Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Good point, I should update that hehe.
Umm, my o-rings are on the nut side. I have no idea what size they were we have a kit at the shop with a bunch of different sizes. They were pretty thick, and I just kept squishing them until I saw about 1-2 threads sticking out of the locknut, so I knew the nuts weren't going to fly off.
When i'm at the shop next ill snap ya a pic.
Umm, my o-rings are on the nut side. I have no idea what size they were we have a kit at the shop with a bunch of different sizes. They were pretty thick, and I just kept squishing them until I saw about 1-2 threads sticking out of the locknut, so I knew the nuts weren't going to fly off.
When i'm at the shop next ill snap ya a pic.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Here is a pic of my o-ring setup. Any size o-ring that hugs the bolt nice and tight should work. Just make sure its a thick o-ring and not one of those skinny ones.
Lots of guys have done this and they say it helps a bit.
Lots of guys have done this and they say it helps a bit.
dutchie
Pro
this is good , i hate that rattle on my nytro , drives me crazy , worse is when your beside them 2 strokes and they look over at you as it sounds like your about to blow up ,
i'm going to get the o rings today and also try to find some red gel loctite , anyone else do this and did it get rid of the rattle
thanks
i'm going to get the o rings today and also try to find some red gel loctite , anyone else do this and did it get rid of the rattle
thanks
fxnytroxtx
Guest
I haven't started mine yet but im 100% sure mine won't rattle.
fxnytroxtx
Guest
I haven't started mine yet but im 100% sure mine won't rattle.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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Dutchdutchie said:
Don't use red on the roller bolts it's too high of strength, blue is removable without heat. I used a teflon washer under mine and it's a lot quieter.. It's just cause you never heard a f-404 clunkin that it bothers you LOL!
dutchie
Pro
canoehead said:Dutchdutchie said:
Don't use red on the roller bolts it's too high of strength, blue is removable without heat. I used a teflon washer under mine and it's a lot quieter.. It's just cause you never heard a f-404 clunkin that it bothers you LOL!
hey bud
was only going to use the red in the groves on the stub shaft , going to use rubber washers instead of the rubber o rings under the nut , got some today 6 x $1.30 , cheep enough , i don't have a puller to get that clutch off , any tricks i can do instead of going out and buying one for this job , been looking at it and was thinking i might be able to get a 2x4 in the backside for pushing power
and yep , i do miss the work and tear down on the GE 404 engines , was the good ol days for sure
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
^See if you can borrow one from your dealer if possible. You will never get the clutch off with just prying with a 2x4 in my opinion. And i don't think you can get at the bolts to remove the stub shaft and clutch all as one. Maybe someone you know has one? The pullers have been the same since the 1990's for yammy clutches.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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The pullers are cheap. Try borrowing one, but first try the washer trick you might not have to pull the clutch if your statisfied with the roller dampening. Got snow?
dutchie
Pro
got snow ?
they got lots at fernie , going again after xmas ,
you got much up in cold lake area
they got lots at fernie , going again after xmas ,
you got much up in cold lake area
MOUNTAIN VMAX4
Pro
An awesome trick
Heres an awesome trick if you can find a big bolt that will match up with the threads inside the clutch that the puller was designed to pull on then you can pack the clutch bolt hole full of grease and thread the bolt in you can do it by hand if your fast but an air impact is quicker and easier. I have done it on a Polaris clutch that I was trying on my Nytro and did not have a puller. The Polaris clutch rattled just as bad if not worse than the Yamaha. I like this thread when I put my Nytro back in the shop I will try this!!
Heres an awesome trick if you can find a big bolt that will match up with the threads inside the clutch that the puller was designed to pull on then you can pack the clutch bolt hole full of grease and thread the bolt in you can do it by hand if your fast but an air impact is quicker and easier. I have done it on a Polaris clutch that I was trying on my Nytro and did not have a puller. The Polaris clutch rattled just as bad if not worse than the Yamaha. I like this thread when I put my Nytro back in the shop I will try this!!
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Thanks for this post beenba:
I was doing some clutch work last night and I decided to give the stub shaft a try.
