Other than the stuck throttle...which Yamaha should avoid servicing entirely (no longer stock, modified machine), it seems like this stuff is quite small for a 200hp performance machine of this capability. Yeah...they missed it with the rollers. Still a small issue. Belts blowing on stock machines? 1- Your belt is too short for your present center to center distance. Get a longer belt or adjust your ctr distance to provide more deflection in neutral. If your sled creeps or pulls the motor down in neutral, you're going to break a belt on a long run with this 200hp sled. Set the belt @1/32nd to 1/16" above the secondary with the belt off of the primary initially...
no more than that with the power this engine makes, it puts too much load on the cord of the belt. 2- Turn your belt inside out, put it in the sink. Using hot water and a brush, spray
50% diluted simple green on the belt (don't worry about hurting the belt with
diluted 50% simple green unless you soak it in it over-night), get a tub brush, clean the faces and in-between the cogs with the brush. Rinse it in real hot water and brush it as you rinse it. Let it dry overnight or
carefully dry it with a heat gun...carefully. Don't get it too hot locally. Keep the gun moving fast over the belt surfaces. D
on't leave it turned inside out overnight. 3-Follow the directional arrows on the belt, if any. Once you put the belt on the clutches,
take a yellow paint marker and establish directional arrows, so the belt always goes on the way it originally was installed or you'll weaken the belt. 4- take #400 grit sand paper and dress the primary and the secondary, to remove any black or discoloration. 5- clean the mold release, oil and rubber from both clutches using
Acetone.
Clean it several times to get as much of the oil out of the porosity of the aluminum. 6- remove the primary clutch spring and the secondary clutch spring and put them back together. Put the belt on. Push the primary all the way in and put a small "C" clamp it on snug to hold the clutch and belt up at full shift. The belt will fall into the secondary when you do this. If its too tight at full shift...the belt is to short or the center distance is to wide and the belt will blow (break) on a long run. Get a longer belt or adjust your centers by moving the engine back in the chassis (this is a bitch the first time but it seems all Yamaha sleds I've own or raced...needed this to happen initially). 7- Before you run any sled, if i has an oil type filter...take the filter out and get the oil off the filter...there is no need for more than a very slight amount of oil on that filter...if any at all. If it drips, your going to blow a belt. Most of us know this stuff but we have to be willing to do it...especially now with all the power these engines make. Oh...don't bother with any other belt than a factory Yamaha Mitsubishi belt on these sleds. The 8DN was always bullet proof. Not sure about this new one but I suspect it is just a bullet proof as the 8DN. Its a very high performance sled package...it needs a little extra attention, on a more regular basis. It is what it is...and what it is, is one hell of a snowmobile that you can buy with a warranty! Just my attempt to try to help here.
.stuff happens. But it does get to you
