• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

How many have changed gearing on an n/a viper/7000?

First off welcome! Sorry to be a bummer but park next to the Vector and look at the differences. Thats reason its faster on top. Lower more aerodynamic and way less track angle. Not to mention if using speedo ours is more accurate. You should see 100mph stock on a perfect run,perfect conditions and a fresh belt. If not and any evidence of black on clutches go with clutching first. I am modded and geared to moon. 25/45 it does make speeds more consistent since now my clutches are not having to try to fully shift. I believe it helped on launches also since track speed is higher. That said for off trail use I would actually gear lower than stock and not worry about top speed. The gearing will not effect your clutching much if at all. But as far as clutches you must not hit Rev limiter or all speed will be lost. Thats why the 60g's worked well. There is more left in your clutches so you just need more power or better conditions for that 10 mph.
First off welcome! Sorry to be a bummer but park next to the Vector and look at the differences. Thats reason its faster on top. Lower more aerodynamic and way less track angle. Not to mention if using speedo ours is more accurate. You should see 100mph stock on a perfect run,perfect conditions and a fresh belt. If not and any evidence of black on clutches go with clutching first. I am modded and geared to moon. 25/45 it does make speeds more consistent since now my clutches are not having to try to fully shift. I believe it helped on launches also since track speed is higher. That said for off trail use I would actually gear lower than stock and not worry about top speed. The gearing will not effect your clutching much if at all. But as far as clutches you must not hit Rev limiter or all speed will be lost. Thats why the 60g's worked well. There is more left in your clutches so you just need more power or better conditions for that 10 mph.
First off welcome! Sorry to be a bummer but park next to the Vector and look at the differences. Thats reason its faster on top. Lower more aerodynamic and way less track angle. Not to mention if using speedo ours is more accurate. You should see 100mph stock on a perfect run,perfect conditions and a fresh belt. If not and any evidence of black on clutches go with clutching first. I am modded and geared to moon. 25/45 it does make speeds more consistent since now my clutches are not having to try to fully shift. I believe it helped on launches also since track speed is higher. That said for off trail use I would actually gear lower than stock and not worry about top speed. The gearing will not effect your clutching much if at all. But as far as clutches you must not hit Rev limiter or all speed will be lost. Thats why the 60g's worked well. There is more left in your clutches so you just need more power or better conditions for that 10 mph.

Cannondale27,

Thx for the reply and the info. So I understand what u are saying about the vector and I agree. But in my issue u feel there is some secondary clutch binding? ( I know they are noted for that) and I should go there first? If I go that direction I assume I will need a clutch kit from, who do you recommend ? I had a 2011 800 HO and had the issue with secondary clutch binding and they had what they call a shift assist I installed. It made a huge difference. Don’t think anything like that is made for the 2012 and up cat clutches. But I will check. I do have some black residue around the secondary. But I also have 2600 miles on the belt. ( a new one going on this year ). So give me your opinion on the best clutch kit. I will start there and make sure no secondary binding.
Thx in advance.
 

Cannondale27,

Thx for the reply and the info. So I understand what u are saying about the vector and I agree. But in my issue u feel there is some secondary clutch binding? ( I know they are noted for that) and I should go there first? If I go that direction I assume I will need a clutch kit from, who do you recommend ? I had a 2011 800 HO and had the issue with secondary clutch binding and they had what they call a shift assist I installed. It made a huge difference. Don’t think anything like that is made for the 2012 and up cat clutches. But I will check. I do have some black residue around the secondary. But I also have 2600 miles on the belt. ( a new one going on this year ). So give me your opinion on the best clutch kit. I will start there and make sure no secondary binding.
Thx in advance.
yes its called torsion conversion for cat secondaries
 
So what's a 14 ltx se have for gearing?
 
Cannondale27,

Thx for the reply and the info. So I understand what u are saying about the vector and I agree. But in my issue u feel there is some secondary clutch binding? ( I know they are noted for that) and I should go there first? If I go that direction I assume I will need a clutch kit from, who do you recommend ? I had a 2011 800 HO and had the issue with secondary clutch binding and they had what they call a shift assist I installed. It made a huge difference. Don’t think anything like that is made for the 2012 and up cat clutches. But I will check. I do have some black residue around the secondary. But I also have 2600 miles on the belt. ( a new one going on this year ). So give me your opinion on the best clutch kit. I will start there and make sure no secondary binding.
Thx in advance.
Savageman has it right. Torsional conversion. For the Cat I wont recommend any clutch kit. Dont think they need it unless hitting the rev limiter. For me riding a Yamaha I absolutely hated how the Cat Secondary would not keep up with primary after hard throttle and hard on brakes. Makes a clunk when taking off again after. That is why I went to Torsional on my 800. That condition is considered normal and is the rollers in secondary not being in contact with Helix. Torsional fixes that. Clunk is gone. Mark what you are looking for is solved with Power. When you again hit the limiter with your current 60g weights you will have found power and then clutching to get back off limiter will give you MPH.
 
So what's a 14 ltx se have for gearing?
Stock is 21 top gear and 49 bottom gear. 2.33 to 1 ratio. So geared for low end pull. If I do gearing I think I will leave the top gear, the 21 and go to a 41 in the bottom. That would put me to 1.95 to 1 ratio. But will do the torsional conversion first as the guys have recommended first. Then go for gearing after. Guys, thx again!
 
