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Ltx se blowing belts

ROCKERDAN said:
Gates CC or Dayco or stock 8JP wont last....

I blew all my belts before going to the Ultimax, then got entire season from Ultimax and never blew.

Dan
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I understand blowing belts with power these make how many miles were you getting on other belt compared to ultimax
 

Sledbrapping88 said:
I understand blowing belts with power these make how many miles were you getting on other belt compared to ultimax
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8jp pretty much under 100.....also those stock belts are ultra grimy,dirty running...never seen to much belt dust.

XTX and Gates longer lasting up to 400-600 miles depending on how hard they were treated, gates would delaminate the top cog.

Ultimax just always kept going....I read same thing over on 850 doo site so I will continue to run Ultimax on every sled going forward. Typically gotta lighten up weights too, as they grip so well.

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
8jp pretty much under 100.....also those stock belts are ultra grimy,dirty running...never seen to much belt dust.

XTX and Gates longer lasting up to 400-600 miles depending on how hard they were treated, gates would delaminate the top cog.

Ultimax just always kept going....I read same thing over on 850 doo site so I will continue to run Ultimax on every sled going forward. Typically gotta lighten up weights too, as they grip so well.

Dan
Click to expand...

I'm definitely going to try ultimax belt how many miles you have on xs 825 before blowing it
 
Sledbrapping88 said:
Recently tune my sidewinder with hurricane ss sm tune bundle and had dave align clutches which had to machined the shaft on secondary clutch. I also had them look over my clutches for wear or defect everything good they installed dtay-1 set at 78.5 grams with blk/org secondary wrapped 6-3. So got chance to ride the sled within 100 miles I blew 2 belts before all work I've only blew 1 belt in 600 miles. The only thing I've changed from when it left dave shop was took out the shimwasher had add last year to set deflection. Sled belt was to tight with other washer and would not allow the sled to go in reverse. So I removed it to loosen deflection other than that nothing changed other belt swap which was gates and stock belt. Any suggestions.
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I tested this same clutch setup after updating to SS tunes. We have marginal snow but I was able to do a few 1000ft pulls. Primary was normal warm but the belt and movable secondary were on the verge of hot. My xs825 has 1000mi on from last year and is a good belt choice IMO. I had to empty the DTAY1 to get RPM back up. I liked the 6-3 setting but I'm going back to 6-2 for now to ease up on the belt a bit and has worked for me last year. For whatever reason the alignment bar says I should be at 59.5 offset but 58.5 makes less heat. I run very little float.
 
SPM said:
I tested this same clutch setup after updating to SS tunes. We have marginal snow but I was able to do a few 1000ft pulls. Primary was normal warm but the belt and movable secondary were on the verge of hot. My xs825 has 1000mi on from last year and is a good belt choice IMO. I had to empty the DTAY1 to get RPM back up. I liked the 6-3 setting but I'm going back to 6-2 for now to ease up on the belt a bit and has worked for me last year. For whatever reason the alignment bar says I should be at 59.5 offset but 58.5 makes less heat. I run very little float.
Click to expand...

What ss tune you running and is that 1000 miles with a tune does 6-2 give less engine brakin.
 
Sledbrapping88 said:
What ss tune you running and is that 1000 miles with a tune does 6-2 give less engine brakin.
Click to expand...
I have the SM bundle and tuned from day one. I run the 240hp most of the time with fuel I have available. The small amount of testing I did I didn't really notice much difference in engine breaking at 6-3 but I liked how the secondary back shifted there. The only reason I'm going back to 6-2 is because I got a little nervous about the temps and I know 6-2 worked for me last year. I'm sure I'll give 6-3 another try in the future. I also added some vents like ALOT of guys have with good results.
 
Some are having better success using the XS825 belt which has been said. I've not tried on on the snow yet myself.

Turn it down to 240 and you'll be fine with that black/orange. The 240 tune runs happily without blowing belts. 270 and up, not so much without a ton of testing and hair loss. I've actually run my best speeds on the 240 tune. The big tunes slip the belt too hard it's hard to imagine it can be so severe. One day you think you have your clutching perfected on the big tunes, and the next day it warms 10-15 degrees and its smearing belt on the clutches again, hence the hair loss because you'll pull it out.

I've never ever been able to run any speed using the black/orange on 270 and up without SEVERE slippage. How others can use the black/orange on the roller driven is beyond me. I can not exceed 105 MPH decently with it on the big tunes on the trail in snow, 240 tune I can zip past 125 without problem on the black/orange. I have to wrap up the Dalton Cat white on the 270 tunes to exceed 120MPH with the big tunes, if I back it off at all, it will not run any speed because of belt slippage. I still struggle cording belts and wearing out primary rollers prematurely with the winder clutches.

