Looks good, will that fit under the bodywork?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I’m making body panels for it so whatever I do will fit. Trying to be as narrow as possible.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Tank construction.
For the outer 2 halves 0.080 seems overkill, thinking of going with .063. Thoughts?
The baffling I’m going to cut out of .032 sheet and rivet it in place with a couple -3 solid rivets. Should weigh next to nothing and baffling doesn’t need to be structural at all. Also much simpler to fabricate since it can be cut with tin snips.
For the outer 2 halves 0.080 seems overkill, thinking of going with .063. Thoughts?
The baffling I’m going to cut out of .032 sheet and rivet it in place with a couple -3 solid rivets. Should weigh next to nothing and baffling doesn’t need to be structural at all. Also much simpler to fabricate since it can be cut with tin snips.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Eliminated the front triangle to reduce complexity since it was adding minimal capacity.
Compared to stock tank
That’s where I’m currently at. The factory oil tank complete with dipstick, drain plug and screen is 2.24 lbs.
Did some math and If I used .063 the tank itself would be about 2.0 lbs plus the baffling and fittings. Going to .080 adds about 0.5 lbs.
Compared to stock tank
That’s where I’m currently at. The factory oil tank complete with dipstick, drain plug and screen is 2.24 lbs.
Did some math and If I used .063 the tank itself would be about 2.0 lbs plus the baffling and fittings. Going to .080 adds about 0.5 lbs.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Wrapped cardboard tank in packaging tape, cut out opening on top and lined with a garbage bag. Filled oem tank completely full with water then poured into cardboard tank to compare capacity. Cardboard tank had about 5/8” space at the top so it’s slightly bigger, my estimate on sizing was pretty close.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Filled the tank with water to get baseline capacities before cutting it in half. Dipstick was not threaded in per owners manual. I’ll check the new tank when it’s done.
Tank 100% full - 128 oz or 4 qts
Dipstick full mark - 88 oz or 2.75 qts
Dipstick low mark - 80 oz or 2.50 qts
Tank 100% full - 128 oz or 4 qts
Dipstick full mark - 88 oz or 2.75 qts
Dipstick low mark - 80 oz or 2.50 qts
kinger
VIP Member
That seems simple to build, I would go for it.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Playing around some more. I wrapped the front around towards the front coolant line and got closer to the rear coolant line. By doing that I was able to narrow the tank from 3” depth to 2.625” and maintain volume. Can still bend the entire thing in 2 pieces and only have 2 vertical weld seams. Baffles get more complicated but the narrower width is tempting. Anyway, just posting ideas as I mull over what I want to do.
This cardboard is about 26.25 sq inches.
This cardboard is about 26.25 sq inches.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Picked up a sheet of .063 5052 for the oil tank. Figured if aircraft fuel tanks are .032, .040 & .050 then .063 should suffice for an oil tank.
I was looking through some old posts and completely forgot that it was suggested to put a flat plate between the header and frame tubes to keep ice from building up on the frame. I need to get this figured out before I do the turbo mount.
1. Use .040 7075 aluminum. Strong, light, and I already have a good sized sheet of it. Not as good at reflecting heat as Ti.
2. Stainless Steel sheet. Heaviest and least attractive option.
3. Grade 2 Ti sheet .020 or .025 thick. Would cost about $80-100 for a 12”x18”. Better at reflecting heat than aluminum but costly too. Not sure how much better .025 Ti would do vs .040 alu
Any thoughts? It only needs to be slightly larger than the header. All the rest of the enclosure can be CF or aircraft fabric. If I used Alu I maybe just make it the entire size of the top since it’s light.
I was looking through some old posts and completely forgot that it was suggested to put a flat plate between the header and frame tubes to keep ice from building up on the frame. I need to get this figured out before I do the turbo mount.
1. Use .040 7075 aluminum. Strong, light, and I already have a good sized sheet of it. Not as good at reflecting heat as Ti.
2. Stainless Steel sheet. Heaviest and least attractive option.
3. Grade 2 Ti sheet .020 or .025 thick. Would cost about $80-100 for a 12”x18”. Better at reflecting heat than aluminum but costly too. Not sure how much better .025 Ti would do vs .040 alu
Any thoughts? It only needs to be slightly larger than the header. All the rest of the enclosure can be CF or aircraft fabric. If I used Alu I maybe just make it the entire size of the top since it’s light.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Edited above post.
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kinger
VIP Member
I would do Aluminum or in my custom tunnel I am scheming lots of carbon as that doesn't transfer heat very well and I want the tunnel COLD no more ice for me either. I don't know how well Carbon would do next to a glowing header though. Aluminum is the best IMO
Treated carbon fiber can stand up to 3000c. Untreated carbon fiber can probably easily handle your header heat with a bit of a heat shield in place.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I’ll do aluminum just big enough to cover the header plus a little extra on each side and make the rest of the top CF then. For the front of the tunnel and the sides I’m either going to use thin UHMW sheet or CF or a mix of both.
Want to reduce snow/ice sticking/buildup as much as possible.
Want to reduce snow/ice sticking/buildup as much as possible.
I should have been a bit more specific. Carbon Fiber is available in differing levels of treatment for heat. I assume you are ordering sheet CF not roll and making your own epoxy mixture. Pre-impregnated CF blanks can be found which have heat treatment up to 3000c. It all comes down to binder and bake time. FWIW, buying sheets is far less time consuming and more predictable than buying rolls and doing it yourself. It may even end up cheaper. Fire up those carbide cutting/drilling implements, that s*it is hard as... From a heat transfer perspective, CF is an insulator with orders of magnitude less heat transfer than aluminum.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have looked at sheet and am undecided. I haven’t decided yet if I will skin the entire sides of the tunnel in 1-piece in which I would make the sides, or if I will just install pieces of sheet in between the frame tubes in which case premade sheet would work. The entire side doesn’t need to be skinned, just pieces large enough to keep a boot from slipping off the running board and into the track.
Steel tubes buildup ice though, so covering the tubes would have its own benefit. Have also thought about wrapping the tubes on the sides with ultra low friction tape from McMaster Carr.
UHMW sheet would be the best at preventing ice buildup as nothing sticks to it. So for now I’m thinking of trying to secure 1/8 UHMW inserts in between the tubes or skinning the entire side with thinner UHMW sheet.
Lots of options. Snow and ice buildup add a tremendous amount of weight so I want to be careful in how I skin it.
Steel tubes buildup ice though, so covering the tubes would have its own benefit. Have also thought about wrapping the tubes on the sides with ultra low friction tape from McMaster Carr.
UHMW sheet would be the best at preventing ice buildup as nothing sticks to it. So for now I’m thinking of trying to secure 1/8 UHMW inserts in between the tubes or skinning the entire side with thinner UHMW sheet.
Lots of options. Snow and ice buildup add a tremendous amount of weight so I want to be careful in how I skin it.