Savageman has it right. Torsional conversion. For the Cat I wont recommend any clutch kit. Dont think they need it unless hitting the rev limiter. For me riding a Yamaha I absolutely hated how the Cat Secondary would not keep up with primary after hard throttle and hard on brakes. Makes a clunk when taking off again after. That is why I went to Torsional on my 800. That condition is considered normal and is the rollers in secondary not being in contact with Helix. Torsional fixes that. Clunk is gone. Mark what you are looking for is solved with Power. When you again hit the limiter with your current 60g weights you will have found power and then clutching to get back off limiter will give you MPH.
Savage man! I will go in that direction for sure to start. Thx so much.
 
Stock is 21 top gear and 49 bottom gear. 2.33 to 1 ratio. So geared for low end pull. If I do gearing I think I will leave the top gear, the 21 and go to a 41 in the bottom. That would put me to 1.95 to 1 ratio. But will do the torsional conversion first as the guys have recommended first. Then go for gearing after. Guys, thx again!
Only do the Torsional conversion if the clunk bothers you. Many it doesnt. You obviously dont have belt issues. Dont forget the Cat clutch is designed to go into overdrive much easier than the Yamaha clutch.What I am trying to get across here is that you will not get the speeds you want without adding Power. That means the slippery slope of intake and exhaust mods or a Turbo.
 
Only do the Torsional conversion if the clunk bothers you. Many it doesnt. You obviously dont have belt issues. Dont forget the Cat clutch is designed to go into overdrive much easier than the Yamaha clutch.What I am trying to get across here is that you will not get the speeds you want without adding Power. That means the slippery slope of intake and exhaust mods or a Turbo.

So you feel not much binding if the belt is that old? ( I know the clunk u talk about). Also I have never blown a belt. As I said I was hitting the rev limiter until I put in the 60’s weights. But back to my original issue, it seems like I am running out of gear for the riding I do. I ride drag trail and on some rides we ride 20 miles of wide open rail bed. You can cruise 85 mph. Just not liking holding her 7/8 open and getting less gas mileage. Don’t get me wrong, this thing from zero to 70 is all animal. But was looking for a happy medium. Thats why I was going in the gearing direction. But I can say, right now in great condition it’s a 93mph sled with no rev limiter being hit. I ride with a guy that has the long track viper, 2016, he can hits 101 mph stock. I Looked at the gear chart and he is running about 2 to one ration on the gearing. So that was why I was thinking the 41 T bottom gear.
 
So you feel not much binding if the belt is that old? ( I know the clunk u talk about). Also I have never blown a belt. As I said I was hitting the rev limiter until I put in the 60’s weights. But back to my original issue, it seems like I am running out of gear for the riding I do. I ride drag trail and on some rides we ride 20 miles of wide open rail bed. You can cruise 85 mph. Just not liking holding her 7/8 open and getting less gas mileage. Don’t get me wrong, this thing from zero to 70 is all animal. But was looking for a happy medium. Thats why I was going in the gearing direction. But I can say, right now in great condition it’s a 93mph sled with no rev limiter being hit. I ride with a guy that has the long track viper, 2016, he can hits 101 mph stock. I Looked at the gear chart and he is running about 2 to one ration on the gearing. So that was why I was thinking the 41 T bottom gear.
Go for the gearing I like it alot for the big mile trail days. If your buddies is that much faster something is going on. Should be within 3mph at those speeds. You sure he is stock?Do you both have same flash? What is rpm at 93mph?
 
Stock is 21 top gear and 49 bottom gear. 2.33 to 1 ratio. So geared for low end pull. If I do gearing I think I will leave the top gear, the 21 and go to a 41 in the bottom. That would put me to 1.95 to 1 ratio. But will do the torsional conversion first as the guys have recommended first. Then go for gearing after. Guys, thx again!
Ltx came with 24/50 gearing .
 
Cats have lower gearing than the Yamahas because there clutches are overdrive clutches. It should end up the same on top end at least thats what I found riding with a 7000. Power was the limiter not gearing.
 
Cannondale27 , what gearing is in my vipers then . I’m thinking they have 24/50 stock in both . One is the 2015 ltx blue and orange and other is the 2016 ltx se . Both 137 with ripsaw 2 . Which gearing you recommend for 500 ft snow drag racing. Thanks for help also
 
So you feel not much binding if the belt is that old? ( I know the clunk u talk about). Also I have never blown a belt. As I said I was hitting the rev limiter until I put in the 60’s weights. But back to my original issue, it seems like I am running out of gear for the riding I do. I ride drag trail and on some rides we ride 20 miles of wide open rail bed. You can cruise 85 mph. Just not liking holding her 7/8 open and getting less gas mileage. Don’t get me wrong, this thing from zero to 70 is all animal. But was looking for a happy medium. Thats why I was going in the gearing direction. But I can say, right now in great condition it’s a 93mph sled with no rev limiter being hit. I ride with a guy that has the long track viper, 2016, he can hits 101 mph stock. I Looked at the gear chart and he is running about 2 to one ration on the gearing. So that was why I was thinking the 41 T bottom gear.

Do a little test if u don't mind, pull the belt off along with the primary cover and spring. Now push the primary in and out and see how freely it moves, you want it to slide nice and easily. The 7000 we messed with back a few years ago had a very tight primary, sled was a rocket to 85 then dead, wouldn't pull any more. Come to find out the primary was extremely tight on it and some of the contact points needed to be polished up to get it to slide more freely, once we did that went right back out and sled ran 99 mph.
 


Back
Top