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Removing exhaust

I found this on-line.
Good for 2600 degreesF
IMG_1451.jpg
 

apexgt4life said:
Are you going to factory spec of 18 ftlb which Does not seem like much
Click to expand...
IF flanges are flat and gasket is good, will not leak at 18 ft.lbs. I've seen quite a few muffler flanges that were warped/dimpled where the bolts go due to over-tightening. I have to straighten them before reassembly.
 
I would not use stainless steel unless you first clean up those stock rough threads in that turbo cast iron! And apply that nickel!

Ever have do drill out a SS bolt?
I do not care what type drill bit is used, without the aid of a drill press, it’s gonna take many bits and lots of patience!
 
Motorhead said:
I would not use stainless steel unless you first clean up those stock rough threads in that turbo cast iron! And apply that nickel!

Ever have do drill out a SS bolt?
I do not care what type drill bit is used, without the aid of a drill press, it’s gonna take many bits and lots of patience!
Click to expand...
I have used an endmill to drill out bolts, i find it works better since you dont get a drill point wandering around
 
Kuzzy said:
I have used an endmill to drill out bolts, i find it works better since you dont get a drill point wandering around
Click to expand...
Thanks for that bit of knowledge. I shall try and remember that but hope I never have to drill any SS with a hand drill and bits!

Have tried many different bits ordered through multiple suppliers like McMaster-Carr, and they all dull quick!

Can this endmill be used on a hand drill?
 
Motorhead said:
Thanks for that bit of knowledge. I shall try and remember that but hope I never have to drill any SS with a hand drill and bits!

Have tried many different bits ordered through multiple suppliers like McMaster-Carr, and they all dull quick!

Can this endmill be used on a hand drill?
Click to expand...
As long as it isn't carbide you should be ok. Carbide will chip and be destroyed quickly. You will Want To turn it as fast as possible. holding it straight and feeling what it is doing will be key. Just don't spend too much $ on one in case it doesn't work for you. I have done it, but to be fair, I have allot of experience.

On a side note, I have used a worn endmill and turned it backwards to back out a broken screw.
 
Motorhead said:
I would not use stainless steel unless you first clean up those stock rough threads in that turbo cast iron! And apply that nickel!

Ever have do drill out a SS bolt?
I do not care what type drill bit is used, without the aid of a drill press, it’s gonna take many bits and lots of patience!
Click to expand...
I just pulled the stock bolts and tossed into garbage last night. 2022 sled with lots of anti seize and SS bolts I threaded them through all the way by hand.. This is a new sled and is a must do with NEW SLED.. once you get the threads lubed up good and keep changing bolts(every season) from NEW you will have no issues. The issue with these bolts and this issue is guys are over torqueing the bolts and waiting to apply anti seize till after the miles are piled on.. You have to get to these bolts from new and stay on them with fresh ones and anti seize. Use plenty of heat Before removing them.
 
Last edited:
jonlafon1 said:
I just pulled the stock bolts and tossed into garbage last night. 2022 sled with lots of anti seize and SS bolts I threaded them through all the way by hand.. This is a new sled and is a must do with NEW SLED.. once you get the threads lubed up good and keep changing bolts(every season) from NEW you will have no issues. The issue with these bolts and this issue is guys are over torqueing the bolts and waiting to apply anti seize till after the miles are piled on.. You have to get to these bolts from new.
Click to expand...
What grade ss you use
 
jonlafon1 said:
Grade 5 they are
Click to expand...
Got some and was doing some bench testing to compare. Im second guessing using stainless hardware. Put in vice to see what they would handle and was snapping heads off. Based on my research they are not even designed to handle the recomended torque spec.
Main concern is if one does seize, will not be able to apply any force to remove.

In comparison. Did same testing with factory bolt and it did much better and actually pulled threads out of nut and did not snap

Probably overthinking but going to stick with oem or someing comparable.
 
apexgt4life said:
Got some and was doing some bench testing to compare. Im second guessing using stainless hardware. Put in vice to see what they would handle and was snapping heads off. Based on my research they are not even designed to handle the recomended torque spec.
Main concern is if one does seize, will not be able to apply any force to remove.

In comparison. Did same testing with factory bolt and it did much better and actually pulled threads out of nut and did not snap

Probably overthinking but going to stick with oem or someing comparable.
Click to expand...


I found the stainless bolts to be extremely weak as well. Nothing works better than the stock muffler bolts as long as you can get a torx bit on them properly. With the aftermarket mufflers however it gets hard to fit them in all the holes. I've been using small head (12 pt 10mm wrench style) header bolts in those couple of tight areas, but even they are soft and want to stretch and break the heads off. Need grade 8 style header bolts and they are hard to come by in metric no the grade 5 stuff.
 
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