Nyper build thread

[74Nitro]

Some more boring hardware stuff while I wait for parts.

Ti bolt for upper gear. I’m going to stick with the snap ring for now & see how it holds up but this will be option 2 of the snap ring gives me any problems.

30.81 g
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4.24 g 6061 aluminum drain plug. It came with an aluminum crush washer but I threw it away and used Yamabond 4 on the threads to seal it and act as loctite. Torqued to 10 ft lbs.
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Have a Ti lower gear bolt and Ti tensioner bolt on the way from Mettec and then the drivetrain will finally be done. Wasn’t planning on doing all the Ti hardware but as I build the sled I find myself buying more and more. Likely be the last sled I build since time is scarce with kids so I’m doing this one exactly how I want.

Probably just should have done a belt drive to start with but hindsight is 20/20. One nice thing about the chaincase is not having to worry about snow ingestion, body work on that side can be simple.

Lots of pretty parts and workmanship!
I've never heard of a bottom bolt breaking on a non-reverse model and I've been wrenching on Yamahas most of my life.

 

[Nikolai]

Don’t have the rest of the Ti bolts yet but the anti-seize I ordered showed up today and I was itching to get the cover on and see what it would look like.

Seal plug installed.

Did a bunch of reading on various products for titanium and this had good reviews. It’s an anti-seize for steel, aluminum and titanium. Under $10 on Amazon

 

[Nikolai]

Coolant overflow bottle, better to do be high or low? Does it matter?

I want to put it here, it’s the most protected spot I have up front while keeping good access to the fill cap.

 

[Stubbs]

Coolant overflow bottle, better to do be high or low? Does it matter?

I want to put it here, it’s the most protected spot I have up front while keeping good access to the fill cap.
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It was always fairly high on the Deltabox sleds, but very low on the FX Nytro. I’m sure it will be just fine right where you’ve got it.

 

[Nikolai]

Coolant overflow hardware. 7075 aluminum bolt cut to length, 7075 nut, Alu reducer for bottle and .040 steel tab. 8.54 g for all of it.

Tabs welded in place. The .040 lower tab on the 3/4 tube was 3.94 g

Reducer in bottle for 8mm bolt. Factory bolt on the Nytro was a special 6mm steel bolt but I weighed both and the 8mm aluminum bolt was lighter.

For the front of the bottle I welded that tab in place to hold a zip tie and the vent tube. The zip tie didn’t stop up and down movement like I though it would so there’s a piece of 3M double sided tape between the bottle and frame. Total weight for the bolt, nut, reducer, tab 1, tab 2, zip tie and tape was 17.66 g or 0.039 lbs

Mocked together pretty close to how it will be. Hose clamps will be replaced with Gates heat shrink clamps. I hope the water pump doesn’t have any issues pushing coolant thru the frame.

 

[zx4ever]

Just a thought but do you actually need the overflow bottle. I tossed mine years ago once the coolant level is good you can forget about it. Since weight is a goal of this build i would delete it.

 

[Nikolai]

I don’t know to be honest. I didn’t run one for a couple years either but I had a larger fill bottle. I also ran without the t-stat in the housing but I put it back in for this build.

 

[74Nitro]

Just a thought but do you actually need the overflow bottle. I tossed mine years ago once the coolant level is good you can forget about it. Since weight is a goal of this build i would delete it.

For a while Yamaha had two overflow bottles, which I thought was unnecessary, and eventually I believe Yamaha did also as they are back to one. Maybe it was an environmental regulation, I'm not sure.
I would leave one there as coolant pushes into it when the engine is at normal operating temps, and then takes it back in when cooling.
The only way IMO you could run without it would be to leave the coolant level down in the rad to allow for expansion, but I'm not sure I would do that especially being a boosted engine.

 

[zx4ever]

On the yamalaris I put a apex coolant bottle on it. It’s small and does the trick. I was looking for just a filler neck and found the apex bottle for cheep so that’s what went on it.

 

[kennyspec]

Ditch the plastic overflow bottle!! Im not running one on the tube chassis i built. I have had it get hot and overheat, once it cooled off i took the cap off and hardly any coolant was lost. The coolant doesnt expand that much. fill it and forget it.

 

[Nikolai]

Good to know. I think for now I’ll leave it in place for the first couple rides and then I can try disconnecting the small hose from the fill neck, plug the overflow bottle and ride that way for a few more rides. Then if there was an issue I could reconnect the overflow bottle in the field to get home. Easy to test it out in the field.

Lower gear bolt showed up from Mettec. 11.37g vs 25.86g

Ti adjuster bolt from Mettec that I trimmed down to match the steel one. 13.15g vs 18.41g (steel one was drilled out most of the way)

Now that the drivetrain is 100% finished I wanted to weigh it. Here’s the breakdown for everything pictured

5.19 lbs - driveshaft w/ collar
4.13 lbs - jackshaft w/ collar
2.50 lbs - drivers
4.58 lbs - chaincase w/ bearings, cover, gasket & bolts
0.49 lbs - tensioner & bolt
3.86 lbs - both gears, chain, spacers, lower bolt & upper snap ring
0.74 lbs - jackshaft bearing flanges w/ bearing & bolts
0.70 lbs - driveshaft bearing flange w/ bearing & bolts
0.07 lbs - speedo gear & bolt
2.46 lbs - brake rotor, caliper & bolts

Total weight 24.72 lbs

Be interesting to see the actual weight difference on a belt drive. All of the belt drive tensioners look heavy but the gears and belt have to be quite a bit lighter. Don’t need a cover either but then the body work has to cover it to keep snow out. Wouldn’t lose much if anything with the chaincase itself because you’d still need a flat plate and bearing flanges. Regardless I don’t want to make any changes until I get some seat time on it and know if the driveshaft brake is going to work or be a complete fail.

 

[kinger]

Look into Evan’s waterless coolant, it doesn’t expand (no tank needed) and I think it may physically weigh less per gallon.

 

[Nikolai]

Couldn’t live with the blue hoses. Bought a piece of 1” x .049 5052 tubing and bent some coolant tubes. It’s not finalized yet but getting close.

Comparison

 

[Nikolai]

Look into Evan’s waterless coolant, it doesn’t expand (no tank needed) and I think it may physically weigh less per gallon.

I’ll check it out. Thanks

 

[earthling]

Look into Evan’s waterless coolant, it doesn’t expand (no tank needed) and I think it may physically weigh less per gallon.

They weigh about the same

Specific Gravity of Ethylene (anti-freeze) Glycol 1.11
Specific Gravity of Propylene Glycol (Evans) 1.04
Specific Gravity of Water .997

But since you mix Water/Ethylene you end up with the average of the two or 1.05. But when I have seen the two (anti-freeze) and Evans weighed side by side in comparing volume, the evans weighs more. Not sure why, it must be something evans are adding to the propylene glycol that has an even higher specific density.

My big problem with Evans is that your engine will heat faster, will run hotter (10-20 degrees), and this will in turn lower engine efficiency. This is not anecdotal evidence, this is in Evans own claims. They state it is because they are better at transferring heat.. the short answer is no. If they were better at transferring heat the engine as a system would run cooler, but it does not (again their own claims). A cooling system is a closed system, the only thing that matters is engine heat because the entire job of the coolant is to get heat out of the engine. If it were doing a better job, the engine would run cooler. It does not expand as you say and maybe that is a goal but I would gladly carry a smaller overflow bottle in trade for better cooling performance.