Bossman
Expert
I will check tonight we have an Apex and 05 RX1 sitting in the shop.
JONMIG
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I also agree, great question! Can anybody confirm this? Thanks JohnQCRider said:Bossman said:Could the support pads from the Attak be used on the Apex?
GREAT Question!! I asked yesterday on the RX Forum and have to see and answer...
ReX
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KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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Some of you guys have made some good points. There is no reason NOT to stud the center of the track other than the fact that there is less pressure on those studs because of the flex of the track from rail to rail. That is what is going on as it runs over the upper guide wheels as Allen pointed out. As you apply power it flexes even more as the track is pulled around them. The studs in this case are not sucked into the belting far enough and wore the shock body. The reason they are not is because of the angled backer. Woody's doveloped these because I told them I angle the studs on my drag sleds 7 degrees and they started building this backer style the following season. (I'm thinking I should be paid royalties). There fine for Acceleration, and lousy for braking. That is not what you are after for a trail sled guys. Luckly this situation can be remidied by simply installing the std. 2 hole backer in lieu of the angled backers. Mike Knapp#17
SledFreak
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That's great, thanks for the info.
BA APEX
Expert
ripsawsam said:Sounds like your studs are not below flush with the track
did use mis match manufacturers between studs and backers ??
the only way for the stud to rub is if the head is sticking out from the track
all mine are below flush. ??
ripsawman & srxracer,The backers are angled, which makes the back of the stud uneven on the inside of the track. pic is earlier in this thread.SRXracer said:I tend to agree that it looks like those studs are not tight enough. On a couple of them it looks like you can see the whole side edge of the base of the stud. How tight are you putting them on? They should be warping the bottom of the track some, at least that is how we have always done ours. We always put ours in with a airwrench, and tighten pretty much till they stop turning.
knappattack, I think the same as you. The angle of the backer is what is causing the "damage" to the shock"(due to uneven of the back of the stud head) and that the track should not be hitting shock in the first place. Even without studs, over time your shock will have at least marks in it OR track will wear in the very center from the shock rubbing it... is it enough to matter? who knows, but it should not be that close that it's rubbing.
Even if flat backers where used down the center, I think they would still rub the shock enough to damage it over time.
last night I took out all studs that were down the very center of the track. total of about 38 new holes. I was told that the left over holes shouldn't have any affect on the durability of the track. I will keep a close eye on it and report any issues they may occur.
Now I have to wait a few days for a new shock, not sure yet what Yamaha thinks of this occurance or what they will do for me. oh yea, it's snowing again! and my sled is down.
thanks for the replys 7 if anyone does take their skid out (OR shock), please take a pic of the shock where it is rubbing the track and post it here or pm me.
BA
Canadian Lad
Extreme
All the 121 mono-shock rears are with the idlers on the shaft the same as the Apex including the vector. There is only about 1/2 inch of space between the shock and the track minus the stud backings. This could very quickly become a major issue and I bet Yamaha washes there hands of it as studding is an aftermarket add on. Unless you are checking or looking for this you proberbly won't notice it.
SRXracer
Expert
I am certainly curious to go take a look at mine now since i have the angled backers too, i'll let everyone know what it looks like. I wonder if you can weld some material on to the top of your shock body instead of buying a new one?
SledFreak
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How many studs are you running? Take some pics if you can? The thing that gets me is how this never got noticed last year.SRXracer said:I am certainly curious to go take a look at mine now since i have the angled backers too, i'll let everyone know what it looks like. I wonder if you can weld some material on to the top of your shock body instead of buying a new one?
ReX
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Canadian Lad said:All the 121 mono-shock rears are with the idlers on the shaft the same as the Apex including the vector. There is only about 1/2 inch of space between the shock and the track minus the stud backings. This could very quickly become a major issue and I bet Yamaha washes there hands of it as studding is an aftermarket add on. Unless you are checking or looking for this you proberbly won't notice it.
1/2 an inch??
My 05 RX-1's track touches the shock with the sled on the marlift (no weight on the skid) and my buddies Apex has about 1/8 of an inch between the shock and track.
This is with both tracks adjusted to just under 1.5" of droop with 22 lbs applied.
SRXracer
Expert
I took a look at my GT, and there isn't any apparent wear issues that i could see. I am guessing there is an 1/8" to a 1/4" gap on the GT skid. I am running 144 studs, all in the center, standard woody's pattern. My track is definatley dimpled on the inside from the studs, and they certainly don't look like they are hanging out like the ones shown in this thread. I'll take the camera to the shop tonight or tom. and take a pic.
RTX
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I read about this problem before and was concerned when i studded my apex. unfortunately i went up the middle of the track also.
I am just thinking out loud so please bear with me.
would it be possible to replace the factory top wheels with a larger wheel for more clearance??
for example if the factory wheel is 6" install a 6.5" dia wheel. "I don't know the exact wheel size"
this would space the track 1/4" further away from the shock. does anyone think doing something like that would create more problems.
I am just thinking out loud so please bear with me.
would it be possible to replace the factory top wheels with a larger wheel for more clearance??
for example if the factory wheel is 6" install a 6.5" dia wheel. "I don't know the exact wheel size"
this would space the track 1/4" further away from the shock. does anyone think doing something like that would create more problems.
BA APEX
Expert
** need pics ** asap
RTX owners (or 121" skid owners with yamaha shock), I need pics of your track & shock where they are close to each other. preferably with no studs and if you have rub marks on your track that would be great. please send pics to dave11@budweiser.com (my email). I need these to give to my dealer, he is supposed to fax a few pics to YAMAHA. he needs pics of this area on used apex 121's.
need them by 10am wed. thanks,
BA
RTX owners (or 121" skid owners with yamaha shock), I need pics of your track & shock where they are close to each other. preferably with no studs and if you have rub marks on your track that would be great. please send pics to dave11@budweiser.com (my email). I need these to give to my dealer, he is supposed to fax a few pics to YAMAHA. he needs pics of this area on used apex 121's.
need them by 10am wed. thanks,
BA
Throttle Jockey
Lifetime Member
No problems, with my studs ( 168 inside and out Woody's pattern) They are all tight and good to go, I checked the shock and studs for any marks and there are none there is about a 1/4 " gap between track and top of shock..
Bossman
Expert
I checked my RX1 from last year and there are no signs of damage on anything. The sled has 800 miles on it.
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