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Intake Valve Adjustment

smitty_j25

Veteran
Joined
Feb 2, 2015
Messages
31
Age
38
Location
Nova Scotia
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2014 SR Viper XTX
I am in the middle of doing a valve adjustment on my 14 XTX. I noticed that the clearance specs are given for 15-25C, but I am working in an unheated garage and took my measurements at about -7C, will this have much of an impact? The measurements that I got are all slightly out of spec, 0.0050" and 0.0055" (the intake spec is 0.0059-0.0087") Is it worth pulling the intake camshaft to adjust?
 

If you are doing the Exhaust anyway and I suspect you are then yes pull the intake and set them to top of clearance. (most gap) For sure. The hard part is getting at the tensioner. Rest is not difficult just simple math,cleanliness and dont skip steps. Do it once and 99% never have to do it again.
 
I'm going to remeasure the intake, currently have 2 heaters going trying to bring the sled temp up a bit. For my exhaust shims my measurements suggest that I need a 181 to 185 shim for one of the valves, would I be better off to use a 180 (increments of 5 are all I have) instead of putting it right on the right edge of spec?
 
Well that went about a badly as it could, cutting off the cable ties on the timing chain and a piece fell down beside the chain
 
Tried that, knocked it down deeper. Ended up taking the flywheel cover off, it came out along with most of the oil. That's the closest to going right anything had gone today
 
I got the cable tie out of the timing chain, but I can't get the cam shaft back into place. Going to have to pull the engine mounts and roll things forward to release the chain tensioner. Can the engine be unbolted with the header still in place?
 
I got the cable tie out of the timing chain, but I can't get the cam shaft back into place. Going to have to pull the engine mounts and roll things forward to release the chain tensioner. Can the engine be unbolted with the header still in place?
No. You will be running into the spar for Jackshaft on left side also. Have you read my post on this procedure?
 
Here
 
I've read through that one a few times, keep referring back to it. Thats how I realized I must have let the tensioner tighten, which is why I can't get the camshaft back in and now need to roll the engine. I attached my shim measurements below, I'm wondering if for #2 I should use a 1.80mm shim instead of the 1.85 that falls within spec.

1705028576584.png
 
Here
Is the jackshaft support the part that ultimately is holding the engine from lifting higher? I finally got the engine mount bolts out, and I'm now disassembling piece by piece to try and get the engine to lift
 
Perfect, I got it disconnected today. The sled is at my in laws so I get very short lengths of time to work on it
 


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