I followed your process until you used a home made slide hammer.
I removed the 4 10mm bots on the face and loosened the 2 12mm bolts underneath.
All I did was thread in the clutch retainer bolt and wiggled it up and down until the stub shaft came out about 3 / 4 of an inch. Mine did not have nearly the amount of rust that yours did though. (only 4900 miles on my 2009 xtx)
Then I wrapped an old rag around the claw end of a claw hammer and used that to pry the stub shaft the rest of the way out. If you try it this way be careful because my stub shaft released suddenly and flew out and I wasn’t ready for it. Luckily it landed on the ski instead of the concrete floor.
I used permatex red gel thread locker. I only used it on every second spline to see if it will hold. I’ll be waiting a while before I get to ride so I’ll give it probably about 4 -5 days to cure seeing as how my garage is not heated.
I had the clutch off anyway so I decided to try this and it took no time at all. Thanks for the post… it was very well done. I’m just going to cross my fingers now to see if it works.
I was doing some clutch work last night and I decided to give the stub shaft a try.
I followed your process until you used a home made slide hammer.
I removed the 4 10mm bots on the face and loosened the 2 12mm bolts underneath.
All I did was thread in the clutch retainer bolt and wiggled it up and down until the stub shaft came out about 3 / 4 of an inch. Mine did not have nearly the amount of rust that yours did though. (only 4900 miles on my 2009 xtx)
Then I wrapped an old rag around the claw end of a claw hammer and used that to pry the stub shaft the rest of the way out. If you try it this way be careful because my stub shaft released suddenly and flew out and I wasn’t ready for it. Luckily it landed on the ski instead of the concrete floor.
I used permatex red gel thread locker. I only used it on every second spline to see if it will hold. I’ll be waiting a while before I get to ride so I’ll give it probably about 4 -5 days to cure seeing as how my garage is not heated.
I had the clutch off anyway so I decided to try this and it took no time at all. Thanks for the post… it was very well done. I’m just going to cross my fingers now to see if it works.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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About 18 inches on average. The lake froze the 1st week of Dec. Earliest a lot of people can remember. We're averaging -20 and lower at nights. Might have to head to mountains after X-Mas unless we get a dump..dutchie said:
Just a little comment on the clutch removal, I have tried lots of different things and experienced the following:
-OEM Yamaha puller: OK,
- NOT OEM Yamaha puller: Can bend (the thinnest part of the puller that touches the crankshaft bends and clutch doesnt pop off, if you keep screwing the puller in it can bend so much that it touches the threads inside the crank and damage them
I use the first part of a NON OEM puller, I chopped it off about 3cm after were the threads ended. I then fill the hole/clutch with up oil up til the very beginning of the hole, the thicker the better oil, chainsaw oil is great, or gear oil. A few rounds with thread tape on the threads on the puller and then screw it in as fast as you can (when you are sure that it has entered the threads properly) and to this day this method has never let me down, it always works.
OK so you have to clean up alittle oil mess but thats just charming.
So if someone gave me an aftermarket puller I`d chop it right off and use the oil method.
I think grease is more difficult and also more of a mess to clean up. (it can take a couple of attempts to get the grease compressed and all the air out).
Just my two cents
-OEM Yamaha puller: OK,
- NOT OEM Yamaha puller: Can bend (the thinnest part of the puller that touches the crankshaft bends and clutch doesnt pop off, if you keep screwing the puller in it can bend so much that it touches the threads inside the crank and damage them
I use the first part of a NON OEM puller, I chopped it off about 3cm after were the threads ended. I then fill the hole/clutch with up oil up til the very beginning of the hole, the thicker the better oil, chainsaw oil is great, or gear oil. A few rounds with thread tape on the threads on the puller and then screw it in as fast as you can (when you are sure that it has entered the threads properly) and to this day this method has never let me down, it always works.
OK so you have to clean up alittle oil mess but thats just charming.
So if someone gave me an aftermarket puller I`d chop it right off and use the oil method.
I think grease is more difficult and also more of a mess to clean up. (it can take a couple of attempts to get the grease compressed and all the air out).
Just my two cents
Supa Dexta
Expert
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