Let's talk studs

[Blue Dave]

I just purchased the Turbo Dynamics Powertrail package with the Turbo Force Muffler and the cold air intake (275 HP).

Ben at TD said I can run 1.500" studs if I use the STM tunnel protectors & rear heat exchanger protectors and keep my track from getting too loose. I will probably take Rocker Dan's recommendation and go with 1.450" to be safe although 0.050" is not that much of a difference.

Ben said not to overstud and that 144 down the middle will be fine. The big thing apparently is the STM protectors which are much thicker and cover more of the tunnel compared to the Yamaha protectors. They are a bit spendy but so is stud damage.

If I keep all of my studs in the middle between the rails do I really need a 4th wheel kit?

 

[**sj**]

I just purchased the Turbo Dynamics Powertrail package with the Turbo Force Muffler (270 HP).

Ben at TD said I can run 1.500" studs if I use the STM tunnel protectors & rear heat exchanger protectors and keep my track from getting too loose. I will probably take Rocker Dan's recommendation and go with 1.450" to be safe although 0.050" is not that much of a difference.

Ben said not to overstud and that 144 down the middle will be fine. The big thing apparently is the STM protectors which are much thicker and cover more of the tunnel compared to the Yamaha protectors. They are a bit spendy but so is stud damage.

If I keep all of my studs in the middle between the rails do I really need a 4th wheel kit?

yes 4 wheels is recommended and replacing the tri hub entirely is even a better long term plan (see 4 wheel kits) ...

are you lining up and racing where you want to hookup from a dead dig? is there the possibility you could ever use anti lag? then if yes...you need more and longer IMHO

Ive posted many times my pattern etc ...192 x 1.64's with no protector add ons needed!

 

[bleedyamaha]

I am running 1.450’s as well with same pattern with plastic backers. Only I went almost all the way to the middle to give me more scratch marks. I only have 400 miles on my sled and zero marks on the the vent louvers up front.

 

[Sledroll]

I am reviving this old thread rather than starting a new one. I am about to pull the trigger on trading my 2015 SR Viper RTX DX in on a 2017 Sidewinder LTX DX. I am also thinking about adding the 270 HP Turbo Dynamics kit.

1) How many "panels " (areas between the lugs where the studs mount) are there on this 137" track?
2) How many studs should I run if I only utilize the middle section of the track? (I have had bad luck in the past with pull outs when I studded the outsides)
3) What length studs should I run? (I ran 1.375" Fast Trac Top Gun II 's on my RTX DX Viper which worked well).
4) Should I avoid the "quiet track" raised pads so that the stud heads pull down completely flush? (I noticed this issue when I studded my Viper)
5) Do I need heat exchanger protectors?


Thanks in advance guys for your help!

144 1.5" in the middle , yamaha tunnel protectors.
ALL good !

 

[**sj**]

1.64's ....all stock tunnel protectors...max hook...no marks on header vent!

 

[Blue Dave]

yes 4 wheels is recommended and replacing the tri hub entirely is even a better long term plan (see 4 wheel kits) ...

are you lining up and racing where you want to hookup from a dead dig? is there the possibility you could ever use anti lag? then if yes...you need more and longer IMHO

Ive posted many times my pattern etc ...192 x 1.64's with no protector add ons needed!

Please post your 192 pattern. Is it for the 137" track? I am shocked that you can run 1.64" with no protectors on the tunnel and rear heat exchanger.

 

[**sj**]

Get the pattern tool from Bruce at cb performance.... take some tape to the template and block off holes number 6? To the center on each side ... about 3.5"... stud every outside varying between the holes available.... and varying the inside .. so 1 and 1 then next row 2 and 2 etc .... use a fine tipped white out pen.... this will all make sense when you have the pattern tool in your hands...

 

[1100saber]

I ran 132.7 mph in 1320' on plowed ice with 48 studs lol. Ya would be surprised how well penetration works vs quantity.

 

[**sj**]

I know I do a different kind of running than a lot of canadians who are doing radar runs mostly...at least for me...its all about the launch....1/4 mile max.....very occasionally a top speed run......but if I was mostly doing top speed runs......agree only need minimal traction not to break loose....

for others who might want to run a low amount of studs and launch it hard...be prepared for a tear out and possible worse..

 

[1100saber]

Definetly a roll on with 48 studs. I trail rode last year with 4 per bar. This year going down to 3 per bar, but running triggers vs the gold diggers of last year

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Tear outs has as much to do with too long of stud as it does quantity, and for that matter the quality of the base you ride on....I agree more penetration kicks butt for hook, but for trail riding when you start running over 1.450, you are asking for PUSH on hard trails, and more tearouts, and the outers are more vulnerable to tearouts and increase push on twistys.

Running the radar track in NB vs drag racing in fields, vs trail riding tight trails...Guys reading this who are novice need to understand that you really need to ask yourself what type of riding you do MOST, and what do you want from your sled. Prioritize your needs too. Then take all this good info on here and you should get your answer.

You can see this any weekend when a trail studded sled is brought to the track, and watch him barely hookup at take off...I would want a totally different stud to run NB track, vs what I run on trail. As Saber showed, the trigger(or other lake/ice stud) is what you want for serious penetration on ice. But I can guarantee you that design wont be the best bang for buck on longevity and remaining sharp on trail riding. Its all about what you want out of your sled.

Dan

 

[1100saber]

Exactly Dan. It's the weirdos like me that swap studs depending on what I'm doing on that particular day. In my old big bore firecat days I could just swap the whole track and gears in an hour...on the sidewinder not so much...so a crack a few cold ones and swap out studs

 

[ROCKERDAN]

LOL, Yeah I hear ya bud....

I would love to have a sled setup for the track, and just another trail sled.

Looking forward to this winter, things are just getting interesting with these Sleds!

 

[**sj**]

Ive run right around 200 of the longest studs allowable per chassis...and have corner burned with the best of them....and havent had a tear out in over 25 years...and in some cases like my 2011 z1 turbo BOOSTED the first 400 miles were lake racing.....pull outs come from under capture on the track matt (deflection) and under studding...some brands of studs are more prone to this because of the higher shoulder (woodys)

 

[Motorhead]

Tear outs for me have to do with early and late year trails mostly! If one can wait until the trails are frozen
and they have a good base, well chances are much better of retaining all studs in your track. So yes agree 100% “Quality of the base you ride on” and length. Deeper paddle on track = longer studs!!!

Have you ever Seen a stud stuck in a tree root that crosses the trail during low snow conditions. Much like driving a nail in a tree, it wants to stay put, it may come out or it may stay put and pull through. I have seen them and thought, O boy somebody just harmed a track, and then again I have been on that end many times myself. Even if it just tears instead of pulling through, first WOT run and tic tic tic boom. Very easy to check your track while loading in trailer, I do it every time I load when I run studs to stay ahead of tears and pull thru. Just can’t wait for perfect conditions around my area.