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just a thought to enhance performance and run cooler

Rich Kay said:
On my motocross bikes and on my current WR450 I used a silicone spray lubricant on the whole bike,,, under fenders, front of motor, radiators ect and had very little mud collect on those messy rides. Plus it keeps the equipment looking new for years. I have also been using it on my sleds over the years on the skid and front suspension and again very little snow packs and stays on the sled. PB blaster now makes a spray silicone/ lubricant that works great.... spray it on and just wipe the excess off. Hope this helps.
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I have been using spray silicone on my sleds for years. Always give a coating to the metal parts, both chassis and engine, periodically throughout the season. Got started on this by friend, whom works at local dealer.
Don't see why it wouldn't work for the above application as well.
 

Don't think removing the screen is a good idea.
But how about this... Get some of that gutter melt heat wire and do the perimeter of the screen?
 
Are those coolers getting clogged up when running groomed trails, or just when running off trail ?
 
stevewithOCD said:
My question or theory is, even if the intercooler is filled with snow or ice, would it still cool air. Basic physics tells us that if the intercooler is iced up, then the ice/snow will transfer it's temp, about 32ish or lower, to the fins then will still cool the air. Maybe not as good as free flowing intercooler, but will it rob us of huge power. I'm not that concerned because i feel this sled will make me very happy, BUT if my intercooler is clogged & we find it robs us of power then maybe that's the moment to not race/get spanked by average Joe...just curious for general knowledge in my clogged up head...
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So...heat exchangers are engineered or sized, based on a calculated heat load average. Since every possible variable in temperature change is impossible to predict, engineers estimate the heat load average. The number of rows, fins and core volume determine the heat exchanged to the air from the media being cooled. That is the total surface area available for heat exchange to air. Heat exchangers rely on that surface area and air flow across the surface to transfer heat and lower the charge temperature. High heat of vaporization liquids, like water or better...methanol for example, sprayed on the fins will improve heat transfer based on nucleate evaporation or boiling. In the case for a snowmobile, two things play in its favor and one thing goes against its favor. Favorable conditions include cold ambient temperature operation and the conversion of snow dust to liquid. The are both favorable to maximum heat removal from the charge air. The unfavorable condition is, "the water from the melted snow dust turns to ice". Once air flow across the surface area of the exchanger drops or stops due to ice...the charge temperature goes up, EVEN though the plugging media is cold ice. The reason for this is related to surface area contact and the propensity for ice to lose contact with the fins as it melts, while plugging the free flow of air across and through the fins of the exchanger. Yes, as it melts, water is generated but it can't nucleate boil quick enough to be efficient because the temperature is relatively low for rapid boiling and simply runs off the surface or refreezes. The heat exchanger must be kept free of ice for maximum power output.
 
The other question about the rise in charge temperature and power? As the charge temperature rises, from a plugged inter-cooler, hot turbine or charge tube, the air gas molecules become more active as the temperature rises. Because of the stimulated molecular activity of the air gas entering your engine (higher temperature air gas), the molecular number density goes down for the same volume and pressure. When this happens, the power output of the engine drops, EVEN though the turbine pressure is the same. There are closed loop adjustments from the engine sensors that work to minimize that power loss but COLDER means more power...all things equal.
 
Frozenstiff said:
Are those coolers getting clogged up when running groomed trails, or just when running off trail ?
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Only if your following a sled that is throwing up snow dust if your in front then it doesnt clog. Just from my experience recently.
 
T-Mod said:
So...heat exchangers are engineered or sized, based on a calculated heat load average. Since every possible variable in temperature change is impossible to predict, engineers estimate the heat load average. The number of rows, fins and core volume determine the heat exchanged to the air from the media being cooled. That is the total surface area available for heat exchange to air. Heat exchangers rely on that surface area and air flow across the surface to transfer heat and lower the charge temperature. High heat of vaporization liquids, like water or better...methanol for example, sprayed on the fins will improve heat transfer based on nucleate evaporation or boiling. In the case for a snowmobile, two things play in its favor and one thing goes against its favor. Favorable conditions include cold ambient temperature operation and the conversion of snow dust to liquid. The are both favorable to maximum heat removal from the charge air. The unfavorable condition is, "the water from the melted snow dust turns to ice". Once air flow across the surface area of the exchanger drops or stops due to ice...the charge temperature goes up, EVEN though the plugging media is cold ice. The reason for this is related to surface area contact and the propensity for ice to lose contact with the fins as it melts, while plugging the free flow of air across and through the fins of the exchanger. Yes, as it melts, water is generated but it can't nucleate boil quick enough to be efficient because the temperature is relatively low for rapid boiling and simply runs off the surface or refreezes. The heat exchanger must be kept free of ice for maximum power output.
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Thats exactly what I said. ;)
 
If this was true Yamaha would have changed the design? Just look at all the pictures of pre production and you can see snow and ice packed in front. Warm can of beer in front of fan or in bag of ice witch will cool,quicker? 2nd their is a solid plate behind cooler so how much air flow are we getting anyway?
 
My Sidewinder left me stranded today due to overheating issues every 200 feet.. It would retard power and I would shut it down for 15 minutes and again within 200 feet the temp light would start blinking again..Sled doesn't even have 300 miles on it..also outside temps in Northern Maine were in the teens. Thank god my son was with me riding my wife's Viper and we took that back to the truck and had to go pick up the Sidewinder and trailer it back to the hotel. I hope this is not going to be an ongoing problem. A guy in the Mountain Sidewinder forum is having the same problem with only 15 miles on his.
 
ctdmax said:
My Sidewinder left me stranded today due to overheating issues every 200 feet.. It would retard power and I would shut it down for 15 minutes and again within 200 feet the temp light would start blinking again..Sled doesn't even have 300 miles on it..also outside temps in Northern Maine were in the teens. Thank god my son was with me riding my wife's Viper and we took that back to the truck and had to go pick up the Sidewinder and trailer it back to the hotel. I hope this is not going to be an ongoing problem. A guy in the Mountain Sidewinder forum is having the same problem with only 15 miles on his.
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Christ they're probably still putting in 100% glycol. Anyone test the coolant yet? Are you posting this here because the front was a block of ice?
 
actionjack said:
Christ they're probably still putting in 100% glycol. Anyone test the coolant yet? Are you posting this here because the front was a block of ice?
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Not sure about the block of ice thing..if that is the case it sounds like a poor design.
 
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