanks Beast...think I’m gonna get it this summer.

 

[snowbeast]

Thanks Beast...think I’m gonna get it this summer.

Your welcome bro,it is very simple to use.

 

[Beerman]

how are you guys grinding them down? or are you taking it somewhere?

@krm explained how to grind it down yourself if you want, I just took mine to local machine shop to hav e it turned down, I don't trust myself with a precision grinding job.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Was a ton of info last spring in another thread on this subject. Many of us posted what we did.

I had 4mm removed off the 2ndary shaft where it sets against Jshaft bearing circlip. I had custom shims made in several sizes. I think if I did it again I would only have taken 3mm off. Basically what you want is the shaft and surface of clutch backside to be FLUSH when fully opened into overdrive MAX shift. See pics below.--Dan

Backside shaft approx 48mm

I removed 4mm

Once the shaft is machine down, reinstalled and opened to full shift(whithout spring installed) 4mm removal looks like this, just about flush. As I mentioned 3mm would have done it, but custom shims I had made allow for me to set things anywhere I want.

As a comparison, this is how it looked at full shift mockup BEFORE machining off 4mm. So this was stock.

Some thing to consider. Shown here is where the 2ndary shaft sets against. The bearing/circlip. As seen below, the bearing is set inward into the bearing bracket, so you need to be careful when machining, since at full shift there is a possibility the clutch INNER SHEAVE "could" hit the bearing bracket if one ran things with no shims AND machined down flush.

Shims I had made....This allows me to set my offset precisely. 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, .5mm
Stock shim is on the end in pic below. I got mine at 58mm or so now, only had one trip to Qc. since I did this at end of season, and that trip the belt did not blow. Will see how things go this coming season.

 

[WinterWolf]

So what you’re saying Dan...is if you machine down flush...you better run the shim(stock one anyway) ...correct?? Or when at full shift-out that inner sheave can hit the bearing bracket ultimately damaging the bearing over time.
So basically machine it to what you need, taking in to account the shim size.. so that you have that buffer/protection there for the bearing/bearing bracket...correct?

Does every sidewinder have a stock shim back there...or not?? In Dave’s Video from hurricane, he makes it sound like some have a shim and some don’t??? Or maybe I just misunderstood??? Lol.

From what you say about the bearing...it would make sense that YAMAHA would put a shim behind every secondary inner sheave as a stock set up, for just that reason..right?

 

[fatchance]

^^^Not all sidewinders were delivered with a shim behind the secondary. It's a common part and should be in stock or you can easily find it online. part #8JP-RA448-00-00 WASHER -1mm.

 

[HURRICANE]

The problem with the sidewinder clutch alignment is that no two are the same. That’s why they need to be measured and set individually

 

[ROCKERDAN]

So what you’re saying Dan...is if you machine down flush...you better run the shim(stock one anyway) ...correct?? Or when at full shift-out that inner sheave can hit the bearing bracket ultimately damaging the bearing over time.
So basically machine it to what you need, taking in to account the shim size.. so that you have that buffer/protection there for the bearing/bearing bracket...correct?

Does every sidewinder have a stock shim back there...or not?? In Dave’s Video from hurricane, he makes it sound like some have a shim and some don’t??? Or maybe I just misunderstood??? Lol.

From what you say about the bearing...it would make sense that YAMAHA would put a shim behind every secondary inner sheave as a stock set up, for just that reason..right?

The problem with the sidewinder clutch alignment is that no two are the same. That’s why they need to be measured and set individually

Exactly what Dave said. No two are the same, as shown here on forums, all seem to be different offsets. Likely mostly due to diff tolerances in sheaves, and another thing we find is the primary stub shaft bearing is never set into the outer case the same. What seems to happen is the more you blow belts, and if blown under heavy acceleration, the primary slams shut, and whacks hard enough inward that it can actually move the main stub shaft bearing inward. Some are more then others, and can be seen by the primary actually starting to rub against case.

So the fact the primary can be in further on some sleds, throws off the 2ndary offset. More the primary is inward, the more the 2ndary has to go inward to get the offset.

Daves Bar really is best as you are simply using his tool too align, and not measuring. But in the end, it seems most need to be moved inward from stock. Some get away with simply removing that 1mm stock shim, and others need to go inward more as I did, so I needed to machine mine. Having a .5mm shim made helps alot in getting it closer to where i need it with my setup. If you do machine it flush, you will want to use a shim, otherwise the sheave can hit the bearing bracket upon max shiftout. I did mock mine up before installing springs to be sure mine did not rub, as I suggest everyone does.

-Dan

 

[snowbeast]

The problem with the sidewinder clutch alignment is that no two are the same. That’s why they need to be measured and set individually

Dave your gauge works very well,you sure can see just what has to come off the shaft to make it correct.

 

[IH8CROWS]

Will this work using the tool and taking material off the shaft if needed if someone is using the OSP or Barn of parts
belt adjuster float tool on their secondary? Or would it make no difference.

 

[krm]

Will this work using the tool and taking material off the shaft if needed if someone is using the OSP or Barn of parts
belt adjuster float tool on their secondary? Or would it make no difference.

Won't make any difference .The belt adj is for belt adj.The tool is for offset .

 

[34pontiac]

Won't make any difference .The belt adj is for belt adj.The tool is for offset .

Thanks. .
I just got the tool and it appears mine is off by about 3mm

 

[Big_Phil]

I had to machine 60 thou off the back of my secondary. I was getting about 1000kms per belt before I did that, so hoping for even better belt life this season.

 

[krm]

I had to machine 60 thou off the back of my secondary. I was getting about 1000kms per belt before I did that, so hoping for even better belt life this season.

What belt ? I've had very good luck with the gates so far .

 

[Big_Phil]

What belt ? I've had very good luck with the gates so far .

Stock 8JP. Ive never had good luck with any after market belt on any Yamaha Ive owned. My brother has a Viper that made well over 400 horse on hurricanes dyno, still runs the 8JP and went to 3 separate race events all on the same belt. We were gonna change it if any sled beat us, but there was no need so we kept running it. Belt still looks good, prob has like 200 passes on it.