Sidewinder Belt Blowing

blew my first belt ... 2021 set at 57.5 allso justinator... im wondering if i shoukd put the 1 mm shim back that it came with stock? ,xs had 729 mi /29.5 hrs on it, max17 tune ridden hard most all those miles... respectable belt time u think? allso reading posts some say theres break and cut like a knife.... mine shredded into a billion pieces and threds if that neans anything? secondly is 0g/bk wound 6-2 ....thinkin to go 6/3 as knapp mentioned... no belt smear on mine.... i mean if i got to put a belt on every 700 mi i will but be nice to get more out of it and not clean the fkn mess it makes !! looking for some professional opinions,,, appreciate it

I see you have the TP 911 cover.
What spring and weights are you running in the clutches?
 
I see you have the TP 911 cover.
What spring and weights are you running in the clutches?
dalton bk orange in 2dary wraped 6-2, 35 deg helix, wanna say dalton bk green in primary.... would have to look to confirm primary spring...dalton weights
 
i did not take temp readings.... i will tske my temp gun with me and check readings once my new belt arrives... i allso never broke belts in allways just sent it not sure if thats critical...,what should the temps of cluches be at? so i know im in range? stub shaft moved in allso , once pressed back out i think i will aim for a little more offset with that spacer once i get it back together
Max temp in the 170 range, Min temp in 95 range. if you can tune your clutches to run in 120 range you will see longer belt life and your clutch parts will last longer as well… Yes its debatable but I do think breaking a belt in for 25 miles does help with longevity. I usually use another machine to break in by my belts …The other thing I do is keep my clutches clean and remove what little belt dust there is from time to time…
 
Max temp in the 170 range, Min temp in 95 range. if you can tune your clutches to run in 120 range you will see longer belt life and your clutch parts will last longer as well… Yes its debatable but I do think breaking a belt in for 25 miles does help with longevity. I usually use another machine to break in by my belts …The other thing I do is keep my clutches clean and remove what little belt dust there is from time to time…
thanks... ill take my temp gun out next ride , curious now!
 
thanks... ill take my temp gun out next ride , curious now!
Timken recommends XS belt break-in of minimum of 3 heat cycles with cooling time in between. That means run belt at moderate rpm with no full throttle until belt is at normal operating temp. Shut sled off and allow belt to cool to ambient temp. Helps to just remove side panel. Do this at least 3 times. Then, belt is broke in. It's not about miles. It's all about the 3 temp cycles.
 
Timken recommends XS belt break-in of minimum of 3 heat cycles with cooling time in between. That means run belt at moderate rpm with no full throttle until belt is at normal operating temp. Shut sled off and allow belt to cool to ambient temp. Helps to just remove side panel. Do this at least 3 times. Then, belt is broke in. It's not about miles. It's all about the 3 temp cycles.
gotcha.... i meant i was gonna heat temp the clutch sheeves not the belt
 
Timken recommends XS belt break-in of minimum of 3 heat cycles with cooling time in between. That means run belt at moderate rpm with no full throttle until belt is at normal operating temp. Shut sled off and allow belt to cool to ambient temp. Helps to just remove side panel. Do this at least 3 times. Then, belt is broke in. It's not about miles. It's all about the 3 temp cycles.
Thats makes perfect sense and agree with their logic. I probably should not have stated miles as a unit of measurement . I usually will break in several belts at the same time, changing them on and off in the same outing… Good points TF
 
I have thought about this since the new 2025 was so far out to lunch that with zero miles i had to press the bearing into the housing and the bearing onto the shoulder of the stub shaft. I didn't want to push the bearing off with the inner race to seat with retaining compound fearing it would damage the bearing. BUT, if the bearing gets pushed inward out of the housing from the energy of a blown belt what would it hurt to use the clutch as a slide hammer to pull it back into place? Only takes i minute to do this.
 
Not being cocky but, I have never blown a belt or had to adjust a stub shaft bearing and have no experience with one.. From my limited understanding It sounds like once they move its everyone’s opinion that they will move more easier and therefore its best to use bearing retainer on them… The whole set up sounds like a good design that needed a little more attention on stopping movements…
 
stub shat moved back all way out, i checked offset again and is fine, put the washer back inbehind 2dary and its to much imo, took back out to where i started from, checked n cleaned everything, left the v2 bo at 6/2 ... , so i basically changed nothing, just put a new xs on.... im thinkin the day it let go it was 32 plus.... warmer day mabe shouldnt of bin poundin it as hard in thise temps? broght the temp gun with me tn, belt did feel pretty warm after few long hard pulls, i never got higher than 200 ... more like 170 , on the belt itself, idk im just gonna run it as is 4 now n see how long it last ...,clutchrs were a bit cooler than belt... mabe some venting like iv seen gyes do in the plastics is the ticket?
 

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Offset will rip a belt in two.
Heat will blow a belt to pieces.
Your primary is black where the belt rides.
Your belt is slipping and will explode again if you don't change anything.
 
Offset will rip a belt in two.
Heat will blow a belt to pieces.
Your primary is black where the belt rides.
Your belt is slipping and will explode again if you don't change anything
what would u suggest? wrap it at 90 instead of 80?
 
Make sure the bushing rollers in the primary are not worn out.
The sidewinder primary likes to eat rollers and hangs up.
Many of us have gone away from the sidewinder primary and cured our belt issues.
 


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