03griz
Pro
Just picked up a M20 today......made it to step 4 before getting confused. The instructions say that you use the lower stock hole for the front bolt for a M10 and a higher one for the M20. I searched and someone said you don't have to drill out the front for the M20. But the instructions seem to point that it should be a higher mount point for the M20......does anybody know for sure or am I stuck waiting until monday to ask fast?
Thanks..
Thanks..
baggs66
Expert
Yes mine is in an apex but you have to drill the front holes and put in the support plates, then you have to relocate your rear brackets.
03griz
Pro
I read and double read and did drill out the upper hole. Thanks for the confirmation that I did it right. Only got the one side done last night as I had company come over. How do you like the ride with the m20?
baggs66
Expert
Overall very happy, have some kick back in some conditions but way better than stock , will really change at about 250 miles when it breaks in had to add about 6-8 more psi. Started at about 72 lbs and now run about 79- 80 lbs. I'm about 285 lbs. Stutter bumps just disappear, was running about 55 MPH thru 6-8" stutters and had a little feed back in handlebars then realized with stock suspension I could only run about 35 in same conditions, guess it wasn't so bad lol.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
The installation instructions can be a little vague.
I just finished an M20 install on my Apex. My front arm had to be moved back 1" because I have 9 tooth extrovert drivers, but your front arm should mount directly into the front holes you drilled out. Take your time and measure carefully.
It sounds like you're on track.
I just finished an M20 install on my Apex. My front arm had to be moved back 1" because I have 9 tooth extrovert drivers, but your front arm should mount directly into the front holes you drilled out. Take your time and measure carefully.
It sounds like you're on track.
Last edited:
03griz
Pro
Suspension is in. Track adjusters are almost all the way in to have the track tight. Maybe I was supposed to use the factory front holes. It is possible that the front arm was moved on the rails to the bottom hole so that I could use the factory mount location. Hopefully I can talk to fast today and clear that up.
Redbeard
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03griz said:Suspension is in. Track adjusters are almost all the way in to have the track tight. Maybe I was supposed to use the factory front holes. It is possible that the front arm was moved on the rails to the bottom hole so that I could use the factory mount location. Hopefully I can talk to fast today and clear that up.
Would you mind posting pictures of your work?
03griz
Pro
Will post pictures later. It's warmed up today so with only half a day if work it means there will be riding today!!!!!
Redbeard
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03griz said:Will post pictures later. It's warmed up today so with only half a day if work it means there will be riding today!!!!!
Were you able to get a hold of Fast yesterday?
FYI, my track adjusting bolts are all the way down against the jam nuts, but there is still over an inch of slot left in the rails to tighten the track more in the future. I'll just have to put a shorter jam nut in so the adjuster bolt can thread in more.
smoothride
Lifetime Member
I had to do the same thing as you are doing with the jam nuts. The time I was picking Gerald's brain the the novi show he told me I may have to put bigger wheels on the top. Your track will stop stretching tho.
Redbeard
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I don't have room for larger diameter wheels. The track lugs are already within 1/2" of the tunnel protectors. I think a standard nut on the adjuster bolt would be fine. It doesn't need to be 1" tall anyway.
smoothride
Lifetime Member
It was a discussion I had with Gerald the last time I talked to him. Good guy to pick his brain when you see him at the snow show. I took my tunnel protectors out of my sled this year when I was replacing my track to the ripsaw II. If you let all the air out of the skid and bottom out the skid you will see why.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Ripsaw II hooks up way better than Ripsaw. I'm impressed with it so far.smoothride said:It was a discussion I had with Gerald the last time I talked to him. Good guy to pick his brain when you see him at the snow show. I took my tunnel protectors out of my sled this year when I was replacing my track to the ripsaw II. If you let all the air out of the skid and bottom out the skid you will see why.
Let us know how your first ride went!03griz said:Will post pictures later. It's warmed up today so with only half a day if work it means there will be riding today!!!!!
03griz
Pro
Fast said to cut the nuts down or use regular nuts. The ride was good, but the track did ratchet a little it deep powder. I have a little more tightening that I can do before I need different nuts. I did take some pictures, they are still on my phone but I will post them soon. I do get a little track rubbing on full suspension compression. My tunnel protectors were loose a year or so ago and I used bolts to secure them at the back. I am pretty sure that is were it makes contact. Not bad but you know it's touching. I will put in a couple more pounds of air and it will probally not touch anymore.....
smoothride
Lifetime Member
Just put the regular nuts on the track will stop stretching soon. If you go to munising mi for a TY RIDE the mogos big so big they will do more then touch!
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