A lot of guys finding much better success using Viper secondary and after testing it on my drill press scale, its easy for me to see how and why now. Using the black/orange in the Viper secondary and applying pressure, is like using the stiff Dalton Cat White (green stock cat) spring in the winders rollers clutch. So takes a lower pressure spring in a viper secondary, to equal a heavier spring in the winder roller secondary when accelerating and up-shifting. It sounds crazy but I tested and re-tested it over and over and it true, the scale doesn't lie. The smaller diameter viper helix must be having an effect on increasing the side pressure as well. The black/orange in the viper measures up around 290 lbs of side force with a 51/43 helix fully shifted out set at 70 deg., with a 35 helix in the Winders roller clutch the black/orange set to 70, it only measures about 235 lbs of side force fully shifted out. For comparison, a Cat green is about 290 lbs on the Winder roller set on 0-1. When letting off, the pressure the Viper button clutch reduces pressure more than the Winders roller driven clutch does, thus making belt life more livable without heavier springs and keeping the belt intact and living an easier life than what is had on the winders roller driven.


Soon I will be using a Viper button secondary/RX-1 primary and the XS825 both in hopes to run the bigger 270 and up tunes with success finally and keep rollers/belts from wearing out prematurely. I've tested the Winder stuff for years now and have got to go a different route, because it's a complete waste of time trying to make belts and rollers live with the stock clutches consistently. Maybe the XS825 would be the answer as I have not tired that combo with the winder clutches, but I'm sick and tired of eating rollers and throwing good money away and running the winder clutches. Its time for me to either run on only the 240 tune or try the Viper clutches. And who wants to run on only 240 when you have more power in the flasher right?
 
How you guys indicating that's its slipping are there marks on secondary
KnappAttack said:
Some are having better success using the XS825 belt which has been said. I've not tried on on the snow yet myself.

Turn it down to 240 and you'll be fine with that black/orange. The 240 tune runs happily without blowing belts. 270 and up, not so much without a ton of testing and hair loss. I've actually run my best speeds on the 240 tune. The big tunes slip the belt too hard it's hard to imagine it can be so severe. One day you think you have your clutching perfected on the big tunes, and the next day it warms 10-15 degrees and its smearing belt on the clutches again, hence the hair loss because you'll pull it out.

I've never ever been able to run any speed using the black/orange on 270 and up without SEVERE slippage. How others can use the black/orange on the roller driven is beyond me. I can not exceed 105 MPH decently with it on the big tunes on the trail in snow, 240 tune I can zip past 125 without problem on the black/orange. I have to wrap up the Dalton Cat white on the 270 tunes to exceed 120MPH with the big tunes, if I back it off at all, it will not run any speed because of belt slippage. I still struggle cording belts and wearing out primary rollers prematurely with the winder clutches.

A lot of guys finding much better success using Viper secondary and after testing it on my drill press scale, its easy for me to see how and why now. Using the black/orange in the Viper secondary and applying pressure, is like using the stiff Dalton Cat White (green stock cat) spring in the winders rollers clutch. So takes a lower pressure spring in a viper secondary, to equal a heavier spring in the winder roller secondary when accelerating and up-shifting. It sounds crazy but I tested and re-tested it over and over and it true, the scale doesn't lie. The smaller diameter viper helix must be having an effect on increasing the side pressure as well. The black/orange in the viper measures up around 290 lbs of side force with a 51/43 helix fully shifted out set at 70 deg., with a 35 helix in the Winders roller clutch the black/orange set to 70, it only measures about 235 lbs of side force fully shifted out. For comparison, a Cat green is about 290 lbs on the Winder roller set on 0-1. When letting off, the pressure the Viper button clutch reduces pressure more than the Winders roller driven clutch does, thus making belt life more livable without heavier springs and keeping the belt intact and living an easier life than what is had on the winders roller driven.


Soon I will be using a Viper button secondary/RX-1 primary and the XS825 both in hopes to run the bigger 270 and up tunes with success finally and keep rollers/belts from wearing out prematurely. I've tested the Winder stuff for years now and have got to go a different route, because it's a complete waste of time trying to make belts and rollers live with the stock clutches consistently. Maybe the XS825 would be the answer as I have not tired that combo with the winder clutches, but I'm sick and tired of eating rollers and throwing good money away and running the winder clutches. Its time for me to either run on only the 240 tune or try the Viper clutches. And who wants to run on only 240 when you have more power in the flasher right?
Click to expand...

How do you indicate that its slipping are there marks on secondary sheaves. I did do one test run with 8jp on
plowed road came into easy then got onto it and seen 121 on speedo but the they was no resistance hold anything back so less load on belt/clutches and yah I'm going to be really annoyed if I cant run 270 tune most of the time because of something stupid like this. So does cat spring where on other clutches parts or is it still slipping
 
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