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**Official Clutch Rattle Removal Thread w/ Pics**

Discussion in 'FX Nytro General Talk' started by Beenba, Dec 10, 2012.


  1. RX1MPete

    RX1MPete TY 4 Stroke Master

    Messages:
    1,068
    Location:
    Sudbury, Ontario
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2015 Viper XTX Turbo
    2008 Nytro MTX 153
    2004 RX1 Mountain
    Different thread stated people did this two years ago on their Nytros and still holding strong.
     
  2. raginyamaha

    raginyamaha TY 4 Stroke Master

    Messages:
    1,458
    Location:
    Waterford, wi
    Country:
    USA
    Snowmobile:
    2013 xtx
    this will be a godsend. i cannot stand that rattle on my sled..... def will be watching this...
     
  3. kimoajaj

    kimoajaj Expert

    Messages:
    305
    Location:
    Norway
    Awesome thread Beenba!
    Absolutely outstanding :)

    One thing you could add is that you should avoid turning the engine clockwise from the clutch side, always turn it counterclockwise (the way it runs).
    Rumours has it that it is possible to make the camchain skip and or also break a chain guide. I really doubt it but if you dont have to turn it clockwise then don't:).

    I will be doing this in the weekend I think.

    Will also post back to tell you my results.

    I thought about this last night and the only thing that worries me alittle is that lets say that the retaining compound dissolves after a few years, I wouldnt like have that stuff mixed in my oil. But I guess I`m just over-skeptical :)
     
  4. kojack

    kojack Pro

    Messages:
    173
    Location:
    Fredericton, NB
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2014 Yamaha Viper XTX MCX
    LOCATION:
    Hanwell
    Txs for the pics and description. Decided to pull the plug and did the same thing as you. Didnt take that long except I didn't have any chunk of aluminium like you had so i had to use a socket and it took quite a while for it to come out. First few centimetres were easy but the rest, well... lets not talk about it anymore. I went to my local parts store to get the Motorselant, good idea by the way and was able to grab the last Red Loctite but in Gel. That stuff is wonderfull, no drips anywhere, just filled the spline on the stub shaft, looks like wax in the tread, so nothing will be dripping anywhere in the engine. Did the counterweight also and will report in 2 days to let you know if she stopped complaining a bit. :)
     
    rlbock likes this.
  5. Beenba

    Beenba TY 4 Stroke Junkie

    Messages:
    577
    Location:
    Ontario
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2009 Nytro XTX
    ^Sounds good! Glad to hear it worked for ya. I figured it would be a little harder with just a socket, but I knew it would work and not everyone has a hunk of aluminum laying around lol. Just make sure whatever you use is a fairly tight fit around the bolt, because you do not want to mushroom the step - up near the head of the bolt.

    I'm very eager to start it up tonight, but I am going to give it the two days lol. Not like we have any snow yet..damn Ontario weather.

    For people worrying about the loctite or sealant loosening up and falling into the engine, I wouldn't be.
    This is why in my how-to I instructed only to apply the loctite to the stub shaft.
    When installing it back onto the sled, it will push any excess loctite into the stub shaft and trap it in there forever.
    And since I determined you can have the snowmobile level, the chance of it running into the engine is even less.
    Like someone else has mentioned, the actual amount of loctite between the splines is likely only 0.002; thinner than your hair.
    If any loctite were to break off it would likely just fall down into the oil and then your filter will pick it up before it is recirculated.
    As far as it dissolving, no worries. The spec sheet for Loctite 640 states it retains 100% full stength even after 1000hours at 125degC motor oil and gas too. Its got ya covered! ;)!
     
  6. kimoajaj

    kimoajaj Expert

    Messages:
    305
    Location:
    Norway
    Just for the fun of it I sent an e-mail directly to lactate were I tried to explain our problem and asked what loctite that would suit this purpose best.

    They said Loctite 660 with activator 7240 or 7471.
    Dunno if its any better then 640 but when I look at the technical specs it seems like 660 fills larger gaps and hardens faster.

    There are so many different types, is it really necessary?? hehe.

    Still looking forward to hearing the result!!
     
    rlbock likes this.
  7. YammyRX1

    YammyRX1 TY 4 Stroke Master

    Messages:
    1,303
    Location:
    Milton, on
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2003 Yamaha RX-1
    Are we thinking that the rattle on 4 cylinders is coming from the same spot or is that clutch related?
     
