eric did you almost have to bottom the tie rods to get semi straight.? i have almost no adjustment left, thimking about machining 10 to 15 mm off. also did you get your bushings from ulmer?
glad to hear shes not bent. i was worried when i did mine after seeing pics of rotax,s project.
is this park brake delete on mountain performances web site
glad to hear shes not bent. i was worried when i did mine after seeing pics of rotax,s project.
is this park brake delete on mountain performances web site
Well I've been weighing every part I have taken off or replaced on a digital scale (very accurate) and I'm at 74 lbs taken off. I've done all the standard things like the Timbersled skid, new tunnel (-14), battery etc etc etc. I don't have floats on the front but they only drop 2-3 lbs contrary to what is claimed. I personally can't see getting anywhere near 100lbs off this sled especially with a stock tunnel. I haven't done the rad delete and I won't be any time soon but other than that or the stock headlight I can't see where else much weight can be saved.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
I am shocked your seeing -14 with the tunnel...
lots of places to shave a pound here and there...
I got slapped last time I posted my stuff in thsi thread, Dooboy is pretty territorial
lots of places to shave a pound here and there...
I got slapped last time I posted my stuff in thsi thread, Dooboy is pretty territorial
Rx1M5 said:
I find it interesting that you can make these claims, when you do not possess the parts.
I have a digital scale as well. The stock shocks, swaybar, and associated bolts and brackets weighed in at 12.5 lbs. The Fox floats were exactly 6 lbs. for the pair.
A 6.5 lb difference, although the swaybar has to be counted to achieve this loss. The shocks alone provide for a very disapointing loss, (they weigh about 8.5 lbs. for the pair) however they offer a great increase in handling and ride quaility.
yeah,
when you start thinking sway bars, foot pegs, drop brackets, e-brake delete, skiis, tracks, mufflers, airbox, etc. etc. etc. (FYI= the weight mentioned above = 15+ lbs.)
no one thing is huge weight but together they start adding up to a real weight savings...
Could easily go to a different brake rotor (would saive 1-1.5 lbs.)
but for me the 100 lbs is nearly there, and with my super secret (cant steal dooboys thunder) next install, I will be over the 100lbs savings...to be specific will be at 109lbs. (all measured parts going on, and parts coming off...)
if guys are getting really crazy, you could go with Ti springs in clutches, Ti bolts could easily shave another 20 lbs (spendy but would do it)...and Ti or 4130 Chr Mo sub frame (would shave another 8-12 lbs).
Yes, all spendy stuff, but if you did the above, you could get the MTX down to the levels of an M8 for me, the goal was simple, sub 500lbs...for a 4Stroker, that is more than satisfactory for me...
when you start thinking sway bars, foot pegs, drop brackets, e-brake delete, skiis, tracks, mufflers, airbox, etc. etc. etc. (FYI= the weight mentioned above = 15+ lbs.)
no one thing is huge weight but together they start adding up to a real weight savings...
Could easily go to a different brake rotor (would saive 1-1.5 lbs.)
but for me the 100 lbs is nearly there, and with my super secret (cant steal dooboys thunder) next install, I will be over the 100lbs savings...to be specific will be at 109lbs. (all measured parts going on, and parts coming off...)
if guys are getting really crazy, you could go with Ti springs in clutches, Ti bolts could easily shave another 20 lbs (spendy but would do it)...and Ti or 4130 Chr Mo sub frame (would shave another 8-12 lbs).
Yes, all spendy stuff, but if you did the above, you could get the MTX down to the levels of an M8 for me, the goal was simple, sub 500lbs...for a 4Stroker, that is more than satisfactory for me...
MotoPsycho said:
The sway bar etc is over 3 lbs of the loss which I included in my 74 as I have deleted mine. You can't run any shocks without bolts but hey I included them too. Here is a pic of a stock shock. 4.32 lbs with bolts x 2 = 8.64 lbs - 6 lbs for Floats = 2.64 lbs savings for a pair of Floats. BTW You don't need to posses the parts to know their weight. For the 2-3 lbs like I said they saved in the first place I decided for me they aren't worth the money. I really couldn't care less how the sled handles on a trail so long as I don't go off into the toolies getting to the alpine.
