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Nyper build thread


No. Took about 4 weeks to do a bunch of cage work on my Dad’s Kawasaki Teryx and then rebuilt his shocks so he could finish getting his rig ready for summer. Now I’m wrapping up some needed maintenance on the 660 Rhino (plow rig) and then I need to do my yearly full tear down on the RZR to prep it for another summer. I am going to try and get some work in on the sled too, I really want to get the oil tank finished.
 
Still alive. Kids got older, priorities changed, got them a 110 ATV and spent last winter building an off-road trailer to haul it behind my RZR so we could take it to our camping spots.

Nyper frame has been sitting in the jig slowly collecting surface rust. Going to have it sandblasted and then rattle can primer it to protect it and hope to get started on it again. Had to read thru this entire thread again just to remember what I had done.
 
Still alive. Kids got older, priorities changed, got them a 110 ATV and spent last winter building an off-road trailer to haul it behind my RZR so we could take it to our camping spots.

Nyper frame has been sitting in the jig slowly collecting surface rust. Going to have it sandblasted and then rattle can primer it to protect it and hope to get started on it again. Had to read thru this entire thread again just to remember what I had done.
I’m So glad you gave us an updateYou have most of the hard stuff done!! , I’ve been wondering if you were still working on it,its definitely hard to find any extra time with children,work& family. I’ve got one of my sleds in pieces doing some upgrades & maintenance work,new track, seat etc& i find it’s difficult to find time to get in the shop& work on it especially with other hobbies,work, firewood etc,keep us posted its an awesome build & will be a really cool sled to ride when you get it finished
 
My focus will be on painting the frame, getting it sitting on suspension and then I need to finish fabricating the oil tank and rear cooler so I can get it running. There’s a lot of work left…turbo needs rebuilt, make a charge tube, fuel tank, body panels, ect but after the oil tank all the remaining projects will be fairly simple.

This is the trailer I spent last winter building to haul the kids ATV.
IMG_0147.jpeg

IMG_0148.jpeg
 
My focus will be on painting the frame, getting it sitting on suspension and then I need to finish fabricating the oil tank and rear cooler so I can get it running. There’s a lot of work left…turbo needs rebuilt, make a charge tube, fuel tank, body panels, ect but after the oil tank all the remaining projects will be fairly simple.

This is the trailer I spent last winter building to haul the kids ATV.
View attachment 177560
View attachment 177561
Thats cool, great job on the trailer,it looks factory built only much better quality,it fits the sidexside really well ,I need to build a trailer for my atv for hauling wood so every picture I see gives me more & different ideas,the mountains in the background aren’t so bad either!! Building memories with the kiddos love it
 
Going back a few years ago I had weighed the complete front suspension. I ended up buying titanium lower a-arm bolts and steel K nuts after that so I weighed everything again tonight. Trying to get some motivation building for myself.

5.40 lbs - lower a-arms w/ ball joints & collars
1.88 lbs - upper a-arms w/ bushings & rod ends
6.78 lbs - spindles w/ axles & spacers
4.42 lbs - shocks w/ bushings
1.02 lbs - bolts, nuts, washers (6mm bolts are steel)
Total front suspension weight for everything pictured 19.50 lbs.
IMG_0155.jpeg


When I weighed my Nytro like 10 years ago at 449 lbs it had the skinz front end with Ohlins shocks & Ti springs and from my notes I estimated that to be 27.21 lbs, so I’m 7.71 lbs lighter just in the front suspension alone.
 
Anyone know if the speed sensor has to be right by the gear? Will it read properly if it’s 0.75” away?

I want to put it here
IMG_0164.jpeg
 
It works by hall effect, so it has to be close. It will not work that far away. It all depends on the sensor, but generally a hall effect maximum gap is 0.100"
 
a hall effect sensor is subject to the inverse square law so at double the distance it only has 1/4 the sensitivity. It has to be close to be effective.
 


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