  8. Supa Dexta

    Supa Dexta Expert

    Messages:
    470
    Location:
    Canada AB/NS
    Depends on if it has the same setup with stub shaft^ I dont believe the old RX1s did, not sure on apexs of today


    I found some 620 in a buddies shop this morning, Im gonna try it. The only thing I see in the spec sheets is 'Requires heat cure to achieve temperature resistance' I also found this chart>

    http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data ... _Guide.pdf

    It has 603 listed for oil usage, but its for very small gaps - 0.005"
     
  9. kojack

    kojack Pro

    Messages:
    173
    Location:
    Fredericton, NB
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2014 Yamaha Viper XTX MCX
    LOCATION:
    Hanwell
    Hey YammyRX1, not sure if the 4 cyl. does the same rattling, easy to check, Remove your belt than grab your primary and rotate it clockwise and counterclockwise if you have a little play you'll hear the spline hitting on the shaft. Not sure if the 4 cyl. engine are built the same but just to be sure before you start tearing parts check your parts guide or manual and if its like the 3 cyl. The problem that some loctite have is like kimoajaj just stated, some need heat to cure. Some of us don't have the luxury of a heated garage. In heated setting it might be different. With the loctite in gel you just fill the stub shaft groove and dont have to worry about it falling in the engine. I just filled all the spline in the stub with the gel stuff. Its like wax and goes on perfectly. perfect product and all the leftover will be pushed to the end of the stub and stay there forever.
     
  10. YammyRX1

    YammyRX1 TY 4 Stroke Master

    Messages:
    1,303
    Location:
    Milton, on
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2003 Yamaha RX-1
    Best way to gage the play in mine is if I hold a sharpie marker on the outside of the primary and wiggle it back and forth it makes a mark just less than 1/4" long (maybe 3/16"). I did it with the belt on because it's loose enough that it doesn't really restrict movement. It only rattles at idle though, is that the same with 3 cylinders?
     
  11. kojack

    kojack Pro

    Messages:
    173
    Location:
    Fredericton, NB
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2014 Yamaha Viper XTX MCX
    LOCATION:
    Hanwell
    yes same problem with the 3's. Only at idle and goes away on throttle. It's more a nuisance than anything else. Not really impress when you buy a sled close to 14000$ and a 1984 Indy 400 makes less noise than you on idle. :)
     
  12. Beenba

    Beenba TY 4 Stroke Junkie

    Messages:
    577
    Location:
    Ontario
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2009 Nytro XTX
    The 3000psi I listed earlier is with the loctite curing at 22degC aka room temp. I think the sheet said if you heat cure it at 93degC for one hour you get full strength of 3200+psi. For you guys without heat I don't really know what to say, maybe you could leave a heater blowing against the shaft for 24 hours. Just plug it into your neighbors house ;)

    I'm confident any of the 600 series retaining compound loctites will work fine. Like we all know, it is really only under stress at idle from the clutch flopping back/forth on the splines. 3000psi should be more than enough.

    Anywho, im on my way to a concert tonight so i will fire up the sled when I'm back and post up results in the am. :) :)
     
  13. kimoajaj

    kimoajaj Expert

    Messages:
    305
    Location:
    Norway
    Lying in bed last night I started thinking; What is the reason for the crank having the stubshaft? Does it serve a purpose being constructed like that? Or ?

    I mentioned this to a very skilled guy at work and his first reaction was: "Dont do it, I am sure they made it like that for a reason. Their machines are accurate enough to make splines without slack. Try filling the splines with a low viscosity grease" . We discussed it for a while and he gradually seemed less critical to using loctite, he also said that 638 would work. But Like Beenba sais, any loctite in the 660 series will probably work.

    Dude I probably sound like a wuzz.. .

    One thing I wonder is... if you remove the rattle from the splines, could this make the collars in the rollers stop knocking back and forth? Since the clutch will be more stabile.. But I doubt it.

    Still waiting for the result beeba:)
     
  14. YammyRX1

    YammyRX1 TY 4 Stroke Master

    Messages:
    1,303
    Location:
    Milton, on
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2003 Yamaha RX-1
    I would think that having play in the splines would create a lot of inertia at those RPMs and it would be stressing the splines and shafts more than necessary- plus you don't see it on other motors so why here? I don't know much about street bikes but does the same condition exist in the bikes that use these motors but with a flywheel instead of a clutch?
     
  15. Beenba

    Beenba TY 4 Stroke Junkie

    Messages:
    577
    Location:
    Ontario
    Country:
    Canada
    Snowmobile:
    2009 Nytro XTX
    Sorry sorry my bad.
    Didn't get back from concert until 2am, and was up at 7am for work :exc: Ill be firing it up tonight for sure!
     

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