Getting rid of the roll over valve

[STAIN]

I don't want the oil in my air box/clutch but don't care to bypass the valve as I never have had a problem with it in 13k miles. I am trying to decide where to vent the hose.

Well, I jinked myself. Took the sled out for fall inspection/upgrades and my tank seal is leaking.
Upon removal, the seal looks like it was applied correctly so the valve must have frozen on one of my overnight rides.
I was going to re-route the oil line from the air box anyway, so I guess it is time to just do away with it.
I have to figure out a nice sanitary way to do this.

 

[Sevey]

I have replaced the seal twice. The final time I used the right stuff from permatex and it has held up well.

The bypass tube is the best and easiest way to deal with this.

Look on the bright side, it beneficial to clean the oil tank right out once and awhile
Ms

 

[MrSled]

I use BOP tank seals and never look back as well as bypass rollover.

 

[SumpBuster]

I use BOP tank seals and never look back as well as bypass rollover.

Me either. BOP and vent down by my foot. Im getting old. If I roll over the least if my problems would be oil running out!! Unless Im on fire too....

 

[stevewithOCD]

We've been saying it since 2017 that there are "issues" that NEED to be addressed to make this sled "trouble free"
By now there's enough smart people with the fixes that aren't that bad if done
SOOOO many people in DENIAL come on this site & say we are only the complainers or we "ride too hard" and such

I've talked to many Winder riders at stops that just didn't believe me
One guy argued with me so I took him outside to show him the OIL under his sled
He now calls me every week with questions
I told him to join TY

Good thing you got a practice ride in

 

[Upstater57]

We've been saying it since 2017 that there are "issues" that NEED to be addressed to make this sled "trouble free"
By now there's enough smart people with the fixes that aren't that bad if done
SOOOO many people in DENIAL come on this site & say we are only the complainers or we "ride too hard" and such

I've talked to many Winder riders at stops that just didn't believe me
One guy argued with me so I took him outside to show him the OIL under his sled
He now calls me every week with questions
I told him to join TY

Good thing you got a practice ride in

You can lead a horse to water....

LOL

 

[Fast]

I use BOP tank seals and never look back as well as bypass rollover.

There's been 2 or 3 BOP tank seal failures on here , I think permatex and rov delete is the best

 

[MrSled]

There's been 2 or 3 BOP tank seal failures on here , I think permatex and rov delete is the best

Honestly I have done tanks a few times and was tired of the issues with permatex still seeping after few thousand miles. Let’s face it the only way either seal would leak is do to the vent being iced over or some kinds of blockage. There is almost zero pressure if it working correctly.

 

[sideshowBob]

I did the roll over bypass, as well as many other preventative fixes, on my SW before I ever rode it. The oil tank stayed sealed on my sled for a couple seasons but then started leaking one morning after a very cold morning start. I had preordered the BOP seal so I had it ready to install. Its been a few seasons since I installed the BOP gasket and it has not leaked a drop of oil.
Worked for me

 

[SumpBuster]

I did the roll over bypass, as well as many other preventative fixes, on my SW before I ever rode it. The oil tank stayed sealed on my sled for a couple seasons but then started leaking one morning after a very cold morning start. I had preordered the BOP seal so I had it ready to install. Its been a few seasons since I installed the BOP gasket and it has not leaked a drop of oil.
Worked for me

Me too. Mine (stock)seeped after 3 yrs, puddle of oil on the floor in summer storage. Feeling the tank seam, it was dry putting away. The bop gasket seems good. I was careful trimming and making it fit as good as possible. Hard to imagine it leaking if all the bolts are torqued right. I bought an inch pound torque wrench to make sure. Or I probbly woulda wrecked it like Im prone to do!

 

[STAIN]

So this is what I did to eliminate the ROV and the line to the air box.
This is the first time I have had to do this, anyone see any problems here? I used a new piece of hose rated for oil from the tank to the elbow and the rest are the original pieces from the factory set up. The lower hose marked " heater hose " was actually the piece from the valve to the air box. Maybe some heat resistant tape?

 

[sideshowBob]

The only potential problem I see is the 90 degree elbow. It makes a nice neat install but creates a bit of a bottle neck and potential freeze up area in the bypass hose. Most of the bypasses I have seen, including mine, maintain a nice gentle curve radius where the hose changes vertical directions from up to down.

 

[fatchance]

Exactly Bob, The only problem I have ever run into with mine ( one piece of hose looped) was when I had the hose exit by the foot well and one day when pulled over trailside I noticed ice building up on the end of the 45 degree cut end. Contemplating putting a breather filter on the end and tuck it up close to the block so it gets heat while at a lunch break. This would eliminate some of the oily residue by the footwell, however I would be keeping a close eye on it when the sled sits overnight. Maybe even add a short length of clear hose before the breather and connect the hoses together with larger diameter PVC as to not restrict flow.

 

[Turboflash]

In really cold weather, I have occasionally seen some ice formation right at the end of hose if sled sits for a while (food stop, overnight). I use a small screwdriver up in the end to make sure it's open. I've had a little slush come out but never had it froze shut.

 

[KnappAttack]

So this is what I did to eliminate the ROV and the line to the air box.
This is the first time I have had to do this, anyone see any problems here? I used a new piece of hose rated for oil from the tank to the elbow and the rest are the original pieces from the factory set up. The lower hose marked " heater hose " was actually the piece from the valve to the air box. Maybe some heat resistant tape?View attachment 174336

Couple issues that I see. And I speak from experience on seeing a machine here that used a coupler to connect two hoses on the down side.

Like Bob said above, the 90 you used is a big bottle neck, and the second is the coupler you used in the middle of the hose is also a bottleneck. I've only had one sled thru here that blew the tank seal out on it after having had a coupler on it like this connecting two hoses in the same spot, I can only suspect it froze up and took the tank seal out for a second time. Another sled had a hose kink and that downward is close to kinking over time.

I've tried making the hose a 1/2" ID before and it came very close to freezing up, 5/8" never freezes or even comes close to freezing up. Even though the hole in the tank is only 1/2" ID, The fall from the loop on down needs to be 5/8 all the way thru. I learned form Louie Wirbel who installs rain gutters the the larger downward fall needs to be large and free of obstructions to keep from freezing and I believe him.

This is what I have been doing the last few years and it works out great. The 90 1/2" street elbow epoxied into another 90 elbow. Both have the large portion into the stretched out 5/8" fuel line and it makes the corner perfectly. The elbows have the same ID as the 5/8" hose and it runs straight down thru the running board with a 45 deg slash cut to the rear of the sled. Never had any sled done like this freeze up or have kinked hoses.