Oil change,Front frame removal and starter removal Pics

[zackn291]

exactly. ill probably have mine that long

 

[cannondale27]

wow. you do an oil change the hard way. the dealer told my dad how to do it and it was way easier and was really easy when we did it. to drain the engine oil you just go from the bottom of the sled, you will see a plastic cover(remove it) then you see the filter and the engine oil drain plug, drain both of those, then take off the right side body panel thing and drain that oil. you be able to do an oil change like that in about 30min.

I did first two normally as you describe.But for the one in post I wanted to make sure starter bolts werent loosening.So I decided to try front end removal which is definitly best way to access starter.Honestly it is a wash time wise.I can easily remove whole front end in 1/2 hr now.

 

[zackn291]

i guess thats not too bad.

 

[QUADSCRIB]

Thanx Cannondale fer the info. I just removed and completely dissassembled mine after watching this other thread, Check this out:

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=74078

Your info here saved me alot of time!

 

[phazedmt]

cannondale27,
Have you been running your sled with the bolt flipped as in the picture?
I am looking at my sled and thinking it shouldn't make any difference....
I wanted someone else to try it and run a few miles to see if it sheared or rattled out or anything like that....what is the status on that bolt?

 

[cannondale27]

Yes sir good to go.Just be sure to Loctite it well.Planning on doing a frontend removal again to install UP's Bushings and change filter so will find out shortly if the bolt flip actually saves time.Let you know.

 

[80h4thephaze]

First time it goes like this.Remove the safety clip and unbolt the steering arm here.Notice the punch marks.One on arm and one on splined shaft.They need to go back aligned so your bars stay aligned.

When updating to upbushmans kit, i carved the old bushings to fit under the arm like washers to create a tight fit.

 

[cannondale27]

Last time I was in a hurry and didnt take pics.I did this time.YES flipping that bolt allows front end removal Without removing headlight and airbox.Its easy!I took it off this time for major bushing replacement.Almost all of them.Notice what ISN'T removed.I may even adjust toe with it off!

 

[yamahas]

I am about to remove my front end to do UP and ulmer's bushings. I don't need to do an oil change so can i skip the step of removing the hose from the bottom of the oil tank? I don't want to loose the oil i have in there.

Thanks

 

[Jeffz]

You have to remove the hose to get the front sub-frame off. Either drain the oil into a CLEAN container or bite the bullet and go buy some new oil. I would suggest the latter.

 

[yamahas]

Thanks Jeffz. I was hoping i wouldn't have to but might as well just get new oil... only has about 100kms and was fresh at the beginning of the season.

Il keep the old filter. it was changed at the same time as the oil.

thanks again

 

[yamahas]

Does anyone know the torque for the bolts that secure the front end to the rest of the sled?

I cant seem to find them.

 

[cannondale27]

I have never found them either.Spent hrs searching.I always use Loctite and tighten by hand.Tight.I did find spec for the frame that supports steering column and that has some bolts into the aluminum same size as mainframe.25Nm or 18Ft.Lb sorry for not being definitive but it just seems to not exist?

 

[yamahas]

Thanks a lot cannondale, this thread saved me a lot of time and money. Much appreciated.

 

[sparkysask]

does anyone have pictures of the mysterious green line and protrusions?



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