Ltx se blowing belts

[KnappAttack]

You know it’s slipping and not happy when it blows and cords belts. Like I said, life is good on 240 with the winder clutches. Life is tougher trying to run 270 and above.

On 270 one day the clutches look fantastic and you think you have a perfect clutching setup, thing is working mint, the next day it warms up 10-15 degrees and they look like this.

Yep, changing primary rollers AGAIN as can be seen above too! Another famous trait you'll get used to trying to run big tunes on the winder primary.


Below you can see the severe slippage in top end runs on the snow. Was using 8DN belt here, at least it only corded again and didn't blow like the 8JP's do.

 

[Sledbrapping88]

You know it’s slipping and not happy when it blows and cords belts. Like I said, life is good on 240 with the winder clutches. Life is tougher trying to run 270 and above.

On 270 one day the clutches look fantastic and you think you have a perfect clutching setup, thing is working mint, the next day it warms up 10-15 degrees and they look like this.

View attachment 151553

Yep, changing primary rollers AGAIN as can be seen above too! Another famous trait you'll get used to trying to run big tunes on the winder primary.


Below you can see the severe slippage in top end runs on the snow. Was using 8DN belt here, at least it only corded again and didn't blow like the 8JP's do.

View attachment 151554

Yah your can definitely tell by your pics its slipping I'm not sure if mine look like that will have to look mine belt didn't blow in top end it was initial whack of throttle when it blew into pieces.

 

[1nc 2000]

Can you explain how this would happen and is there a fix for th

Check this out.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/tunnel-dammage-due-to-ice.157153/

 

[iceback]

Knap
That looks like a copy of my clutch photos , Lol .
270 tune with the same marks , but on mine I had marks only on inside sheave both Primary and Secondary , Odd ?
Since I have removed 33/35 helix , replaced with a 39 straight , changed to a Dalton B/O spring which still marked sheaves .
Next was to change to a Dalton White spring ( suggested by Clutchmaster ) twist at 9-2 ( tried less twist and secondary ran warmer ) and I added Mo-Flow vent kit (6 pcs ) also fabricated a splash guard for top of Brake rotor ( can see that it keeps a lot of snow/water from spaying on the inside sheaves . Primary is S-O-S spring SSI Mag weights loaded to 87 grams . Still running 8JP belt .
So far Clutch temps are good , pull is great , have been trying to abuse the belt , keeping my fingers crossed . This is a MTX ,mountain riding nor groomed trails but long open bowls above tree line .

 

[iceback]

One more item , I changed the bushing in Secondary moving sheave , didn’t think it was that bad (based on what I’d seen on my Apex the difference in slop with the new bushing is significant.

 

[fourload]

You know it’s slipping and not happy when it blows and cords belts. Like I said, life is good on 240 with the winder clutches. Life is tougher trying to run 270 and above.

On 270 one day the clutches look fantastic and you think you have a perfect clutching setup, thing is working mint, the next day it warms up 10-15 degrees and they look like this.

View attachment 151553

Yep, changing primary rollers AGAIN as can be seen above too! Another famous trait you'll get used to trying to run big tunes on the winder primary.


Below you can see the severe slippage in top end runs on the snow. Was using 8DN belt here, at least it only corded again and didn't blow like the 8JP's do.

View attachment 151554

Wow , that secondary looks bad. Almost looks like it was shuddering. Wonder if something like a 35/30 helix would have helped?

 

[KnappAttack]

Wow , that secondary looks bad. Almost looks like it was shuddering. Wonder if something like a 35/30 helix would have helped?

I was using the Cutler silver, which is a very heavy spring in this case and figured I had it mastered. Shouldn't need that big of a spring with these things, but its the only way I can keep a clamp on the belt in the winder secondary. Interesting thing is the old viper button clutches proved much more clamping force using much lighter and normal springs in them, and then they don't over clamp the belt when its not needed and in the throttle.

The day before these pictures were taken it was fast, clean and happy. Temp warmed about 10-15 degrees and then it wasn't so happy anymore. Hence the reason for going to Viper button secondary, RX-1 primary and XS825 belt, all of which have been said to fix eating primary rollers and belts. I'm just done trying to fight with that large dia. helix roller winder secondary. I'd like to use the larger tunes with success on the trail without belt & primary roller failures.

 

[PowderFalcon]

I was using the Cutler silver, which is a very heavy spring in this case and figured I had it mastered. Shouldn't need that big of a spring with these things, but its the only way I can keep a clamp on the belt in the winder secondary. Interesting thing is the old viper button clutches proved much more clamping force using much lighter and normal springs in them, and then they don't over clamp the belt when its not needed and in the throttle.

The day before these pictures were taken it was fast, clean and happy. Temp warmed about 10-15 degrees and then it wasn't so happy anymore. Hence the reason for going to Viper button secondary, RX-1 primary and XS825 belt, all of which have been said to fix eating primary rollers and belts. I'm just done trying to fight with that large dia. helix roller winder secondary. I'd like to use the larger tunes with success on the trail without belt & primary roller failures.

couldn’t agree more Knapp !!

keep us posted on your findings with those clutches. I am on the hunt for a viper secondary to try as well. What helix would you recommend with the 270 tune and viper clutch ?

 

[sideshowBob]

For KnappAttak

Do you think the secondary sheaves could be damaged in the area they are slipping from previous setups slipping the belt and now no setup will be able to allow the belt to get a good grip at the high hp tunes?
I wonder if machining the clutch faces to get a virgin surface would help.

 

[KnappAttack]

couldn’t agree more Knapp !!

keep us posted on your findings with those clutches. I am on the hunt for a viper secondary to try as well. What helix would you recommend with the 270 tune and viper clutch ?

We always used around that 51/43 and 53/45 range using Yamaha stock white, or for no spring coil bind the Dalton Red on the turbo Apex's with great success. I just threw in an Advant-Edge 49-41 which is close to a Dalton 51-43 with the Dalton Black/Orange. Hoping for snow to test here soon.

For KnappAttak

Do you think the secondary sheaves could be damaged in the area they are slipping from previous setups slipping the belt and now no setup will be able to allow the belt to get a good grip at the high hp tunes?
I wonder if machining the clutch faces to get a virgin surface would help.

Mine is not damaged or warped and I see no reason to machine mine.

 

[Fleecer]

couldn’t agree more Knapp !!

keep us posted on your findings with those clutches. I am on the hunt for a viper secondary to try as well. What helix would you recommend with the 270 tune and viper clutch ?

In my limited experience thus far with the viper secondary, you need 8 more degrees of helix to mimic factory roller.

IMO....straight 43 in the button secondary will pull same rpm as the straight 35 in the factory roller. Naturally, different springs rates can affect this, but this should put you in ballpark

 

[Sledbrapping88]

Well I found 1 of my problems one of the rollers in secondary has deep flat spot also looking a few thing over primary sheaves looked like they smashed together is this something I should be worried about or can I just clean it up and be fine.

 

[Sledbrapping88]

Here a pic

 

[Fleecer]

Well I found 1 of my problems one of the rollers in secondary has deep flat spot also looking a few thing over primary sheaves looked like they smashed together is this something I should be worried about or can I just clean it up and be fine.

When you blew belt, the two sheaves hit together causing that. If they hit hard enough and/or frequent enough it can crack the sheaves sometimes. Clean that area up with steelwool and if no visible cracks you are Ok.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Well I found 1 of my problems one of the rollers in secondary has deep flat spot also looking a few thing over primary sheaves looked like they smashed together is this something I should be worried about or can I just clean it up and be fine.

Better check yer offset, your stub shaft might have moved.