Nytro Bump-stear Question - inner mount position

[Mills]

There's a TON of information on this site about trying to correct bump stear on Nytro's using the outer tie rod end mounting position to get the tie rods in the same plane as the arms. Has anyone looked at moving the inner tie rod end mounting position to accomplish this? I can't find any info on changing the inner mounting posistion which, after looking at my sled, I think would probably be easier than doing it at the outer end.
I have to take my stearing sysetm apart to fix all the worn-out stock bushings so I might try this myself.
If I do try it, what is the best method to track bump stear with the sled sitting stationary? I know the method for mounting a laser light to the spindle through a full-bump to full-droop montion has its issues and does not show true bump-stear reduction.
Any suggestions for better/aftermarket stearing post bushings?

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Oft is the place for some good oilite bushings and relocate if that interests u. Rc car world we play with bump steer as a tuning aid and raising the inside of link will also aid in correcting bump steer aswell as moving the location it's mounted further forward. Idk if its possible on nytro steering post tho. Heard swapping 08 spindles from left to right worked pretty good also

 

[Mills]

Bummp TTT - there have to be more of you that have an opinion on this than just one TY memeber! What do you think?!?!?!

 

[natedawgedog]

Bummp TTT - there have to be more of you that have an opinion on this than just one TY memeber! What do you think?!?!?!

There was a wealth of info posted in the bump steer tread. With the info you need to measure bump steer what will happen when you change different variables in the front end. It all resulted in a couple different sets of spindles being made, and a couple companies making production sets of spindles also. Read that tread (if you haven't already) and it will give you some info to help yourself measure bump steer, and help to not make the same mistakes that were made before you. Most people just want to ride and not worry about things like bump steering, which is why your probably not going to get to many responses from the group as a whole.

There are a few companies make oilite bushings for the front ends and there is a member that makes ski bolt bushing, and oft racing makes steering post bushings, which will tighten up the front end of the sled dramatically

 

[grizztracks]

There's some space in the frame to relocate the pivot point but I don't believe it's worth the effort. I personal don't have a problem with bump steer and most others have no idea what it is or how it affects handling. I think "some" have made it into a bigger issue on the Nytro than what it really is in an effort to explain or improve a poor handling sled. A good set of skis (Curves) toed out 1/2", a steering post relocate (OFT) and some tweaking on the suspension is all you need to get these sleds through the bumps.

 

[raginyamaha]

http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=10 ... bump+steer
heres one to look at.. AKrider had one too but he deleted it for some reason in where he swaped spindles from left to right and mounted the tie rod in a different place. dont know where it went

 

[Mills]

Awhile back I read all the posts you guys suggest and at that time I would have said that the bump stear thing did get blown out of proporation. However, I experianced the handlebar tank slap issues not long after reading the posts and also noticed how twitchy my Nytro is in corners after jumping back on my SX and riding a buddies Dragon IQ. I believe both of these issues are related to bump stear. My Nytro handles pretty well as is but, if I can improve the twitchiness I would like to and I would like to never experiance the handle bar tank slap again! Have any of you experianced the tank slap issue - its not fun as the bars get ripped out of your hands as you back off the throttle and they slap back and forth so violently that you can't grab back onto them. If your heading into a tight corner with trees all around you when this happens, your screwed!

 

[grizztracks]

I've never experienced what you are describing and I'm very aggressive on the rough trails. If you experience what believe is bump steer when you decelerate it sounds like you have a transfer problem. My sled also transferred weight to the front and had twitchy tendencies until I did a few mods and adjustments. At one point I was seriously thinking about selling my Nytro due to it's poor handling but in time I worked those issues out and the improved handling had nothing to do with bump steer. Which Nytro are you running and what mods have you done?

 

[Mills]

I have the standard FX model. I bought the sled used so the tank slap issue happened with the previous owners suspension set up in it. He liked to boondock and ride standing up alot. I tweeked on the suspension setup and did get it to handle a lot better for me running aggressively on tight, twisty trails. No mods yet but, I am going to be sending you my front subframe to have it squared back up and gusseted sometime soon. I am going to do the ball joint mod as well. When I get both of those competed I am going to take it up to Lindstrom MN, to Bruce at B-line Control and have him rebuild and revalve the shocks to me and my riding style and then have him help me tweek on it until I get it like I want it. He is a former Yamaha Sno-cross and X-country suspension tech that now has his own business.
Do you suggest any other mods besides the ball joint mod and custom shock valving? I think I am going to try to find some OFT stearing shaft bushings while at Haydays in a few weeks to. Would you recommend the relocate kit for tight trails also?

 

[grizztracks]

The steering post relocate is a must. It really helps with controlling theses sleds without fatiguing you. I believe the Curves with toe set to 1/2" out is the best option for tight trail. You need to adjust transfer so you don't bury the noise into bumps. Come time for track replacement extend it out to 128" with a skid relocate. This will reduce the tracks approach angle so it gets over the rough stuff better. If you're going to do shock work consider installing a Hygear dual rate spring on the center shock.