Rx1M5
Attachments
mtdream said:
I hope you are right but I'll put money on the fact that if you put your sled on a hanging scale it won't be 444 lbs dry (553 published dry weight -109). Scott at Diamond S has said the 4130 subframe saves 6 lbs. My drop brackets stayed on the stock tunnel so they got include in that weight loss which then means the Timbersled drops 29 - 30 instead of the advertised 38. I've made sure to not double up on any measurements. My exhaust weighs 3.6 lbs. There is no big loss in any of the tracks out there, most 151-155's are in the 50 lb range give or take a lb. Skiis, next to nothing, and in some cases (Gen II's) weight increase. Like I said before I hope it is possible and you are right but I'm just not seeing it now.
Rx1M5
1st I appologize for jacking yer thread Skidooboy.
Yer absolutely right fella! The ONLY place shocks make ANY difference in ridability is ON THE TRAIL!
"It is better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than open your mouth and remove all doubt".
Rx1M5 said:
Yer absolutely right fella! The ONLY place shocks make ANY difference in ridability is ON THE TRAIL!
"It is better to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than open your mouth and remove all doubt".
Rx1M5 said:
Didja weigh your skid prior to dissaemble and weigh prior to reassemble? mine yielded slightly over 38 pounds saving...Also, here is my 153" Maverick track and my 162 PowerClaw on the scales...didnt do it for loss, just wanted more track, and was happy to see it was a little lighter, but could have been teh dirt on the track that made for the difference...again, it is all small weight saving here and there that ad up...
not trying to get in a pissing match, dont really care...and am confident I dont weight my sleds dry as it means nothing...but am 100% certain I have/will have dropped almost exactly 109 lbs. I am confirmed and acounted for on the 96lbs. right now...
Maverick
PowerClaw
I never weighed the stock skid on the Nytro as it went out the door as soon as it came out but I did weigh the stock skid on my Vector MTN SE and it weighed 68 lbs if I remember right, and it is basically the same skid. My Timbersled skid just weighed with powder coat is 35.32 so I sold myself a little short there so that puts me at 77lbs off still a long way from 109. I'd like to know where I can get another 32 lbs off, maybe you can post an accurate list, no "Misc 10lbs" kinda numbers but every part with the associated weight loss.
The 444 dry number is just for comparisson to Yamahas published weight. Wet fully ready to ride that would translate to roughly 510 lbs if I've done the math right. Check out the weights of these mod sleds in this thread on Snowest.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread ... ght=weight
Rx1M5
The 444 dry number is just for comparisson to Yamahas published weight. Wet fully ready to ride that would translate to roughly 510 lbs if I've done the math right. Check out the weights of these mod sleds in this thread on Snowest.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread ... ght=weight
Rx1M5
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
MotoPsycho said:
If you never get the sled off the ground, then that statement is true, but the stock suspension was best for trails anyways.....
If the sled gets above 5 feet, then suspension upgrades are required
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Stock Nytro MTX with reverse weighs 637lbs full of gas, according to AMSnow.
Published weights are always lies.
Published weights are always lies.
ruffryder said:
Sorry ruffy! It's so hard to throw around backhanded sarcasm on the internet. Nobody can catch it without that inflection in my voice...
Yah I guess you're right WTF di I know about anything.
holy highjacked threads batman!
revdog, yes i had to bottom the inner tie rod ends adjusters out, so i could get an easier adjustment on the outer tie rod ends. it seems with the install of wildchild kit and the timbersled kit combined, you almost have to cut the tie rod shafts to ease the adjustment for the toe of the skis.
and i am still waiting for the ulmer timbersled oilite bushing kit. shouldnt be long now. ski
revdog, yes i had to bottom the inner tie rod ends adjusters out, so i could get an easier adjustment on the outer tie rod ends. it seems with the install of wildchild kit and the timbersled kit combined, you almost have to cut the tie rod shafts to ease the adjustment for the toe of the skis.
and i am still waiting for the ulmer timbersled oilite bushing kit. shouldnt be long now. ski
