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How many have bought the Hurricane alignment tool ,and used it .?

Anyone running without a shim? When I take my 1mm shim out it’s right on
 

But didn’t Dan say, if you don’t have a shim in you can bottom out the secondary sheave at full shift on the Jackshaft bearing?
Or was that only if you shave the shaft down flush with the sheave??? Maybe that’s what I’m thinking?? Lol.
 
But didn’t Dan say, if you don’t have a shim in you can bottom out the secondary sheave at full shift on the Jackshaft bearing?
Or was that only if you shave the shaft down flush with the sheave??? Maybe that’s what I’m thinking?? Lol.
That's only if you mill too much off the shaft. I had 2.5mm taken off mine, now at exactly 57mm offset with no shims and it's all good.
 
That's only if you mill too much off the shaft. I had 2.5mm taken off mine, now at exactly 57mm offset with no shims and it's all good.

Ok thanks.

That makes sense. :)
 
How does it work on a clutch with wear on the sheave from idling? My clutches have 3000 miles on them so I don't know if the gauge that gets set against the inner sheave is at the correct offset.

Can someone post of picture of a new clutch so I can compare it to mine to see if it's worn in the area where the gauge rests against.
Thanks
 
I would be nice if the gauge was made so it would run up the inner clutch sheave when set in position, it would eliminate the wear on clutch from idling.
 
Warming up engine. Waiting at Road crossings. Turbo cool down . These are the times when my sled idles.
 
The gauge is designed to measure from the pad on the clutch sheave at the pin. There is not belt contact there so little wear

This is great to know.
I had question in my mind wether or not the clutches with miles on them would line up properly like the new ones would using your clutch alignment tool.

I have your clutch alignment tool also.
 
I had 1.5mm taken off mine with the 1mm shim still in there it’s now perfect.
 
I just got my hands on a hurricane tool and tested it out on my sidewinder. I haven't had any real problem with belts. I am tuned at 275 ish , geared higher, stock helix, dalton weights, dalton springs and I am not easy on belts.

But.... According to this alignment tool I will have to remove my shim and shave the back of the secondary down 2.5 mm to barely get it in spec. Im skeptical but I guess at the worst I'll have to buy more shims after I get the secondary machined if the adjustment doesn't work as planned.
 
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I just got my hands on a hurricane tool and tested it out on my sidewinder. I haven't had any real problem with belts. I am tuned at 275 ish , geared higher, stock helix, dalton weights, dalton springs and I am not easy on belts.

But.... According to this alignment tool I will have to remove my shim and shave the back of the secondary down 2.5 mm to barely get it in spec. Im skeptical but I guess at the worst I'll have to buy more shims after I get the secondary machined if the adjustment doesn't work as planned.
I just got my clutch milled 4mm and am using a 2mm shim. That's because Dave at hurricane said to use a shim. My clutch called for 2mm according to the alignment tool. It now is on the mark now.
 
I just got my clutch milled 4mm and am using a 2mm shim. That's because Dave at hurricane said to use a shim. My clutch called for 2mm according to the alignment tool. It now is on the mark now.
Thats near exactly what I did....I machined off abit more then needed and had custom shims made, as I want the ability to move it either way. Think I ended up right about 59mm when measured the YAM method.

Just gotta remember to not get too close, as things could rub at full shift....Mocked mine up and its good at 59mm but each sled is diff. Mine once machined(approx 4mm) basically is flush when mocked up at full shift(hub flush with rear sheave)

Dan
 


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