Oil change,Front frame removal and starter removal Pics

[Boondockerbrad]

To fix potential starter failure you Loctite these bolts.ONE AT a TIME.If starter has already failed there is a slight green line and two little protrusions to line it back up and it should work then.Test it on battery before installing if it was failed.Use 272 or 262 Loctite.On these bolts and every other bolt and screw you removed.272 is permanent and even heat wont let it loose so maybe just starter bolts with that.Torquing would be advisable also.

Can you by chance poat a pic of the grren mark thts on the starter so i know what im looking for i found the raised hash mark but cant see a green mark soo im assuming mine turned and this is probably my issue i ll find out more wen i take the front half of my sled apart

 

[Cold Concrete]

I don't have a pic of the starter after I put it back together, however, here's a pic of the starter on the sled. It's obvious that one of the bolts backed out. It will be very apparent where the green line is on the casing once you pull the starter out. You'll have to wiggle it back and forth to get it out of the engine case. The case on my starter rotated 180 degrees. I pulled both bolts, took the one end of the starter off and carefully turned the case back to the proper alignment. Don't lose the washer that's inside the starter on the back side of the bearing. I then tested proper function on the battery by using a screwdriver to bridge the negative terminal and the case. Please watch for those 2 bolts when you disassemble your sled. It's got me stumped as to where they belong!

 

[Boondockerbrad]

Yeah

I don't have a pic of the starter after I put it back together, however, here's a pic of the starter on the sled. It's obvious that one of the bolts backed out. It will be very apparent where the green line is on the casing once you pull the starter out. You'll have to wiggle it back and forth to get it out of the engine case. The case on my starter rotated 180 degrees. I pulled both bolts, took the one end of the starter off and carefully turned the case back to the proper alignment. Don't lose the washer that's inside the starter on the back side of the bearing. I then tested proper function on the battery by using a screwdriver to bridge the negative terminal and the case. Please watch for those 2 bolts when you disassemble your sled. It's got me stumped as to where they belong!

I can only see the one bolt and it seems tight definitelynot backed out like the one in ur pic but i can see one hash mark on the end cap of starter but no green marking is it still possible tht mine turned

 

[cannondale27]

Can you by chance poat a pic of the grren mark thts on the starter so i know what im looking for i found the raised hash mark but cant see a green mark soo im assuming mine turned and this is probably my issue i ll find out more wen i take the front half of my sled apart

There is pics of the green Mark all over this thread including one on page 5 by JP10. Look. You also have not said what the issue is your having with your Phazer. Let's start there.

 

[2stroken]

A few questions
So one of the pics it looks like the green line is about 90 degrees out of alignment?
After draining the oil, pulling the screen, filter etc, any special priming of the system needed?
When engaging the starter, it sounds like it just spins. I have the front ripped off, and plan to pull starter in the morning. What suggestion for bench testing it? Which direction should it spin?

 

[cannondale27]

I believe it would rotate counterclockwise but too tired to think straight. Kid just creamed a deer with her truck and I am trying to get sled ready for weekend. Anyway if marks arent lined up line them up and you will be all set.

 

[2stroken]

Any oil system priming techniques? Or just put in recommended amount and start it up?

 

[cannondale27]

Any oil system priming techniques? Or just put in recommended amount and start it up?

There is a procedure but I only used once and have never done it again.Is a small screw be exhaust outlets on head. you loosen that and start engine running till oil comes out of there steady. Personally I wouldnt bother just fill oil tank partially start,run till warm,shutoff and after a minute recheck oil and fill to full mark.

 

[2stroken]

There is a procedure but I only used once and have never done it again.Is a small screw be exhaust outlets on head. you loosen that and start engine running till oil comes out of there steady. Personally I wouldnt bother just fill oil tank partially start,run till warm,shutoff and after a minute recheck oil and fill to full mark.

Thanks, I guess I should clarify if with removal of the screen, if a prime is suggested. I like what you are saying, will fill the canister, let it sit for a bit for some air to move around, and then fire it up.

 

[cannondale27]

Just dont overfill. Thats why I dont fill full cap right away.

 

[2stroken]

Just dont overfill. Thats why I dont fill full cap right away.

Thanks for the help, I know I drained at least 2.5 quarts out.

 

[2stroken]

Well job complete. The whirling sound I was hearing was the center section of the starter. I found the green line(scribed it for future) rotated it back, loctited/tightened it up. Also put in part of UPbushmans steering bushings(only did the pieces on the steering rods). Wasn't too bad of a job, probably 7 hours, but I had a few setbacks. I also noticed several abrasions on the positive wire feeding the starter. Lots of wraps with some 3M ssuper 88 in those areas.

 

[cannondale27]

Well job complete. The whirling sound I was hearing was the center section of the starter. I found the green line(scribed it for future) rotated it back, loctited/tightened it up. Also put in part of UPbushmans steering bushings(only did the pieces on the steering rods). Wasn't too bad of a job, probably 7 hours, but I had a few setbacks. I also noticed several abrasions on the positive wire feeding the starter. Lots of wraps with some 3M ssuper 88 in those areas.

Thats Awesome! Glad its fixed. Since my Phazer is seeing light duty now with the kids who both work and dont ride as much as I used to on it. I remove the front frame every 3 years and make it worth it. Filter gets changed and replace any steering components that are bagged out. I do this in spring and write the date on oil tank because I guarantee I wont remember. So just change oil yearly. Thats it. Bet next time it will be under 5hrs.

 

[Mr Mud and Snow]

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[/IMG] First post on the forum hello from Canada Big thanks to the forum and cannondale27 for post instructions on how to remove subframe.
Bought a 2008 rtx phazer that was throwing a #30 code. Brake lever and emergency stop button were broken which led me to believe that it was a roll over. Read up on some of the other posts concerning the issue with no success trying to pressurize the oil tank with compressed air. Also tried using a suction device on outlet oil line...nothing. Frustrating. Should have just hooked up an oil pressure tester right away. Thankfully being the self-motivated determine guy I am decided to rip off the subframe/oil pan after finding these instructions on this post. On top of dealerships beening swamped with sleds for pre-season servicing.
Well, found out that the oil pump gear driven shaft was broken. That explains a lot! Just ordered one from Alberta as Yamaha is all sold out and on back order. Going to be doing Loctite starter fix while everything is off.
Should I be replacing o-rings on the oil pump?
Thanks for the knowledge and becoming a member on this site.

 

[cannondale27]

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[/IMG] First post on the forum hello from Canada Big thanks to the forum and cannondale27 for post instructions on how to remove subframe.
Bought a 2008 rtx phazer that was throwing a #30 code. Brake lever and emergency stop button were broken which led me to believe that it was a roll over. Read up on some of the other posts concerning the issue with no success trying to pressurize the oil tank with compressed air. Also tried using a suction device on outlet oil line...nothing. Frustrating. Should have just hooked up an oil pressure tester right away. Thankfully being the self-motivated determine guy I am decided to rip off the subframe/oil pan after finding these instructions on this post. On top of dealerships beening swamped with sleds for pre-season servicing.
Well, found out that the oil pump gear driven shaft was broken. That explains a lot! Just ordered one from Alberta as Yamaha is all sold out and on back order. Going to be doing Loctite starter fix while everything is off.
Should I be replacing o-rings on the oil pump?
Thanks for the knowledge and becoming a member on this site.

Welcome! Good to hear the info is still being used. Are you going to check the bearings while in there?