Nyper build thread

[Nikolai]

I’m going to be doing the jig in a few stages which will take extra work now, but I think save me some hassle in the future. After welding on another chassis in a jig that had all the a-arm mounts, it makes it difficult to get into some of tight spots to weld because the jig gets cluttered.

For my tubie, I’ll be building a jig and building the upper section(upper a-arm and shock mounts) separately. Here’s a crude drawing showing the shock and a-arm tabs and three 1” tubes that will make up the upper section.

My goal here is to have the upper section completed in a jig so that when it comes to building the main frame jig, I will only need to jig the shock mounts. Then I can bolt my upper section into the frame jig shock mounts.

 

[Nikolai]

I bought a buddies JD2 Model 32 bender, converted it to air over hydraulic with the Swag Off-road kit and welded up a stand for it. I mainly did that for bending 1.75” DOM for UTV cage work but it will be nice for the sled.

I ordered a 1” die this morning for the tube chassis. All of the bent tubes will be 1” x .058.

Trying to get the jackshaft wrapped up so I can get the drivetrain mocked up and a final chassis width figured out.

 

[Nikolai]

The bore on the 3 jaw chuck on my lathe is too small to fit the clutch end of the jack shaft. I had to make an adapter to press inside the jack shaft so I could chuck it backwards to cut my snap ring groove.

I got the end turned down to 25mm for my washer and snap-ring.

I need to machine some more of the splines off so my washer will sit flush against the gear. Does anyone with a machinist background have any helpful tips? I’m having difficulty trying to face into the splines. I’m a total noob with the lathe. This is how much further I need to go on the splines. Im currently using carbide inserts to cut with.

 

[LEE337]

You can try to plunging straight in on the spline. Either way interrupted cuts on a smaller lathe is a pain. If that is all i have left i would try just taking 0.005-0.010 a pass till you are past the spline and then do a final axial feed pass.

Great work looks like fun.

 

[Nikolai]

Finally got the jackshaft done. A second one would go a lot faster. Almost got it under 4 lbs.

Only time will tell if it holds up but at the rate I ride that won’t be an issue.

On the tube chassis I’m going to mount the chaincase to .125” 4130 plates welded inside of 1” tubing. So my next step is to cut some .125” alu plates I have and mock up the chaincase to see what I’ll end up with for a chassis width. I’m hoping to get 15.625” between the plates so the ID of my tunnel skin would end up at 15.5”.

 

[Nikolai]

Got the chaincase side done. Did my best to make the holes as small and accurate as possible so I can use these plates as templates for the final build. I’ll do the other side next.

 

[Nikolai]

Other side done. It’s setup with 15.625” between the plates. With the secondary open there is plenty of room for my 1” tubing and also the brake.

Should be sufficient room on the end of the driveshaft to make a brake hub. The permanent marker is the outline of the brake disc.

This mark is how much of the hex has to be machined off for the bearing.

 

[Nikolai]

One of my primary goals with this sled was to build it as narrow as possible without having to spend extra money machining the clutches since I’m on a budget. There is no way to move the secondary in further towards the tunnel(really further on the jackshaft) without removing internal splines from the clutch. After thinking about it for the last few days I had an idea to space the chaincase out. I made 1” spacers and spaced the chaincase out 1” from the side plate.

I had to narrow the ID of the plates from 15.625” to 15.5”(tunnel skin will stay 15.5” ID) but it allowed the secondary to basically move 1” towards the tunnel thus also moving the motor over 1”. The chassis tubing may end up easier since there’s now room to run it between the chaincase and side plate. Tubing on the clutch side will be slightly more complicated because I cannot run tubing between the clutch sheave and sideplate.

The best part though, total width from the end of the primary bolt to the outside of the chaincase cover is only 28.5”! It’s 13” from center of tunnel to the right, and 15.5” from center of tunnel to the left. With body work it will still be under 29” total width. Not bad for a fat 4-stroke. The sled is going to be a riot to ride if it ever gets finished.

I’m going to stare at it for a few more days to make sure I’m not overlooking anything and then I’ll start building a jig.

 

[kinger]

Love that your back posting this Nikolai!

 

[Nikolai]

Thanks, it feels good to be working on it again.

 

[zx4ever]

Glad you are at it again. To bad about the Nytro not getting done but I will be watching this thread closely as I one day will be building my own sled. After my project list gets a little shorter. Ha ha

 

[Nikolai]

I was bummed about the Nytro and tried to work on it but ultimately I just wanted to start fresh.

I’ve been trying to figure out a way to narrow it up some more and it’s not going to happen. The most I could get is another 1/4” but that would require removing splines from the secondary and it’s not worth it to me to pay a machine shop $120 for an extra 1/4”.

Having said that, the drivetrain is locked in. ID between the 1/8” plates was narrowed to 15.375”, the ID between the tubing will be 15.625”, and ID on the .063 tunnel will be 15.5”.

Starting on the frame jig Sunday and I’ll post pics as I go.

 

[Nikolai]

Started cutting steel for the jig. I’m using some 2-1/2” x 1/4” square tubing I had. It’s heavy but I want the jig to be rock solid.

My original plan was to jig my own suspension and chaincase placement, but due to being about 4 seasons behind schedule I’m just going to jig the Proclimb chassis I have.

I’ll use the Proclimb front and rear suspension mounts, driveshaft location, front suspension, and running board angle. This takes almost all the guess work out and I’ll be able to bolt in a factory rear suspension and know that it will work well.

Started mocking it up last night.

 

[snowfever27]

The rear part of that tunnel looks like it took a hit. Do you know what caused that?

 

[Nikolai]

I don’t know the history, it was from a totaled sled. It’s a 2012 I think and Cat changed the suspension mounting points in later years(for the better). I’m picking up a tunnel from a 2016 Viper MTX today that is straighter and has the updated suspension mounting points.