ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Can't answer that one, never re-raced anyone. You know yourself what your sled should sound like when wound out, mine don't scream like it used to. Doesn't sound too bad at 10,300 rpm but once it declines to 10,000 it sounds gutless......it's..so..so.. sad. I want my o'l girl back!!!!! lolkviper said:
Is it possible to have a weak fuel pump? Kviper, is there anyway to check the fuel pump as I cant afford to replace every thing on the sled? hahahahaha!!!!
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nope, not going through oil. The oil is looking pretty frickin dirty since I have been using ring free on every tank though!!! It must be doing it's job cleaning carbon deposits, lmao!!!tomanytoyz said:
Oh ya, 8,700 miles......wheres the fuel vent hose? Is that the over flow hose off the top of the tank?
kviper
VIP Member
Yes you can pick up a cheap gauge and install it in line and run it with panels off so you can watch it. Not sure on the pressure on your sled but some one in here or your dealer should know. 47PSI rings a bell. Sounds like a fuel or ignition issue! I think if it was mine I would get a friend to tow me back after a WOT pull and check plug's, than you will know if your looking at fuel or somthing else.ranger1 said:
Yes the overflow hose.make sure its open not partially closed off or pinched.
Also check main line too
It sounds like a fuel delivery issue.
Its one thing if it doesnt reach 10,700 but it does ,then backs down ? Crazy that it was your exhaust before ,now wtf?
Also check main line too
It sounds like a fuel delivery issue.
Its one thing if it doesnt reach 10,700 but it does ,then backs down ? Crazy that it was your exhaust before ,now wtf?
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
tomanytoyz said:
Now I am not really sure the crack in the exhaust was the culprit, might just have been a coincidence that it ran perfect after I fixed the crack, lol!!!..........hence
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Kviper, you mean 47psi from the air compressor, then zero out the gauge & then test each cylinder to find out the % of leakage? Whats the max % amount of allowable leakage?kviper said:
kviper
VIP Member
No the 47 psi is for fuel Line pressure. put a gauge in the fuel line that goes from the tank to the fuel rail. with the key on and the pump runs you should have 47 psi in that line, not sure on the pressure though or what it should maintain for pressure at WOT.
As I said though I would do a plug check first and maybe that would tell you if you need to look in the fuel direction or some where else. Another thing I just thought of! Are your boots between the throttle body's and air box all on good? I have heard over the year's of a part of the boot rolled over and sucking air, usually use a small extendable mechanics mirror and flash light to check them. when the dealer set my 12 Apex up new they had one rolled over!
I think they like around 7% on the leak down test if you get that far.
As I said though I would do a plug check first and maybe that would tell you if you need to look in the fuel direction or some where else. Another thing I just thought of! Are your boots between the throttle body's and air box all on good? I have heard over the year's of a part of the boot rolled over and sucking air, usually use a small extendable mechanics mirror and flash light to check them. when the dealer set my 12 Apex up new they had one rolled over!
I think they like around 7% on the leak down test if you get that far.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ooooops, Kviper, guess I lacked reading the quote you posted on, I thought you were talking cylinder/valve leak down test,lol. Ok, fuel pressure, got e'r now, thanks!!!
OK well will it shut down after the sled is warmed up by pluggin the tail pipes ? check that again before you go to far ! lolranger1 said:tomanytoyz said:
Now I am not really sure the crack in the exhaust was the culprit, might just have been a coincidence that it ran perfect after I fixed the crack, lol!!!..........hence
Make sure its warmed up,even do a lap around then check.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
That was the first thing I checked after the rpm's were back doing the same damn thing. It didn't stall but it almost did. Maybe I didn't plug it long enoughtomanytoyz said:OK well will it shut down after the sled is warmed up by pluggin the tail pipes ? check that again before you go to far ! lolranger1 said:tomanytoyz said:
Now I am not really sure the crack in the exhaust was the culprit, might just have been a coincidence that it ran perfect after I fixed the crack, lol!!!..........hence
Make sure its warmed up,even do a lap around then check.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ok, I thought I would post an up date on my current situation.
Finally ended up taking my sled to my local dealer as he said they had a used Apex that they could swap parts out & try on mine, process of elimination. I got them to do a fuel pressure test, checked out ok, throttle bodies are opening up, leak down test was ok although that one cylinder was 5psi down on compression, they swapped out both clutches even though I said I knew it couldn't be the clutches as I already had them apart, cleaned, inspected & replaced the springs, they tried different coils also, nothing changed, when they tried it out in deep snow the tach was now going below 10,000 rpm!!!!! Couple hundred bucks later....nothing!!!!
I have never been so fricken frustrated about anything in my fricken life!!!!!!!!!!
Finally ended up taking my sled to my local dealer as he said they had a used Apex that they could swap parts out & try on mine, process of elimination. I got them to do a fuel pressure test, checked out ok, throttle bodies are opening up, leak down test was ok although that one cylinder was 5psi down on compression, they swapped out both clutches even though I said I knew it couldn't be the clutches as I already had them apart, cleaned, inspected & replaced the springs, they tried different coils also, nothing changed, when they tried it out in deep snow the tach was now going below 10,000 rpm!!!!! Couple hundred bucks later....nothing!!!!
I have never been so fricken frustrated about anything in my fricken life!!!!!!!!!!
kuvasz
Expert
somethings loading up the motor. it's not he motor itself it's something on the drive train. when you take the belt off and have the sled jacked up does everything turn freely, i mean super freely? i've had my sled do this a couple of times. first it was a little piece of metal that got stuck in the slide of the primary i run. second time is when i changed my helix i had to take weights out of the clutch. third time the brake rotor warped and dug into my saddle.
what setting do you have your secondary set at? what happens when you change the setting, will it change the rpm by 200 the way it's supposed too? will it maintain the rpm or does it keep dropping?
where are you in northern ontario? if you want send me a pm.
what setting do you have your secondary set at? what happens when you change the setting, will it change the rpm by 200 the way it's supposed too? will it maintain the rpm or does it keep dropping?
where are you in northern ontario? if you want send me a pm.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
On the track stand the track creeps a bit at idle like I like it. When I know I am going to be running deep snow I wind the secondary up to keep the RPM's up. It does increase a couple hundred rpms then drops off to just over 10,000. Quick fix but not permanent fix. When I am trouble shooting the problem I put it back to where it is supossed to be.kuvasz said:
If I am reading this correctly, you are loosing the rpm in deeper snow?? this is normal from the apex in stock form. used to piss me off as none of the Polaris ever changed rpm from hardpark to deep..(this is how it should work). two things that I found to help are ulmers clutch kit, or a "team" secondary clutch. If I am reading your problem wrong, then sorry......and carry on
