kennyspec
Expert
ok so here is the update....I havnet really worked on the sled all summer but I am getting back into it now. I started on the steering and I have come up with a way to have direct steering.
started out by welding a bolt to a uniball off of my old nytro a arm.
then welded the uniball and bolt to the steering shaft.
the steering post will sit in the factory mount at the bottom of the bulkhead.
view at the top. It makes a bit more sense now of why I made the top tube at an angle. the steering post had to be at this werid angle to clear between the throttlebodies.
I also did a bit more on the cooler. its kinda heavy (9lbs) but I wanted to have enough capacity as I will not be running a front cooler.
the bottom of the cooler has fins to help with the cooling.
started out by welding a bolt to a uniball off of my old nytro a arm.
then welded the uniball and bolt to the steering shaft.
the steering post will sit in the factory mount at the bottom of the bulkhead.
view at the top. It makes a bit more sense now of why I made the top tube at an angle. the steering post had to be at this werid angle to clear between the throttlebodies.
I also did a bit more on the cooler. its kinda heavy (9lbs) but I wanted to have enough capacity as I will not be running a front cooler.
the bottom of the cooler has fins to help with the cooling.
NytroMisfit
Expert
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Looks great look forward to more updates. What great craftsmanship!
kennyspec
Expert
NytroMisfit
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Dumb question. How do you correct that angle in the steering post when you get to the handle bars?
DSimps10
Pro
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I am wondering the same thing as NytroMisfit. I would guess an offset bar mount or cutting the post and welding it straight but i would think this would make the swing un-even from left to right.
kennyspec
Expert
The steering post is 1 1/8 diameter and there will be a 3/4 tube drilled through the top to make a "t" for the riser to clamp on to. Instead of it being a 90 degree angle it will just be at a different angle so that when the sled Is steering forward the t will be parallel to the ground. It may make it a little goofy when the bars are turned all the way right or left but it's not that noticeable at all. I got this steering post idea after seeing tat the iqr sleds run the same setup and the steering doesn't feel goofy at all while turning.
NytroMisfit
Expert
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Cool good to know. Never knew polaris did that with their race IQR's
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Not only the IQR the Viper (and similar Arctic sleds) also has angled steering post with correction in the T-post (not the mountain setup with vertical steering but the other models)
Really nice build. I notice that the front arm on your skid does not have a full length cross tube at the mounting location, eliminating the need for a solid inner rod to run bolts into. I've always thought the solid inner rod is a PITA to remove bolts from because it spins inside the tube of the arm. Did you come up with the idea for that front arm mount or is that an OEM arm? Do the bolts, washers and nuts stay secure? I would think a skid would be much easier to remove/re-install with that front arm. Whoever came up with the idea, it's a clever design.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
its a oem Arctic cat skid
Never owned a cat. I guess that explains why I've never noticed that design before.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
The steering post is 1 1/8 diameter and there will be a 3/4 tube drilled through the top to make a "t" for the riser to clamp on to. Instead of it being a 90 degree angle it will just be at a different angle so that when the sled Is steering forward the t will be parallel to the ground. It may make it a little goofy when the bars are turned all the way right or left but it's not that noticeable at all. I got this steering post idea after seeing tat the iqr sleds run the same setup and the steering doesn't feel goofy at all while turning.
Kenny:
Not sure if you noticed but T-Top tubes are 7/8", same as your handlebars. That will let you run anyone's riser. A 3/4" tube is pretty weak unless you go solid and drill out a small pilot hole to save some weight.
Awesome build btw.
OTM
kennyspec
Expert
Kenny:
Not sure if you noticed but T-Top tubes are 7/8", same as your handlebars. That will let you run anyone's riser. A 3/4" tube is pretty weak unless you go solid and drill out a small pilot hole to save some weight.
Awesome build btw.
OTM
I couldn't remember if it was 3/4 or 7/8. U are right it's 7/8
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