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OW40 oil

Beyond oil brands and viscosity....

The MOST important thing is change interval and dilution IMO.

Clean oil will do the best job.

Dan

Here's what i used to do to make sure it's super clean in my Apex that's as strong at 20,000 miles as it was at 2000.
I put Seafoam in oil, ran it on stand & drained.
Then i would put plain oil in with Marvel Mystery Oil & run it then drain. You'd be surprised how dirty it is!
Then i would put on new filter with 0w-30 Amsoil with a couple ounces of Lucas Synthetic Oil Additive.
I put earth magnets on both oil plugs & the filter...........then PITTBull it!
If i was on 3000 miles plus year, i would drain it with fresh oil mid season.

Now that's CLEAN oil!
 
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Here's what i used to do to make sure it's super clean in my Apex that's as strong at 20,000 miles as it was at 2000.
I put Seafood in oil, ran it on stand & drained.
Then i would put plain oil in with Marvel Mystery Oil & run it then drain. You'd be surprised how dirty it is!
Then i would put on new filter with 0w-30 Amsoil with a couple ounces of Lucas Synthetic Oil Additive.
I put earth magnets on both oil plugs & the filter...........then PITTBull it!
If i was on 3000 miles plus year, i would drain it with fresh oil mid season.

Now that's CLEAN oil!

Also I was pointing to how I changed my oil on Winder, vs how most guys do. Removing those lower hoses entirely drained an extra CUP worth of oil out of my Winder. Without the panel removal and hose removal you are not even getting close to all the oil out.

Dan
 
Also I was pointing to how I changed my oil on Winder, vs how most guys do. Removing those lower hoses entirely drained an extra CUP worth of oil out of my Winder. Without the panel removal and hose removal you are not even getting close to all the oil out.

Dan
I drain both hoses without removing the panel. I've never had any luck with rivnuts!
 
I have a ton of pics on a good oil change, Rivnuts for simple panel removal.

Without draining the hoses, you are leaving approx 1 cup full of dirty oil in the system.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-rtx-le-50th-build-thread-rockerdan.149801/page-20#post-1406934

Dan

img_1106-jpg.135939


img_1109-jpg.135941



 
I'd be careful using Lucas oil additive in any engine. Someone had mentioned something about it preventing the anti-foaming additives in oil from working. Did a bit bit of research and this demo shows it with their own demonstrator.


Project farm also did a test with it against STP. Both also had major aeration.


If you use a good quality oil, you don't need an additive.
 
These oil threads crack me up. I wonder if a Yamaha 4 stroke sled engine has every failed because of the oil that was used? You could prob never change the oil on any 4 stroke sled and the engine will still outlast the rest of the sled.
 
You could probably run it on bacon grease and survive (and smell good!).

That was actually done and the engine survived very well:

 
I would never not drain the hoses like Dan does but that’s just me. That said, the oils that are made now are so superior to anything just five years ago I wouldn’t sweat it for those that don’t, like I said previously most of you guys are going get into a new sled by the time you hit 15k smit dont matter
 
I bet most are on to a new sled by 5k miles. So in the end who are you doing all this maintenance for? The next guy? LoL.

I would never not drain the hoses like Dan does but that’s just me. That said, the oils that are made now are so superior to anything just five years ago I wouldn’t sweat it for those that don’t, like I said previously most of you guys are going get into a new sled by the time you hit 15k smit dont matter
 


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