• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Getting rid of the roll over valve

Ok. I will change my couplers to a larger 5/8 size and try to soften the turn at the top.
 

Couple issues that I see. And I speak from experience on seeing a machine here that used a coupler to connect two hoses on the down side.

Like Bob said above, the 90 you used is a big bottle neck, and the second is the coupler you used in the middle of the hose is also a bottleneck. I've only had one sled thru here that blew the tank seal out on it after having had a coupler on it like this connecting two hoses in the same spot, I can only suspect it froze up and took the tank seal out for a second time. Another sled had a hose kink and that downward is close to kinking over time.

I've tried making the hose a 1/2" ID before and it came very close to freezing up, 5/8" never freezes or even comes close to freezing up. Even though the hole in the tank is only 1/2" ID, The fall from the loop on down needs to be 5/8 all the way thru. I learned form Louie Wirbel who installs rain gutters the the larger downward fall needs to be large and free of obstructions to keep from freezing and I believe him.

This is what I have been doing the last few years and it works out great. The 90 1/2" street elbow epoxied into another 90 elbow. Both have the large portion into the stretched out 5/8" fuel line and it makes the corner perfectly. The elbows have the same ID as the 5/8" hose and it runs straight down thru the running board with a 45 deg slash cut to the rear of the sled. Never had any sled done like this freeze up or have kinked hoses.


View attachment 174338
That is a very nice clean bypass!
 
The only potential problem I see is the 90 degree elbow. It makes a nice neat install but creates a bit of a bottle neck and potential freeze up area in the bypass hose. Most of the bypasses I have seen, including mine, maintain a nice gentle curve radius where the hose changes vertical directions from up to down.
Way too much heat in that area I would think for it to ever freeze.
 
I'm sure many here will remember the Cat two stroke sleds that had the vent from the exhaust valves. Cat had a bracket right near the exhaust outlet for the drain.
 
It's when the sled sits after riding that creates the ice blockage. The open loop hose leaves a fair amount of frothy mess on the floor after a long ride. This is the stuff that creates the blockage
Ok, I see.
 
Ok. I will change my couplers to a larger 5/8 size and try to soften the turn at the top.


Stop! I'm telling you to stop and start over and get rid of any coupler on the downspout to prevent a problem like I've seen before on a machine. Go get 5/8" fuel line and just do it right with NO coupler so it doesn't freeze and blow a seal on ya.

If you can make a big loop without any couplers great, but some hoses want to kink and why I started doing the 180 degree at the top.

If seen kinked hoses and the couplers on the downspout freeze before so do it right.
 
Knapp this will save the effort of epoxy on the 2 street fittings. They also have 5/8 OD
180 elbow.jpg


 
Last edited:
Just finished mine on the new sled. Removed both hoses from the rollover valve, pulled wires and taped, plugged the back of the air box, installed 5/8" fuel hose.
I ran the end of the hose to the bottom chaincase drain area. Tis is what I had for 5 years on my 2018, and never a problem.

bypass1.jpg
bypass2.jpg


:4STroke::rocks:
 
I have had the roll over bypass installed on my sled since the sled was brand new from advice/info from this original post in 2018 by KnappAttack.
Mike recently posted a pic of his current setup which was much cleaner then my original setup so I copied it. As always great info on our Forum!
Thanks Mike!

Pictures speak for themselves

My Original Bypass 2019 1.0

bypass1.JPG



My Updated Bypass 2023 2.0

bypass2.JPG
 


Back
Top